[dafish]

This post updated 7/14/21

Disclaimer:
This summary is written for those that ask me “ what should I use, and I don’t want to read why”, both online and IRL. I’m hopeful this helps us all. It is, however, only one man’s opinions.

Break-In Steps:
Immediately:
Replace the stock air filter with the Donaldson Nano filter
Follow all other factory break in guidance.

25 Hours:
Replace the engine oil with whatever you elect from the below (wait for it)
Change the front differential fluid. See below.
Change the transmission or rear differential fluid. What to use varies by machine. See below.

Ongoing:
Air Filter:

Replace when it’s full on filthy, or when performance suffers. Not until. It’s actually better for your engine!​

Lubrication Intervals:
I suggest <40 hours for engine oil changes.

Personally I use a great oil filter and change every other OCI.​

I think you follow the manual for front and rear diff changes.
Why not hit it with a grease gun (follow the manual) each winter?

Engine Oil:
Poo oil is alledged to be poor, although VOA's I've seen suggest its OK, just not great. I know nothing of the ultra expensive PS-4 Extreme. Still, it's easy to find better oils:

Beyond that:
All but turbo, and even the turbo if the engine itself is below 32f at start-up:

Rotella T-6 5W-40. (Optional – add 1 oz Rislone ZDDP additive per oil change)​

Turbo’s when the engine itself is above freezing, or anything running in extreme heat conditions (100f+ambient, high altitude, etc)

Mobile 1 Advanced 15W-50 (optional – 1 oz’s total Rislone ZDDP per change)​

Pro tips:

1. If you're buying oil, as I do in the M1, in 5 qt containers, if you buy one extra quart you've exactly two oil changes. (2.75qt in a turbo anyway...) Just saying.
2. ZDDP amount isn't critical. 1-3oz per oil change is fine, it's probably over-kill anyway.

Oil Filter:
Prior to 2019

Fram UltraGuard XG7317. TG7317 is next up and probably fine, and then Wix 51356/51357 twins (the latter has anti-drain back in inlet and outlet) or the Napa private label clones 1356/1357. I’ve no reason to denigrate the Poo factory filter, but in that the standard engine oil and air filter aren’t impressive I’m not inclined to be charitable, and I’m certainly not going out of my way to go buy one.​

2019 and After:

Poo added an oil spill guard on at least some models, and that made space a little tight. If that's your situation and/or you can't fit the 7317 then use the 6607, the next shorter model. (XG or TG6607)​

​

Yes, I know Fram's orange filters have a bad reputation. That has nothing to do with these filters. These are as good as can be had. The top of the line.

Front Diff:

Nothing wrong with Polaris’s Demand Drive fluid, but I prefer Amsoil’s ATH as it covers a wider cold operating range. Otherwise Amsoil’s AUFDQT-EA next, and failing those any John Deere J-20D Hydraulic fluid or equivalent is fine.​

Rear Diff/Tranny:

I feel like AGL is a compromise here and do not recommend it. As a general purpose all-temperature replacement I suggest Motul Gear 300 - 105777.​

Sidebar comment: If you don't mind the cost, and are going to stick to OCI below 40 hours, the Amsoil 5W-50 UTV engine oil is as good as it gets. Mind you at almost $15 a quart I personally don't advocate for it. If we had bigger sumps and didn't suffer from viscosity dilution from the injectors that would be a different thing.​

And let's keep in mind all these oils are worlds better than Poo's factory, so how much overkill does one need?

​

Reference posts that dig deeper into this:
Engine Oil Thoughts: What To Use, When, And Why
AGL Alternatives
Polaris Demand Drive Fluid Alternatives – A Definitive...

 

[dafish]

Why did I change oil filter direction?

In years past I considered Purolator the absolute top of the heap oil filter. When Mann Hummel bought them they screwed their product and QC up and the dreaded media tearing resulted. MH has to date, nearly ten years later, found it more profitable to keep the profits and live with the fall-out of the few that know better. My backup had always been Wix, and so I quickly switched over (save for hi RPM powersports, where I use K&N. For the moment).

However, I’ve spent some time considering engine filtration (mostly air), and I’ve been forced to evaluate what efficiency level I seek, and at what cost (power, convenience, dollars). That led to the surprising leaning that Fram has risen from the “Orange-Can-Of-Death” and now also (they still make some crap) offer some pretty good filters. Filters that meet the 99% filtration rate of my once beloved Purolater and meet the quality and construction of the Wix (Frams Ultra series). They also make one that is quite probably close enough in quality in the Tough Guard series.

That undermined the Wix. It’s at best 99% efficient at 23 microns, and at 20um, where the Purolater and Frame are rated, its was at 95%. Lower than I want. Even more importantly, I was finding it a hassle and a cost to buy the Wix. They weren’t at Wally world nor my local Farm & Cheat, so… But the Fram is at both, and discounted enough to be practical. The final stake? I just learned Mann Hammel bought Wix a few years ago.

OK, I’m not too bright, but better filtration, more reliable construction, easier to find, and cheaper? And I’m not funding MH? OK, sold.

Now in deference to Roger Lee, a fellow member, I’d be remiss to not mention he feels more attention should be paid to bypass pressure rating than I do. He prefers to see 14-18 PSI. If that’s your cup of tea than I can suggest staying with the Poo oil filter (of unknown pressure rating), accepting the risk of the Purolater and media tears (it’s rated at 14-18, his preference), or once again the Fram at 13. I sort of think he’s a long time fan of Purolater and uses the bypass spec as a way to specify Purolater, but perhaps you, or he, can find some support of a select bypass pressure range. I cannot. In fact, as a generalization, I consider it largely insignificant. But then I run synthetic oils, change filters often, and use oils that flow appropriate to the ambient temperature too, so…

I should also mention I don’t buy-into the boutique brand oil filters like K&N, RP, Mobile 1, etc. Last I knew these were all made by champion labs and not particularly better filters so… Worse, I just never seem to see any actual peformance specs on them, and that just bugs me. On the other hand I have no reason to suggest they aren't a good choice either, and as I've mentioned, run a K&N in my Vmax, so..

BTW, Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator, as are Bosch.

So there you go, why I've switched brands....

 

[sandblster]

Well, this is one persons opinion. My experience would lead to different oils and filter, etc.

 

[89sandman]

Just change them on a regular basis and don't get so hung up on what special brand you use.

 

[RWB713]

Well, this is one persons opinion. My experience would lead to different oils and filter, etc.

It might be an opinion, but it's a very fact based opinion based on more research than 95% of people care to even think about lol, and a great thread to link to for:

“ what should I use, and I don’t want to read why”

 

[RWB713]

I should also mention I don’t buy-into the boutique brand oil filters like K&N, Mobile 1, etc. Last I knew these were all made by champion labs and not particularly better filters, so… BTW, Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator, as are Bosch.

So there you go, why I've switched brands....

I currently run a K&N (204-1), because that's what Weller built their sandwich plate to run with, and I like the hex nut on the bottom, but you guys' conversation sparked me to write an e-mail about a few specifics to K&N....no response to date, and that was about a week ago. So with your opinion/research, and they're lack of response, I've almost been convinced to change...but that would require I do research on oil filters to find one that specifically works with the sandwich plate, and there is no direct Fram UG/TG cross ref for the 204-1, a Wix 51356 does, which crosses to an XG7317 as you know, but the K&N has an O-ring seal and a slightly different OD/ID, and the K&N is shorter, and has to be to work with the sandwich plate...so I'm not sure there's is a solution....or one that I want to make the effort to find....I'll probably continue to run the K&N on the "ignorance is bliss" principal lol...I'm done rambling now.

 

[RWB713]

To follow up on the above.... I finally received a response from K&N, I don't have the initial message I sent since I sent it through their website, but I inquired about the specifics referred to in this thread, bypass pressure, micron filtering data, and further filter media specifics, this was their response:

"Hello,

We apologize for the delay in response as we are currently experiencing a high volume of emails; we thank you for your patience and apologize for the inconvenience. At this time the information is not available. However, each K&N oil filter is designed to meet or surpass the factory requirements of the vehicle engine manufacturer.

If you have any additional questions about our oil filters not related to the micron test data, please feel free to reply to this e-mail or contact our customer service department at 800-858-3333 and a customer service representative will be happy to assist you."

That's a CSR desk response if I ever saw one lol

 

[mozart]

It might be an opinion, but it's a very fact based opinion based on more research than 95% of people care to even think about lol, and a great thread to link to for:

well said!!

 

[Duneflyer]

Rear Diff/Tranny:
I feel like AGL is a compromise here and do not recommend it.

Anything with chain drive transmissions or a and separate fine drive fluid:​

Amsoil’s #MTF or Pennzoil’s Synchromesh​

1000’s and related with integrated final drive and transmission sumps, and chain drive reverse:​

I think Mopar’s Synthetic 70W80 gear oil is perfect. part number 68227765AA.​

Turbo’s and others with integrated final drive and transmission sumps, no chain drive at all, and higher output engines:​

Redlines group IV synthetic 75W90 gear oil, and failing that again the Mopar Synthetic 70W80 gear oil part number 68227765AA.​

​

What if you just had to run one and only one for everything:​

I think you could run the Mopar oil in everything and get away with it. I'm very very tempted to run it in my turbo.​

​

Sidebar comment: If you don't mind the cost, and are going to stick to OCI below 40 hours, the Amsoil 5W-50 UTV engine oil is as good as it gets. Mind you at almost $15 a quart I personally don't advocate for it. If we had bigger sumps and didn't suffer from viscosity dilution from the injectors that would be a different thing.

And let's keep in mind all these oils are worlds better than Poo's factory, so how much overkill does one need?

​

Reference posts that dig deeper into this:
Engine Oil Thoughts: What To Use, When, And Why
Amsoil AGL Alternative Not Safe?
Polaris Demand Drive Fluid Alternatives – A Definitive...

I'm coming up with 2 possible Redline products for my Turbo S trans:

Heavy ShockProof®

Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90

www.redlineoil.com

and

75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil

Most popular Red Line gear oil, with thousands of applications for passenger cars, light trucks, and racing vehicles

www.redlineoil.com

Which one are you referring to?

 

[4x4rider]

I’d go with the regular 75W90. That’s what I use

 

[RWB713]

I'm coming up with 2 possible Redline products for my Turbo S trans:

Heavy ShockProof®

Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90

www.redlineoil.com

and

75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil

Most popular Red Line gear oil, with thousands of applications for passenger cars, light trucks, and racing vehicles

www.redlineoil.com

Which one are you referring to?

He is referring to the GL-5 gear oil

I do run the lightweight shockproof tho

 

[mozart]

when you go to the Redline website and add a polaris vehicle. in this case i had added a 2017 RZR XP4 1000. these are the recommendations
(edit) RBL we posted at the same time. not directed as a reply to your post
(edit 2)
just noticed that it states i have a british version RZR???

 

[ktl5005]

Use all Polaris products here. Change everything every 50 hours. Not an issue. Change regularly and there won’t be a problem

 

[mozart]

not a reply to your post ktl5005 but what i have been looking into.
since my RZR was new (2017 XP4 1000), i had used Polaris oils exclusively. performed my maintenance schedules WELL before they were due, maybe even to an extreme. 2-3 oil changes per season, and changing the trans and diff fluid every year regardless of hours (and i dont ride that much).
yesterday i had done the unthinkable (in my case), used a Fram Tough Guard oil filter and a T6 Synth Shell oil. all for the low low price of $27 where a Polaris Extreme oil kit would have been $47.
predominantly based on recommendations from the forum.
my thoughts are, IF i can get BETTER performance from non-branded compatible Polaris oils and parts, then why not.... and save a few $$ in the meantime it would be worth it.

 

[Duneflyer]

He is referring to the GL-5 gear oil

I do run the lightweight shockproof tho

Thanks. Isn't the Lightweight Shockproof a bit of overkill?

 

[RWB713]

Thanks. Isn't the Lightweight Shockproof a bit of overkill?

Most likely lol

 

[dafish]

Duneflyer:

Sorry, I didn't notice you'd asked. I was referring to the 75-90 GL-5, not the shockproof. I've no objection to the shockproof, I'm just more standards based and given the absence I just don't use it. As I've taken to saying though, once you get to this point we're splitting hairs. These are both exceptional lubricants.

 

[dafish]

So I've changed oil now having used the Mobil 1. Mind you the last few trips have been a little slower, a maybe even lower hours, but OMG, is that oil clean. I attribute this to a few things:

1) Making sure you cool the turbo down at shutdown seems to have made a difference.
2) I think moving to the 50 range M1 has shown dividends too.
3) I showed no evidence of fuel contamination either.

Now that I've moved to the Fram Ultra and also stayed at what is a comparatively (relative to stock size) larger filter/media size, I'm going to do two things:

A) Move to a three trip OCI (essentially 9 days of riding)
B) Change the oil filter (and deal with the flippin oil spill) every other oil change.


BTW, the WIX dual ADBV? It had to have helped, but I still spilled oil.

Finally, somewhere along the long RW has mentioned POO moved to a shorter filter to address turbo heat. ( I hink) Now the man knows more about these than I ever will, but my working assumption is they did that to address not turbo heat, but because they added the plastic "oil spill" shield in 2019 and it took up too much space (height) to continue with the taller filter. I know he also needs a shorter one to deal with his sandwich adapter.

All of which means my oil filter thoughts may not apply to 2019 and up or help RW.

RW, or anybody needing a shorter filter, how does the Fram XG6607 look to you?

FRAM ULTRA® Spin-on Oil Filter HONDA VFR800F Interceptor 2008 800cc | FRAM

FRAM ULTRA® Spin-on Oil Filter HONDA VFR800F Interceptor 2008 800cc

www.fram.com

See ya!

d

 

[SoonerRC]

Interesting reading. Thanks to @dafish for taking the time to provide those recommendations. I don't have the experience to form my own opinions on the RZR. But, the recommendation of a Fram filter is a first. With few exceptions, I've been running Mobil 1 oil and Wix or Napa oil filters in everything I own since forever. Based on website reviews and youtube videos, the Fram filters are a POS. However, I can't say they were "Ultraguard" filters. That may be the difference. I guess when I find something that works, I have a tendency to stick with it. I may need to look into this.

 

[mozart]

when i changed my oil a week ago i had take comparison pics of the fram TG and the stock polaris filters.
.
polari filter

fram TG6607 filter

.
size comparison