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What Oil and Filter do you use?

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5.8K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Storx  
#1 ·
Hey All,

New RS1 owner, just picked up a used RS1 w/ 1034m and 104hours. So i want to do all the maintenance on it, even tho the previous owner stated he does a oil change on it after every 3rd ride...

I saw you can get the polaris kit for $47, but i typically use amsoil on my vehicles and their kit with 2.5qts of 5W-50 Synthetic ATV/UTV Engine Oil and WIX filter is only $36.

657942


Just curious what others use..
 
#2 ·
 
#8 ·
Glad to help! The red letters are for marketing. Damn.....Awesome find at you local Napa dealer! I will check them out for my next purchase.

I worked in the oil industry and still read monthly updates and articles. Although you can substitute different viscosities it is important to keep in mind that all engines regardless of type are highly engineered products. Development of modern engines are complex and engineered for multiple systems to work together. Without going into too much detail, oil is a engineered product that is important to use as required by the manufacture. My recommendation is to always follow manufactures recommendations when possible. I would not recommend the 0-50 as it will most likely leave the engine starved for oil on startup, although it may take time and be of no consequence over the life if the engine. Why 5-50? When started, a cold engine requires immediate lubrication and at a certain flow rate. As the engine warms up and the oil viscosity changes to a thicker weight it slows the flow maximizing lubrication properties along with a host of other duties such as acid reduction from combustion byproduct etc. Why Mobile One? Mobile one is the gold standard that all oil blenders aspire to. It really depends on the blender on how good their product is. Mobile One uses a Group 4 base oil, Group 4 base oil is the only base oil suitable for a true synthetic oil. However, Many manufactures are using Group 3 base oil and calling it a full synthetic. The jury is still out on whether Group 3 base oil meets the requirements and is still being debated. Never buy Semi Synthetic oil, it only contains 10% or less of full synthetic oil and really offers no benefit over the increased cost. Everyone has preferences and there are a lot of excellent blenders in the market. As with anything you buy educate yourself and make an informed decision on what works best for you. For anyone interested I highly recommend Lubesngreases.com it is a great monthly to keep you abreast of our ever changing world and oil. I hope this was not too much information and will help you make informed decisions.

Fun Fact. Modern engine oils changes viscosity from 5 weight to 50 weight because of plastic, as the plastic heats up and expands it makes the oil more viscous. we would not have multiple weight oils without plastic.
 
#9 ·
It's one mans opinion of course, but I believe you're giving Mobile yesterdays credit that's no longer due. Mind you use it too, but today Redline, and then Amsoil, hold the high ground on Group IV synthetics. IMO.

I agree Mobile 1 used to use a group IV. They've long since retired from that committment, and their product prices reflect that. Reading an SDS can be informative too. The last one I looked at, the M1 advanced 5W-50 discussed herein, seemed to suggest something like a 5% group IV base.

You can also see a substantial difference in the viscosity performances. My larger oil threads have those tables, so you can look for yourselves.

Ya'll may reach other conclusions of course, so feel free.

BTW, I email Mobile for more detailed viscosity info on the 5W-50, and I"ll update those tables when/if I get those answers.

Bottom line:
The mobile is a fine choice, change it somewhat often, hit it with some extra ZDDP, live long and prosper. If you want the best oil at any cost the Amsoil is the best I've looked at carefully.

Racing oils:
Not best idea anyway. Generally low detergents if nothing else, and expensive for what you get for another. Better you put your money into put air/oil filters a shorter OCI, and even the Amsoil.
 
#11 ·
Racing oils:
Not best idea anyway. Generally low detergents if nothing else, and expensive for what you get for another. Better you put your money into put air/oil filters a shorter OCI, and even the Amsoil.
I kept up with oil sampling on the 300v with my street driven track car and my high performance street cars. It has plenty of detergents to be used as a street oil.

These machines operate at 5k+ RPM... That's what my track car does, so I wouldn't run anything but a race oil in them, especially since I drive them that way.
 
#10 ·
Both Redline and Amsoil blends an excellent product!

If you really think about it, no one will reap the benefits of any of these oils regardless of brand due to multiple reasons. Most people want the peace of mind they are doing the best they can to maintain their vehicles. Where the true importance of a managed oil program works is on commercial applications where cost per hour or cost per mile is calculated into profit. I worked for a blender that produced John Deere O.E. oil. It was blended to their engineering specifications. Polaris does the same using a blender to produce their proprietary product and their oil should represent the best oil for their products. Is it? Who knows since they do not share their proprietary information. All major manufactures make a product to work across a broad range of specifications and it is up to the individual to decide the best product for the return on investment. For me that is Mobile One, the lower cost works for my return on investment for the life of my machines engine.

Mobile oil products, the industry is ever evolving to meet manufactures demands and a world market. Licensing 0w oils took years and the process is ongoing for new products auto makers demand. I had read Mobile may be moving more to group 3 base oils but have not confirmed it. I know you know this but for the sake of other readers I will mention that Synthetic oil is not man made, It is oil that is refined to meet engineered specifications. Everything in our modern world touches oil, we are truly screwed when we run out. I am sure they will have a substitute as they are working on it now, the future will be interesting. Please make sure to recycle used oil!

As for adding ZDDP, Reports I have read indicate it will reduce wear and is needed in pre 1970 engines. Wear reduction was in the 50 to 100 thousands of an inch and in normal consumer applications was not beneficial in extending expected engine life. My opinion is add it if you are going to keep your vehicle until it is no longer viable and ready for the junk yard. If you are like me and will trade in at some point for a newer machine the cost overrides the return on investment. I do not recommend using it in any vehicle with a catalytic converter as it may damage it. Also, as with any chemical we combust and expel in exhaust it enters the environment, ZDDP was phased out due to toxicity concerns, however, you can still see trace amounts in modern oils. Although ZDDP is an excellent product to reduce engine wear, modern engines are designed to reduce the wear ZDDP prevented and it is really no longer needed with the exception of commercial diesel engines. I am curious, have you been able to find the formulary information on Polaris oil and if so how much zinc are they using?

Thank you for posting your information on oil etc. the more we can inform people to think critically and make informed decisions is a win win! Very good information on the racing oil!
 
#12 ·
Your call my friend, and it does sound like you've got it well in hand. Not sure I think 5K rpm all that high, but I've not looked at the piston speed.

FWIW, it Motul was easier to buy I'd still use it. I suppose I should put it up there with Amsoil and Redline, but damn at least in may area nobody sells it, so it just got too f'n expensive.


BTW, I had a '96 sho myself. Loved the thing. I've had a fair number of vehicles and the SHO is, to this date, one of my favorites. Way more car then most people knew.
 
#13 ·
5k is a minimum RPM while in use, outside of idle. I'm usually 7k+. I buy Motul just like I buy most things these day... A 5 pack on Amazon is pretty easy to get in a couple of days. Price wise, I don't find it any more expensive than any similar oil.

I haven't owned a SHO in years, but I still tune the fastest SHO to ever exist...

You can also catch us on Netflix's Fastest Car season 2. :)