Wash a new belt in dawn , hit the sheves with scotchbrite, clean em with brake clean, put belt on. To break the belt in I do several 5 mile rides in low taking it easy, after each ride let the belt full cool.

 

I do the scotchbrite, dawn, let dry and install. Do a couple of heat cycles and then let her rip. Basiclly the same thing you're doing Sahara just without the brake clean.

This is the way we were doing them when we raced Superlites in the MTEG series and before that series was around. We were schooled by the distributer of Salsbury clutches and belts. It cleans the manufacturing oils and residues off the sides of the belt.

One Score Offroad World championship and two MTEG championships prove it works. Will they last and work without doing it? Probably. Why do it then? Piece of mind and knowing that when we didn't do it they blew more times than not.

Bottom line, it's your car, do what you want.

 

You want to heat cycle the belt several times, 2 or 3 rides, and then let er rip.

 

I might have been missing out on some good info, yesterday was the first time I ever heard of breaking in a belt. In ten years of the UTV business, owned I guess ten UTV's over the years for business use, racing winning two cross country championships I have never broke a belt in, washed one or even used scotch brite on clutch. Never had a belt issue either. I think we sell about 300 belts a year too.

The closest thing I have done is run a wire wheel over a clutch from bench grinder then cleaning with carb cleaner and most of the time just the cleaner.

Never a issue with any of mine.

I am not saying I am right by no means, I am just trying to figure out why do it?

What is supposed to happen if you don't break it in? I guess I am showing ignorance please clue me in.

Not being a smart butt I want to know.

Todd

 

Todd, I have seen these post before about new belt installation and wondered myself about the break in. I thought I was alone in wondering why, not saying that I'm even close to being correct, I always thought is was what dune riders do. I'm looking forward to some explanations as to the theory.

 

Wash it, install it, pin it

 

I know on the 2012 800 50" Polaris used a softer compound rubber in the belt to save on clutch sheve wear, if the belt was not heat cycled correctly it would easily be burned/ glazed.

 

Never owned one of those!!! lol

 

Glad I could give you a good laugh. For the OP, disregard what i said just put the belt on a hammer down.

 

Thanks for the explanation, I didn't realize there was oil on the surface. I did the heat cycle's just not the cleaning or the Scotch brite pad.

 

I had an EPI belt in my 800 for a few thousand miles. Washed it, installed and drove it like I stole it...sold the rig with it still on it.

 

So when washing the belt just get a bucket and some dawn water and give it a couple dunks and wipe down then spray off with water and let air dry??

 

Why do you wash belt I worked at gates belt never had a coating on them I put mine on cement floor to take moisture out of them a day or two each side

 

Use warm water, dawn and the rough side of a sponge to scrub it with. Rinse the soap off and let it air dry. Once it's completely dry, hit the sides with a quick scrub of a scotchbrite pad. Doesn't need a lot. Put on the car and start in neutral. Run it up and down the shives a few times. Get in and drive it easy until its good and warm ( like 5 minutes or so after engine is up to temp), let it cool, repeat. After that drive it.

I always allow it to warm up a little before I get on the gas. Cold belts don't like big loads.

 

Yes, wash/scrub with a brush, with hot water and dawn, or some other good dish detergent. Rinse with hot water and air dry completely before installation.

Reason for this, is to clean off release agents(oils, silicone, waxes, etc..) from the belt surface it got when being molded.

Also clean the clutch sheaves with brake clean and if needed a fine scotch brite pad.
Blow out the clutch with compressed air, be sure to stand back a little or wear a mask and eye protection because it will surprise you how much rubber dust/debris comes out of your clutch with a high pressure air hose.

If washing/degrease is not done, belt will still be fine.
But, if there is any release agents,oils, grease, debris, etc, on the belt, it could cause belt to slip more then needed, and cause premature wear. Washing will make sure there is no sand, dirt, etc on the belt that will wear, scratch the clutch sheaves, or maybe get into the clutch itself and cause unneeded wear.

For your on board tool box, keep spare belt in a big zip lock baggy to keep it clean. Putting on a mud/sand covered belt will get you out of the woods, but can't do your clutch any long term favors...

Wash it if you can, it can't hurt.

jmo

 

I have never seen or heard of anyone doing this till I came to this forum.
I have never done it and never will.
I am not convinced.

Doug

 

That's fine if you don't believe it but all the people I have talked to recommend it. I would rather take precaution then have another belt problem in a thousand miles

 

Ya the factory service-manual says to break the belt in gently and at lower-speeds for ten (10) hours, but what does the factory know? Right?......LOL.

Cheers

 

Also what is the best way to break it in? Just slow driving in high gear for 10 hours?

Imo, just take it a little easy for the first tank or 2 of gas. Then drive as you normally would.
After 100-200 miles or so, belt should take a 'set' and be stretched to its normal working length and profile.

Even if the clutch/belt alignment is good, and everything is perfect, sometimes after installing a new belt, the tranny grinds when shifting.
You can chase this problem for a few tanks of gas or just drive it and shift when engine is off, or leave it in gear when starting.
In a little while your belt will be 'broken in'(stretched and taken a set) and no longer keep the secondary spinning, stopping the dreaded grind.

jmo

 

opcorn:

So how many in this thread have pulled the bolts on the rear hubs on the outer arm and greased the bushings ? The manual doesn't say anything about doing that either.

:rofl3:

 

opcorn:

So how many in this thread have pulled the bolts on the rear hubs on the outer arm and greased the bushings? The manual doesn't say anything about doing that either.:rofl3:

I have, once, and while I had the rear hubs disassembled, I went ahead and installed grease-zerks in them; haven't had the bushings out since and they're still tight.......

Cheers

 

This roller on the secondary has a flat spot. Is this going to affect the clutching?

 

Yes it can...need to fix that...

 

If your roller has a flat spot it has now become a guide. Can you spin it with your fingers? Something has frozen it up if it's not turning.

 

I broke mine in by a few footbraking launches in the driveway in low. 3,000 miles later still looks like new.

 

BEWARE: Just read my can of carb. cleaner and it has a residual lubrication component! Quote "leaves a lubricating film to protect moving parts". This was in tiny little print on the side of the can. I was going to use it to clean my primary and secondary clutch sheave surfaces, drive shaft taper and such. Switched to acetone. Tx Bri

 

We now use brake clean with no issues

Todd

 

Who has the patience to putt around for 100 miles

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

I think I'm going to try a dishwasher cycle. I have been told to do that to clean the belts. Not sure. Broke a belt after 140 miles with an about 80 mile break in.

 

I have an inline cooling fan I bought from Hunterworks. Does anyone have information on how effective they are at keeping belts cooler? I have a 2017 XP1000. THANKS

 

Random place to post that... a 4 year old thread in the section for a different machine... on a barely semi relevant thread

 

Yeah, realized that after the fact. But felt it was related in that the thread is addressing belt life. Thanks

 

Acetone to clean clutch. No residue. Gates new belts are dry and clean, no release agent like older belts. If it doesn’t feel or look oily you don’t need to wash.