I've got the 5+2F/4+3R setup. The 4+3R is slightly wider than the front 5+2. I believe you'll be slightly narrower in the rear with 5+2R.

 

Is it noticeable? Any regrets?

 

I prefer the added width. No noticeable difference. No regrets.

Most people don't bother with different offsets and just stick with the 5+2 all around.

 

I already ordered the wheels over the weekend 5+2F/ 4+3R in 15x7 Method 305 beadlock’s. I got my shipping confirmation today and started having second thoughts I wouldn’t like the look if I’ll be able to tell it’s wider in the rear than the front. I guess if I don’t like it you’ll see a couple new 4+3’s for sale on here soon.

 

I'm betting you'll be happy with your order.:woot:

 

5/2 on all 4 corners with 1" spacers on the rear....squares the machine right up.

 

I wouldn’t want to have to run any spacers.

 

Does the 5+2 keep the machine at the same width as factory? I really dont want to go any wider

 

Going with a 5+2 all the way around is close, but will make you apprx 2 inches wider in the front and 1 inch wider in the rear. I believe the stock offsets are pretty close to 5+1 in the front and 6.5+1.5 in the rear. I'm not 100% on that, but I believe it's pretty close.

 

The stock offset is 5+1 front and 6.5+1.5 rear and the width is the same front and rear. This means the rear axle is 1” shorter in the rear than the front. When running the same rims front and back, the rear will be 1” narrow unless you use 1” rear spacers which makes the rear 1” wide. A 5+2 front with a 4+3 rear will be 1” wide in the rear. You will hardly be able to see the difference. Both ways look fine. The geometry of 5+1 with 1” spacer and 4+3 is identical. The spacer version is just a little heavier. All of these combinations are 2” wider than stock.

 

Why is the axle length at all related to the offset given the axle doesn't connect to the wheel?

 

I was just looking at getting some new wheels too but don't want to mess up the steering geometry. Wider front wheel width makes the steering twitchy and can make the handling crap.
Since the stock widths are 6" front and 8" rear you need to add or subtract a half inch to each offset number to get the comparable 7" wheel number for the same tire center line (which is what i'm concerned with).
I measured 5+1 on the stock front (6" wheel) and 6.5+1.5 rear (8" wheel)
So if you have a 7" wheel that is 5+2 it would put the tire center the same as the stock 6" wheel width with a 4.5+1.5.
I believe that would make the tire centerline for a 7" wheel with a 5+2 offset 1/2" wider each side over stock for the front.
In the rear the stock 6.5+1.5 rear (8" wheel) would be equivalent to a 7" wheel with a 6+1. So a 5+2 should be a full inch wider each side for the tire center.
Unless I'm missing something the 7" wheels with 5+2 will be 1" wider in the front o.a. and 2" wider in the rear o.a. with regards to the tire centerline.

 

"In the rear the stock 6.5+1.5 rear (8" wheel) would be equivalent to a 7" wheel with a 6+1. So a 5+2 should be a full inch wider each side for the tire center."

Not really. That would actually be 2 inches wider than a 6+1, not the stock 6.5+1.5.

I think you're just over calculating it. Easiest way is to just look at the second offset #. A 5+2 is one more inch of offset than a 6+1, so your front will be 2 inches wider overall. A 5+2 is only 1/2 inch more offset that 6.5+1.5, so your rear would be 1 inch wider overall.

As mentioned, a 5+2 is close enough to stock offset to keep you well within the safe zone for front wheel geometry. (Even though MANY people run 4+3's in all 4 corners with no problems.) That's just for your scrub radius (front wheel geometry). However if you want to keep your front and rear "tracking" similar to stock, then running a 5+2 up front and 4+3 in the rear would work. That's what I did, and it runs fine.

 

Just a thought. A lot of people are using the same size tires all around. If you want to be able to rotate the tires, you will find that difficult If you run different size rims.


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That's why I went with the same 7 inch wide rim all the way around, just with different offsets. I'm running 30x10x14 tires on all 4 corners. So when my rear tires start to wear down, I can just move them to the front rims. Not the most ideal set-up. But it's best compromise I could figure out to have my front and rear track the same, while still being able to get the most out of my tires.

 

I also just measured my stock 17 xpt and at ride height the front max outer tire width is 64 1/4" and back is 65 1/4" so i'm already wider in the back. 5/2 all around is what makes sense to me.

 

Pretty sure tire center line for 6.5+1.5 rear 8" wheel would be equivalent to a 7" wheel with a 6+1. So a 5+2 for a full inch wider each side.

 

I guess I'm just confused on what you're comparing. Are you comparing the overall width of running 5+2's on the rear against a 6+1? Or against the stock 6.5+1.5? If you're talking about the difference from stock, then it's absolutely not a full inch per side. A 5+2 will have 1.5 inches less on the hub side of the rim, and .5 inch more on the outside of the rim. So from the hub face to the outermost part of the rim, you're only adding .5 inch per side (or 1 inch total) on the rear. And I understand what you mean when you compare the tire center line between 6.5+1.5 and a 6+1. But I don't think that's relevant here. The bottom line is this - the "+1.5" of the stock rim represent how much rim is protruding from the face of the hub, which is a fixed point in this equation. And the "+2" represents how much rim is protruding from the same fixed point (face of the hub). I have no idea how that becomes a full inch of difference per side.

 

I went with 5+2 front and 4+3 rear and get a ton of bump steer and feedback through the steering wheel. Never had this issue with 4+3 all the way around but that was in the Dunes. Going to be checking toe. Hopefully that’s the problem.

 

Thats interesting... Can you rotate the tires to see how it feels or are the front and rear different.

On my 900 it had sand tires on wheels that were a full 2" wider that stock in front and 4" in the rear and it would pull all over the place. I never had that problem with the stock wheels and tires.

 

Just to get some numbers I'd be interested in some of everyones overall front and rear outside tire widths to see how things stack up, mention if any suspension stuff is different too.

 

-'18 XPT
-14x7 STI HD9 beadlocks, 5+2 , 30x10x14 Roctanes on all 4 corners
-Shock therapy Stage 4 spring kit
-1" SuperATV spacers on rear

70 1/4" rear, 69 3/4" front

 

Looks good!

 

Well I needed sand tires before new dirt tires and wheels so I got a great deal from rmtn mc on the hd9's with 30" proarmor paddles. Looking forward to shredding some sand at coos bay utv takeover!!
With 14x10 rear, 5/5 and 14x7 front, 5/2 overall widths came out to be 68 front and 73 rear.

When I took of my tires I noticed that my front and rear bighorns are mounted the same on each f/r wheel.. meaning that the right side is backwards. wtf. from the factory.

I wondered why it pulled to the right on hard takeoffs. I'm not positive this is it but it does pull.

 

Also, pro armors are 38# front and 55# rear mounted, compared to stock bh 39# front and 45# rears. Probably gonna need to adjust the AA clutch, but we will see after the stage 3 tune.

 

this post helped me out quite a bit, so I thought I would post my results so maybe it would help someone else make a decision. I wanted to retain the stock XP1000 width, but have bead locks and a slightly bigger tire. the measured stock width of my 2019 XP1000 was 65". this is with stock suspension adjustments.

I ordered STI HD9 5+2 offset, with Maxxis Carnivore 30x14 tires.

the width front and back is now right at 67". so I gained 1' per side and no spacers in the back to make it square. to maintain stock width, I should have went with 6+1's.