The washer stack that shifts great doesn't have good alignment and is causing excessive belt heat? is that what you're saying?

Does the "head" (non threaded end) of the spreader tool screw all the way in until it touches the head of the secondary bolt?

 

The washer stack that shifts great doesn't have good alignment and is causing excessive belt heat? is that what you're saying?

The alignment of the belt pulling to the driver's side of the primary does not seem to change among any combination of washer stack. I haven't had a trip yet but I can see how much it is pulled to the driver's side causing heat

Does the "head" (non threaded end) of the spreader tool screw all the way in until it touches the head of the secondary bolt?

I was lucky enough that someone jacked my tool from the dealer. But the one I bought from Home Depot screws all the way to the point in which it removed the belt prior to the kit. It feels like it's screwed in to the point of resistance.

 

The view of the alignment can change after everything is ran, take it for a short spin after you adjust, Different belts adjust differently as well, but from my experience, you can't use any less than 1 thick and 1 thin or your belt will be too loose and slip like crazy.

If you put a new secondary spring in, it is most likely stiffer and will require a little more effort to spread the clutch, so it might be that it just feels stiffer to you, and you think it's as far open as it can get, when it's actually not.

You may also pull the secondary back apart and verify the helix and spring are set in there correctly and something weird isn't going on in there causing all this

 

Sounds like you need the shafts aligned. Check out Hunterworks website on alignment problem and how to fix.

 

You cant adjust clutches on a turbo, the only real adjustment is the deflection on the secondary which is adjusted by adding/removing washers.

 

I had this exact same thing happen to me, tried everything over and over. I could reinstall the stock helix and it would work perfect, put the new helix back in, and it would go back to spinning the secondary and not shifting. Sent the helix back for a refund. Also my machine slowed down with the clutch kit installed vs the stock clutching (all verified by dragy gps device), tried every combo of weights and springs but was never successful at getting it back to being as fast as the stock clutching. Left it stock...

 

https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/56301/72670

The clearance in the bolt holes allow for some movement.

 

That product you linked doesn't appear to support Turbo clutches.

Fits 2014-15 model XP 1000 Only
Fits 16-19 XP 1000, 1000S, General and 17 only Ranger 1000 18 Ranger 1000 crew only
2016-2019 900 RZR All models
Sets shaft spacing
Sets Alignment
Sets transmission shaft perfectly parallel to crankshaft
Optional lock plate not for the 900 models

Are you referencing moving the aluminum case behind the clutches? Or are you physically moving the shafts on the turbo machine between the transmission and engine?

 

Go the makers website. They offer different shafts. I had that tool and had to make an adjustment. Found the transmission shaft worked, needed a longer bolt than in the kit. It worked enough to make the alignment. The tube in the kit was a close enough fit. If I was getting one for a turbo would order the correct kit.

In watching YouTube videos of racers have seen them using this tool setting up there machines for race day on turbos.

 

https://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-tu...urbo-eps-dynamix-edition/545058-impossible-get-belt-over-primary-hits-case.html

Check this thread, explains it all with pictures. The last of the thread has a detailed explaination.

 

That whole thread is talking about moving the case around to eliminate belt slap, that has nothing to do with aligning the clutches which cannot be done except for moving the secondary clutch laterally with shims.

 

SDI makes the turbo tranny tube, I just do not sell it

The back cover can get warped and cause it and it can get installed in correctly so it is warped

Think of a valve cover on a chevy 350, you don't tighten one corner at a time do you? If you do you warp cover and it leaks, same difference. So you put tool on, have everything loose and tighten in a certain pattern

 

Right, the aluminum clutch housing is what keeps the alignment and there is no adjustablilty in it. If it's warped from the factory, or it warps over time, then you have to replace a defective part, that does not mean its adjustable lol.

The only true adjustment on a turbo is lateral adjustment of the secondary clutch using shims, in that case you would need a tool to verify you are not putting too much lateral from one side or the other.

 

You are not reading my answers at all

 

Boy you are stuck on shims. There were no shims involved. There is enough movement in the bolt holes to allow correct alignment or mis-alignment. And movement of the long bolts through the transmission. I believed the false information about not needing alignment and loosed the cover. The transmission drop a long way. I would have HAD to order an alignment tool IF I did not have the one to align our 17 XP. The transmission shaft is quite different on the turbo. There is no place for shims.

 

You've got a whole 1/16th of an inch in adjustability of the bolt holes, guess you proved me wrong. You win!

 

opcorn:


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I always use the shaft alignment tools when re-installing a motor or transmission. There is plenty enough slop in the holes that hold the trans and motor together to get the tips of the motor shaft and transmission shaft out of alignment by as much as 1/4 inch. They need to be pretty darn exact in order for clutching to work well. The rear aluminum clutch housing has nothing to do with this alignment...and goes back on after the alignment is done. I have seen warped rear clutch housings...and they either re-form to the alignment...or crack when you re-install them.

Hope this helps,

Chris
Bottom Line Racing

 

There is not a lot of slop to adjust alignment and trust me when you go off a couple jumps the tranny will settle down right against the rear Case bolt holes on the tranny side. When we raced the NA cars the SDI plate was the first thing we would install to keep our alignment perfect. Even on the new pro XP it’s the same exact set up with the exception of the 2 rear tranny bolts are now larger but it’s still a tight fit with very little slop.

 

opcorn:

 

We run the SDI stuff as well.