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Well that definitely adds a new demonsion to the issue IMO..I won't start one without the clutch mounted...it's at least 1/2 of the inertial equation on these engines..and I wouldn't not be at all suprised if that was your problem.

Chris, there are several factors included in keeping an engine in forward rotation, esp during start up. If the timing is very close to TDC, then, if the engine begins to crank and immediately hits the compression cycle, there is a very good possibility that it is kicking back and shearing the key. If the cranking begins on the power stroke, exhaust stoke, or intake stroke, then there is time for the crankshaft to get it's mind right and head in the right rotation, and of course maintain that direction. Is your primary clutch in place right now?
I'm an engineer, so I understand the concept behind your point.

No, the Primary is NOT (and has NOT) been in place.

I just don't see anything in the service manual about it being a requirement to be in place.
 
I was in the power equipment business for 25 years, and I learned this at an early age. You cannot start a lawnmower without the blade securely attached. If you do get it started, you will run around the yard for an hour trying to get away from the pain inflicted by shearing off your right nipple!
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I've got the engine out and apart.
I'll start the entire process either later tonight or tomorrow.

Well that definitely adds a new dimension to the issue IMO..I won't start one without the clutch mounted...it's at least 1/2 of the inertial equation on these engines..and I wouldn't not be at all surprised if that was your problem.
This is the 1st I'm hearing about this.... and I'll try it.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I was in the power equipment business for 25 years, and I learned this at an early age. You cannot start a lawnmower without the blade securely attached. If you do get it started, you will run around the yard for an hour trying to get away from the pain inflicted by shearing off your right nipple!
There's your sign............

You made me laugh
 
I wouldn't be suprised at all if that is your problem. At low RPM tw engine needs the inertia to keep it running smoothly through the firing cycle.as RPM increases the need for inertia is decreased since the time between firing is decreased. For example when you lower idle RPM below what the engine is designed for it will begin to run "rough"..the lower the RPM the worse it gets unlit the engine dies..usually with a kick back of the crank. If you were to take that same engine and use a heavier flywheel..or inertial mass to get it through to maintain energy through the compression stroke it would idle at a lower RPM with no issues.
Good call RMR Man..I just ASSumed he had the clutch installed. Even if it isn't 100% the problem it isn't helping.

I've got the engine out and apart.
I'll start the entire process either later tonight or tomorrow.

Well that definitely adds a new dimension to the issue IMO..I won't start one without the clutch mounted...it's at least 1/2 of the inertial equation on these engines..and I wouldn't not be at all surprised if that was your problem.
This is the 1st I'm hearing about this.... and I'll try it.
 
Im not saying that its not bad for the engine but me and I know someone else I know has ran the engine without the clutch on and neither of us had any problems.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Don't see it now but I thought I read this wasn't stock compression? I've not seen a stock RZR engine shear a key because of it but I've seen them not idle without the primary. I don't know if I'd bet the bank on it being his problem but would'nt be surprised either especially if it's not stock compression and/or cam
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
UPDATE: !!!!!
I took the engine apart; the crank and the flywheel still look good.
I put a new woodruff key in and put it back together.
The engine is installed and started right up.

I used an air impact wrench to install the flywheel nut.
It torques out just fine...

I'll know more as the next 10 days go by...
If I can get the entire buggy together tomorrow I'll be riding it.
Otherwise it will probably won't be until I'm at Carolina Adventure World next Thursday.

Thanks for all the help guys
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
I just pulled out if Carolina Adventure World in South Carolina.

She runs great.
No issues with the engine whatsoever.

Then only issue I have is with the throttle cable.
It moves around and affects my idle.

I've set it and checked my TPS voltage half-a-dozen times.

I've got to figure this one out.
But the woodruff key issue is done.

Use an impact wrench and the likelihood of having a problem is minimized.
 
Good deal, glad to hear it worked out. What do you think of Carolina adventure world? I live in Asheville NC and have never been. A few of my buddies have.
 
I was in the power equipment business for 25 years, and I learned this at an early age. You cannot start a lawnmower without the blade securely attached. If you do get it started, you will run around the yard for an hour trying to get away from the pain inflicted by shearing off your right nipple!
hmm you trying to start a lawn mower or a beaver?:cheeseburger:
 
Maybe the taper is off on the crank and doesnt let the mag tighten up good? To me it doesnt seem like the key is to keep it from spinning it seems like it would be more to index the mag so it fires at the right time. Just a theory.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
This was my first thought before reading any comments, and still seems like the most logical........Regardless hope all is well now.....:)

If your using the "harder" (better grade) key that Swingarm sent you it may just be a temporary band-aid fix as it may shear again until correct problem is fixed....Hard to tell when your behind a computer & can't place your hands on it....:popcorn:
 
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