send a PM to 34Ford.
I think he was trying to have a circuit made so the switch would work.

 

+1...it isn't as simple as just wiring up a switch..the solenoid doesn't work off of 12v..12v will toast it from what I understrand. AFAIK 34Ford is still working on having the electronics made that are needed to make it work properly with the US ECM. IIRC in the mean time he is running a manual actuator?

 

Not sure why Polaris makes this so hard. Plenty of people would like the option. Would be nice if the would just offer a kit for this.. Maybe even allow you to exchange your ECU for one that would work.

 

Never seen this actuator. Is this a 4 wire relay we are talking about?
Maybe you could post a pic of it, does it have any specs on it ?

 

Here is a pic of my setup

 

Can you take a pic of the sticker on actuator. I can't quite read it all in your above pic, and want to make sure i am seeing 12v on that sticker before i make an recommendation to you on wiring it

 

It says 12 v something/ 3v something..pm 34Ford..I gotta think if it were simple he would have done it..again he has consulted and Electrical Engineer..he even has a website on his turf mode mod..maybe he has missed something simple..it happens..but before this guy smokes his solenoid..wouldn't hurt to talk to 34Ford.

 

Looks like it says "12V Pull/3V Hold" on the solenoid. The 3V hold requirement would explain why a constant 12 would fry it.

Dmax, is that a factory turf mode rear diff?

 

Yes it is OEM Polaris part I ordered it from Babbitts online then brought it to my dealer to have them install it.

 

If that schematic is correct? That power supply / relay combo package they show looks like it would run everything the solenoid needs? 12V in and power for the solenoid out (whatever voltage that is). All you need to do is close a few grounds and the solenoid will energize. You need the power supply/ relay (shown in the schematic above) and the solenoid, I think that's the entire circuit? ECU sends a ground out, that should be easy to emulate with a switch and relay. I think the 12V pull and 3Volt hold is controlled by the power supply / relay package.

 

Hear ya HO...

I don't see 3v
Like to see the whole sticker, or at least copy down whats on it ,exactly as on the sticker.

But if ya think about it, no way its 3v or 3 v hold(never seen any automotive type solenoid that requires 2 different voltages to actuate and hold...nah, no way). Unless Polaris has a transformer some where to convert 12v to 3v because the ecu or speedometer cluster sure wont do that for the amperage required to pull in the plunger. No, its a simple 12v electromagnetic mechanical plunger assembly.

2 ways to wire it

Hard way

Buy the relay I posted above.
Go into the wire diagram for the international model and find what ecu wire connects to the relay.Connect it to relay.
Wire in new switch to relay, rear diff to relay, and power relay from a key switched power source.
This is all assuming the USA model even has this ecu wire...


Easy way

With this set-up you must come to a stop before switching diff in and out of turf mode since we don't know what parameters the ecu decides when switching is ok... probably stopped. The front diff is 4500rpm iirr, but the manual also says not to switch front diff on the fly. Stopped is safe for either diff imo.
Get a switch and wire it directly to 1 of the 2 wires coming from the diff plunger solenoid. Use key switched power. Ground the other wire to the diff solenoid.
Done

 

Trombetta makes many different solenoids which are dual voltage with internal switches to cut off the pull circuit when the solenoid is actuated. They are typically three wire with pull and holding circuits both being fed to the solenoid.

This solenoid may have a short duty cycle at 12V, and rated for continuous duty at 3V.

 

Yes I am very familiar with Trombetta products, there contactors are top notch.
But that type of solenoid is industrial application,not power sports or automotive.
And where would the 3v, with the needed amperage to pull in the plunger, come from? Certainty not the ecu or speedo cluster. Plus its only a 2 wire set up. No 3rd wire tap. Also the wire diagram posted above shows 12v to the relay feeding the solenoid, and an ecu ground, nothing else.The ecu ground probably lets the relay only pull in when the ecu determines its safe for the diff to unlock/lock, probably that means stopped.

Again we can put this all to rest with a simple reading of the sticker.
My bet is its 12v only.Thats what I can read on it. Everything after the 12v looks like maybe serial numbers to me. My old eyes can't see 3v any where, but with the angle its hard for me to read it.

Come on Dmax, post it up....

 

I see Trombetta Q613-A19 Solenoid. 12V Pull/3V Hold.

It uses 12V to make the initial actuation, and the 3V is used to hold it in an energized state. The question is whether the 3V is generated at the ECU or relay module, and what determines when it's switched from pull to hold.

 

Maybe you need a simple timer curcuit. A quarter second at 12 volt and then switch to 3 volt. Maybe both wires are power supply wires and it is grounded through the chassis. It always takes more power to pull it in than to hold it in.

 

Maybe it's something in the solenoid also. The fact that 34ford couldn't get it to work with a simple 12V constant is why I keep blabbering. The relay schematic does look like it's a simple 12V switch, but there's something more to it than that.

How much was the solenoid? I may have to pick one up to tinker with. My landscaper would appreciate it if I had turf mode. :rofl3:

 

They show in the schematic above that the relay is 12V in and + / - to the solenoid out. It switches from 12 to 3 inside the relay / power supply pack.

 

Any further progress here? I'm very interested in a turf mode for my RZR.

 

Anyone have any more information here?

I am looking at making a off/on/momentary on switch with a voltage regulator on the regular on position regulated at 3v and 12v come out of the momentary position.

Would really prefer to make a cable actuator work though