Outer one is real easy... Remove cotter pin then nut holding to knuckle . Then loosen lock nut and unscrew tie rod... Inner is a little harder.. So you replacing inner or outer?

 

Right side.

 

So you replacing inner or outer?

 

I guess the inner part. The rod broke off the threaded part. I need to remove it from the steering box.

 

Well, you really can't replace an inner or outer tie rod...they are one piece.

at the steering box end of the tie rod, both sides, you will see the rubber boot. Remove both clamps and slide the boot off the steering box towards the brake rotor.

The large clamp is PN 7080979 the small clamp is PN 7080978. I believe the small one is reuseable.

After you slide the boot off you will see the ball joint end of the tie rod that threads into the steering box rack. There are two flats on the socket portion of the ball joint. Use a 12 inch crescent wrench and remove it.

When you put the new tie rod in, be sure to use blue locktite on the threads of the socket portion.

You can probably reuse the small clamp. Most replace the large clamp with a good zip tie.

The Polaris parts book doesn't show the tie rods as available as parts, just the entire steering box.

I do have a set of stock tie rods I took off to put on Racer Tech HD tie rods, if you're interested, PM me and we'll see what we can work out.

Pirate

 

I had to replace a bent tie rod today and came across this thread and used it for help. However, I would make one other suggestion based on my experience. Once I got the 12" crescent wrench on the inner tie rod there was not enough room to turn it and I could not make it work. However by using the crescent wrench I did find that the size of the inner tie rod is 1 5/16". I then borrowed an inner tie rod tool from the auto parts store and this fit perfectly and made the job very simple. The loaner tool cost nothing so I would say this is a good way to get the job done.

 

I'm trying to replace a bent tie rod in my '12 XP 900 w/EPS and I don't see the flat spots you guys are talking about on the ball joint end of the tie rod that attaches to the steering box. Any help will be appreciated.

 

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/oem_evo_inner_tie_rod_end_mr403099.jpg

Should look something like that. Picture isn't a RZR tie rod but you get the idea.

 

I see the notches on that one but here are pics of my factory ones, both driver and passenger:

 

Just did this myself. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Polaris might not sell them separately as I was told by my Polaris dealer that they no longer sell them due to liability reasons.
I went through super ATV and was happy. They sold a replacement kit that is heavy duty.

 

Osgood, how did you get the factory tie rod off?

 

I left the steering knuckle on the hub and just unbolted the steering rod from the rack and pinion. It wasn't hard and I'd never done anything like this before.
Mine original snapped about two inches from the knuckle so I just removed the broken thread out of it, and pulled the boot off the rack, and it screwed into the unit. I replaced both sides and it wasn't a bad deal. Keep in mind mine is a '15. I'm wondering if yours being a '12 if it isn't different. In looking at your pics, they are different than what I saw.

 

Damn, was hoping it was similar. Thanks though.

 

When in doubt, buy the replacement part and study it. It likely will tell you how it goes on and just reverse the psychology! Lol.
That's basically what I did to be honest.
Good luck!!

 

Oh I have a replacement part but it's not OEM and I just can't get the stock one off the steering rack. Wondering if anyone had any suggestions.

 

Ill get in on this too. Ive got a 2012 rzr 900xp. looks like I just have to replace the boots on my tie rods. Heavy duty tie rod, forward arched high clearence a arms and hd steering rack had just been put in before I bought mine. Parts have only had maybe a 100 miles put on them, but for what ever reason boots on both sides is cracked on the outside end. Just ordered the replacement boots from super ATV. From what I can tell, looks to be a fairly simple job but then again I always seem to find somekind of issue lol....
Any pointers would b very appreciated. Still new at this.

 

For a couple of years, Polaris used tie rods that didn't have grooves for a wrench. They are just round balls. I take them off using vice grips clamped really tight. They are put on with green loctite, so I heat them up before trying to remove.

 

Great, that's what I needed to know! Seeing all these other posts from people with the grooved inner tie rod ball joints and mine not having that made me a little nervous.

 

How do you get inner tie rod off on a 2013 Polaris Rzr 170?

 

Im doing mine now and I don’t have the flat spots either. How’d you get the tie rod off.

 

Pipe wrench.

Heating the inner end may be needed to loosen the lock tite


-Give it a second... it had to go to space and back first ( Sent from the lifeline that is my iPhone XS Max )

 

Tie rods

why doesn't polaris have part numbers for inner tie rods

 

Re: Tie rods

why doesn't polaris have part numbers for inner tie rods

Because they don't sell them individually, you have to buy the entire rack.

SuperATV HD Tie rods are a cost effective, and stronger replacement option. Many other options available as well

 

Just ordered the SuperATV ones. Thx

 

Apply liberal heat. I used a very powerful heat gun.. and a large pipe wrench. Mine were normal threads

 

How do you tighten the tie rod end bolt (at the wheel end) because it spins in the tie rod ball joint and there is no cotter key hole and the shaft under the boot is smooth (tapered) with no way to stop it from turning when tightening the nut?

 

If there is nothing there to hold it like wrench flats, I use a pipe wrench.

 

Not the steering box end, the wheel tie rod end bolt. I was able to get the nylon lock nut fairly tight with a socket but you could tell they must use a impact gun.

 

Vice grip or channel locks on the edges to get the taper to start holding it from spinning. If you have to use a standard nut first and then remove and switch to the nylock once the taper is seated.