Have you checked your battery?

 

I would start by checking the battery and battery terminals. If that's all good, I'd suspect the rectifier first. I don't have a schematic for the 900 so I can't help a lot. It's hard to test a rectifier, but you should be able to ohm the stator. There should be a wire harness coming out of the back engine cover. Usually there are 3 wires thar are all yellow, you can ohm between the yellow wires and should get 10 to 12 ohms on a typical stator. If they ohm good, with the connector unplugged you can start the motor and check the voltage with a multimeter set on ac voltage. Typically it should be between 18 and 50 volts depending on engine rpm. A poor ground could be a possible cause as well. Hopefully someone with a 900 manual can post some actual wire colors and parameters.

 

So it should have between 10-12 ohms on the yellow wires, and that is between any 2 of the 3 wires as long as I get that from all 3 wires?
To check the voltage which wires would I use

 

Here's a manual for the 2011, I've used it on my 2013 and it seems same same.......... They changed in 15 I believe, but it may help.

POLARIS RANGER RZR XP 900 2011 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Polaris Ranger RZR XP 900 2011 service manual online. Ranger RZR XP 900 2011 utility vehicle pdf manual download.

www.manualslib.com

Here's the one for 15

POLARIS 2015 RZR 900 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Polaris 2015 RZR 900 service manual online. 2015 RZR 900 utility vehicle pdf manual download.

www.manualslib.com

I don't think it being an XP would change much to the engine / stator

 

I haven’t checked anything yet, I’ve been doing some reading on several post. Because it also died twice on me when I came to a stop

 

Same wires. Ohm them with the motor off. Check ac voltage with the motor running.

 

So I should have the ac voltage across all 3 like the ohms and it should be across all 3 and doesn’t matter which 2 I put the multimeter on

 

Yes

 

Ok is there a way to check the regulator?
I bought the razor last year and never had any issues, now first ride this year and this happened, I got a set of binders with it and I seen a note that it got new batteries in 2018 so maybe it’s time to change them anyway

 

Not really. If the stator tests good I replace the rectifier. They are generally the weak link.

 

OP states in another thread that he has a dual battery setup and might have an isolator on it now. Unknown how it's wired. Could have both Batts wired together and one is bad. Isolator could be an issue. Oh yeah, according to the other thread it's a 13. Figured I would provide the info that should have been provided in the first post.

 

There is no isolator on it, the batteries are wired together which is why I was asking about the isolator, I thought I did post it was 2013, sorry if I missed that. But yes the batteries are wired together, I can get a picture and post it of how they have it wired, I have a 30 inch led light bar on the roof, has 40 leds, when I turn that light on my volts on my gauge drop 3.0 volts, when my fan kicks on it drops 1 volt and this is when it’s idling. Guess it got 2 new batteries in 2018, I’m gonna pull both batteries and charge to 100%, and going to test the stator

 

It would be interesting to see a picture of the wiring with dual winches, heater, light bar, etc on two batteries wired in parallel. Maybe more un-named accessories to come.

 

The oil, volt gauges aren’t factory I don’t believe, then it has an air/ fuel gauge which is connected to the tuner box behind driver seat, and there is also a small light mounted on back on the roof below the camera , when I go back down I’ll get a few pics of the batteries

 

I have replaced both batteries, vr, stator and at idle it’s reading 12.4-12.6 on gauge.

 

On the off chance that your accessories are putting a drain on the batteries, did you test with just the starting battery connected and nothing else? With all the new parts, it seems you've replaced everything that could be replaced. IF that's the case, I'd start looking at grounding..

FWIW..

 

That’s without running any accessories, i thought about the ground wires also,

 

Completely disconnected, correct ? Not just turned off, nothing other than the starter battery on one battery, and still low voltage ? If so, the grounding is all that's left, check the harnesses too to make sure something hasn't rubbed thru one of the wires, but my money would be on a spurious grounding issue.

 

I haven’t tried with everything disconnected, so unhook everything except main power . There is a lot of wires hooked into the batteries that I’m not sure what they are for

 

I'd disconnect EVERYTHING but the starting battery, there's a good chance you have a drain.

A whole bunch of wires isn't a good thing, buy yourself a fuse box and mark and put each circuit on a fuse, one wire from the fuse box to the battery is all you need. Among other things, fire is possible if the circiuts aren't fused, and it makes troubleshooting a bitch when you don't know what does what, and it sounds like you have about everything known to exist for a SxS hooked to it. Just asking for problems in MY opinion.

this is just one example, there are others..

Amazon.com: 12V Fuse Box 6 Way 12 Volt Fuse Block ATO/ATC with LED Indicator Light Waterproof 24V for Marine Automotive Boat Car Truck : Automotive

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Ok. I’ll try that and see what I got, it was like this when I bought it

 

Well, you can usually always improve on someone's butcher wiring job.. Fuses are to me anyway, a absolute must.

 

I’m not real sure what it goes to, there is a fuse block under the hood, has 4 or 5 spaces in it, one was labeled horn that must have been disabled with the removable steering wheel

 

That would be the factory fuse block, it holds the fuses and relays for the horn, EPS if you have it, the ignition circuit, stuff like that. I'm talking about adding an additional fuse block for your accessories..

 

I do have eps but there isn’t a fuse place for it in this box, I believe this was added, has radio, horn and a few others, clear plastic with a twist lock type thing in center, doesn’t look factory

 

well, my 2013 has the factory box under the front cover.. Guess I figured yours was the same.

 

I mean it doesn’t look factory to me, I’ll get a picture of it

 

Checked on stator today and it’s getting hot on the plug from the stator to the regulator, put voltmeter on connector that goes to the battery and it’s reading 19 volts

 

The plug coming from the stator gets hot(like melting hot) if everything is left plugged in over night it drains the battery, we left the regulator unplugged tonight to check the battery in the morning. Other wires hooked to the battery doesn’t seem to have any draw on them. But from what we tested with the motor running, regulator hooked up to the stator but not hooked to the battery was giving 19 volts

 

The Charging system on the 900xp and likely a bunch of other machines is a simple circuit. Stator, flywheel, regulator, battery. The heat is usually caused by high resistance. Possibly a poor connection between stator and regulator. There have been instances of flywheel issues but I do not recall any verification on that. It would be g a good idea to start from square one and put the machine back to one battery and no accessories as if it came from the factory and start your diagnosis from there. The wiring diagram(s) in the service manual give test procedures.

 

I gave the service manual, how could a flywheel go bad? The old one melted on the same plug,

 

Ok everything is unhooked except what it takes to run it, the gauge is saying 13.? Volts but at the battery it’s saying 15.? Volts on the meter, only running 1 battery now. Wires got up to about 150 degrees after about 30 minutes of driving, regulator is relocated up front under hood now. The regulator shouldn’t be putting out 15.? Volts should it? We put the old stator and vr back in and this is the results

 

Got it to where it’s about 12.6 idling and goes up to about 14 with throttle, I do have voltage on a ground wire that connects to the frame but I have to figure out where the short is now