Sounds like a rod bearing knock...

But my on the internet video troubleshooting is not the best.

jmo

 

sounds like the clutch, but its hard to tell from the video.

 

Like I said, I'm not good with video noises, much better in person...

Does this noise sound the same ???

initially i thought the noise was the clutch since it was coming from my snorkels and when i removed the clutch cover it got louder. Even though my first instinct was saying it sounds like a rod bearing going out but i thought no way because it is a brand new hot rods crank that i just got from crankworks being pinned and welded with only about 5 hours on it. Knocking got worse so i decided to take engine out and there i found a bad rod bearing.

http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetrain/84002-team-overdrive-clutch-noise.html

 

To me it sounds crank related. Generally clutch noise would go away once the primary starts to move and the belt loads onto it. To be sure I would remove the cover and pull the primary off. Re-start the unit and see if the noise is gone. If the noise goes away when the clutch is removed you know it was related to the primary. If it does not go away then you know it is engine related.

Nate
Alba Racing

 

I removed the clutch housing and belt and started this unit. The noise is still there and seems to be coming from the motor, not the Primary clutch.

I had this in the dealership before warranty was up for overheating issue and now it is past the 6 month warranty.

I am trying to get a response from Polaris Industries and am waiting, as it overheated again producing the knock 10 days after the warranty period.

 

You really need to remove the primary clutch to eliminate the clutch being the noise.

 

X 2 as the clutch (primary) can still make noise even without the belt...

 

Here is the video with the Primary Clutch off of the motor.

Does this sound like the connector rod bearings are damaged? :scared2:

If so, can the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft be replaced/repaired?

Yes I have done the search thing!! :rollfinger:

 

Sounds like a crank on its way out. Once the pin and webbings are damaged they are not repairable.

Nate
Alba Racing

 

Here are some pictures of the inside of engine with only 1060 Km on it.

Cylinder Walls
The cross hatch pattern is still visible in both cylinder walls and I can not feel the scratches in the cylinders with my fingernails.

Pistons

Front piston

Rear piston

Piston Tops

There is a small amount of side to side slide of the connecting rods on the crank but the rods do not seem to be able to twist on the crank.

One top ring broke in two when I compressed it with my fingers so I will need at least a set of rings and probably get the cylinder walls diamond honed.

Do you think I can just order 2 piston kits and gaskets or are more parts needed?

 

Anybody have any ideas??

 

It appears to have ingested quite a bit of dirt by looking at the top of the pistons. I would remove a ring from the piston and check ring end gap in the cylinder. You dont have any vertical movement in the rod. If you grab and pull/push up and down you have no play at all???

Nate

 

It appears to have ingested quite a bit of dirt by looking at the top of the pistons. I would remove a ring from the piston and check ring end gap in the cylinder. You don't have any vertical movement in the rod. If you grab and pull/push up and down you have no play at all???
Nate

Thank you for the comment Nate.

The only play of the connecting rods on the crank is a little bit of side to side movement. No other rotational play found.

I am still using a clean Polaris paper air filter and have not found any dirt or dust in the intake tube at dis-assembly time. I lightly grease the part where the filter and the intake tube meet to ensure a dust free fit. I do not blow compressed air into the air cleaner housing to get the dust out. I use a moistened shop cloth instead. All the other intake connections are tight.

One of the top compression rings broke when I compressed it (on the piston) with my fingers after the cylinder was removed. I can not feel any of the scratches with my fingernail on the cylinder wall either.

Is it normal to have a hazy ring of about 1/8" on the bottom outside edge of the lifters? I see that they do not line up fully and overhang the edge of the camshaft when looking down through the block.

The knock started less than two weeks after the 6 month warranty was finished. I had this RZR800 in for an overheating issue about 5-6 weeks before the warranty was finished and the dealer did not repair or move the rusted fan circuit breaker problem at that time. They said they tightened a hose clamp that did not leak or drip before they touched it, so I do not feel confident in taking the engine in to them for repairs or give them any more business if I can help it!

All of your help is greatly appreciated in this manner.

 

Connecting rod bearings have a .0015" big end radial clearance spec. Thats not much. Check for that carefully. Also rotate fully and check for smoothness.
You're only half way there. Split the cases. Check all bearings.
Finish disassemblely of the engine. Clean up the parts and check, measure everything.

To me the top end looks like normal wear and tear... not to bad at all. Top end is diffidently not making your bearing knock noise. Don't dwell on top end, just r&r it as needed. Look farther/harder for your problem...

jmo