What hoses do you hook the catch can up to?

 

The breather hose off the engine that runs into the intake tube before the turbo.

 

Who makes a catch can kit?

 

I had one laying around from my ultra four days. I just used the stock hose and clamped the can to the frame. It took less than 10 minutes.

 

So what are we looking at in the picture that tells us we need a catch can?

 

The disgusting oily/watery stuff draining out of the catch can....

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My neighbors company make them for cars he gave me one to try on my RZR. Once it's installed I'll post some pictures. Here's a link to his very well made.
http://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-Single-Catch-Can-P178.aspx

 

do you know what "Inlet" & "Outlet" fitting size is required for a 2017 turbo?

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And why do you have water in your oil?[/QUOTE]



That's what I was thinking! I have a catch can on my wife's twin turbo car, and it comes out really black. That looks like it has water in it. Intercooler leaking? Or maybe snow country does that?

 

My last couple of turbo charged cars all ran oil catch cans. Most of the forums for turbo charged cars have tons of threads on this topic. I figured it would be a matter of time before they started up here. You can run a catch can on pretty much any type of car but it is even more important on turbo-ed cars. The amount of blow by when running a turbo is increased because of the added intake pressures. Like stated above the gases are vented from the crankcase normally through the PCV valve and routed back to the intake. In theory these gases are to be burnt in the combustion. What happens overtime is the intake valve starts to build up with carbon which cause the valves not to seat correctly. Also overtime the gas/oil/moisture (sludge) will build up in the inter-cooler and intake plumbing. This will cause the inter-cooler to become less effective at cooling the intake air.

There are two types of catch cans available. Vented and non-vented. The vented like picture by the op will filter the heavy liquids out and discharge any remaining air/fine gases through the vent. The non-filtered type will filter the heavy liquids out and discharge the air/fine gases back to the intake. There are pro's and con's of each. Catch cans tend to be more effective when mounted lower on the machine (Below the PCV valve)

There are tons of different catch cans available. I would avoid some of the ebay junk. Some cans have integrated filters and others require the use of filter media. Normally filter media is like a very course stainless scrub pad. (Don't use steel wool) The filter media will help stop the airborne particles and force them to fall in the can. The link above for the radium can is one of the best cans in my opinion available. It comes at a price. Mishimoto and Addw1 are a couple others that pop in my head.

And finally......Cold climates can also play a factor in the amount of blow by gases that are exhausted by the crankcase. Living in Wisconsin we have warm summers and cold winters. During the summer I would empty the can once per month and maybe empty 2 or 3 ounces from the can. During the winter I would have to empty the can once per week. It is amazing how much more moisture there is when it gets colder. There have been cases where these cans have froze solid and blocked the path of crankcase gases. If the crankcase gases get trapped the pressure will find another way to escape the crankcase. Its usually the crankshaft seal which is a costly repair. Moral of the story......Make sure you EMPTY the can OFTEN. It's hard to believe a mixture of gas/oil/water can freeze but it will.

Just my 2 cents from what I've learned over the years. Hell I haven't even looked at my new RZR to see how the PCV hoses are ran so don't yell at me if I stated something wrong.

 

My last couple of turbo charged cars all ran oil catch cans. Most of the forums for turbo charged cars have tons of threads on this topic. I figured it would be a matter of time before they started up here. You can run a catch can on pretty much any type of car but it is even more important on turbo-ed cars. The amount of blow by when running a turbo is increased because of the added intake pressures. Like stated above the gases are vented from the crankcase normally through the PCV valve and routed back to the intake. In theory these gases are to be burnt in the combustion. What happens overtime is the intake valve starts to build up with carbon which cause the valves not to seat correctly. Also overtime the gas/oil/moisture (sludge) will build up in the inter-cooler and intake plumbing. This will cause the inter-cooler to become less effective at cooling the intake air.



There are two types of catch cans available. Vented and non-vented. The vented like picture by the op will filter the heavy liquids out and discharge any remaining air/fine gases through the vent. The non-filtered type will filter the heavy liquids out and discharge the air/fine gases back to the intake. There are pro's and con's of each. Catch cans tend to be more effective when mounted lower on the machine (Below the PCV valve)



There are tons of different catch cans available. I would avoid some of the ebay junk. Some cans have integrated filters and others require the use of filter media. Normally filter media is like a very course stainless scrub pad. (Don't use steel wool) The filter media will help stop the airborne particles and force them to fall in the can. The link above for the radium can is one of the best cans in my opinion available. It comes at a price. Mishimoto and Addw1 are a couple others that pop in my head.



And finally......Cold climates can also play a factor in the amount of blow by gases that are exhausted by the crankcase. Living in Wisconsin we have warm summers and cold winters. During the summer I would empty the can once per month and maybe empty 2 or 3 ounces from the can. During the winter I would have to empty the can once per week. It is amazing how much more moisture there is when it gets colder. There have been cases where these cans have froze solid and blocked the path of crankcase gases. If the crankcase gases get trapped the pressure will find another way to escape the crankcase. Its usually the crankshaft seal which is a costly repair. Moral of the story......Make sure you EMPTY the can OFTEN. It's hard to believe a mixture of gas/oil/water can freeze but it will.



Just my 2 cents from what I've learned over the years. Hell I haven't even looked at my new RZR to see how the PCV hoses are ran so don't yell at me if I stated something wrong.

So I'm thinking a non vented with a baffle. I don't swamp my machine but I do have a lot of puddles in my area. This is kinda a new thing to me. I replaced my charge tube and it had quite a bit of oil in it.


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This is a topic for many forums and discussed many times. My supercharged fox is simply vented through the valve cover with a small breather, old school. I used a air compressor type on my Lightning. Since it was clear, you could see when to clean it out. One issue with it the filer media would clog up and needed to be cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Before doing this, I took off the inter cooler and spent many hours cleaning out all of the oil residue. I dumped it out every other fuel stop.

I haven't thought about the XPT. Surprised it isn't discussed more.

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I agree, a catch can is nice. However, you get a bit of a false idea of how bad the oil that gets pulled through the engine is when you look at what drains from a catch can. The catch can is open to atmosphere and will collect moisture via condensation. This happens to a lesser extend inside the engine, since it too is not air-tight. However, in the engine internal temps get high enough to steam-off water. That's not going to happen in a catch can, even with hot oil vapor going into it. So the stuff in the can gets much more milky and nasty than what the engine sees with the PCV still hooked up.

That said, I still like to run a can, and will probably end up adding them to our 2 boosted RZRs (Z1-swap and '18 Turbo).

-TJ

 

I'm surprised nobody offers a kit for rzrs yet on these!

 

I think the biggest problem is nthe oil collecting in the intercooler. Mine was dripping when I pulled it out. You can see oil was pooling up in the intake. Oil in the intake will lower your octane rating. Stock it's probably ok, but for the guys running a tune it could be a problem. I myself was at maximum effort for the stock turbo running 110 octane and advanced timing with bigger injectors. I wasn't happy to find to oil soaked intercooler. My new build will have more crankcase ventilation. I'm thinking about an exhaust evacuation kit. Short of a vacuum pump that's probably my best bet.

 

So I installed my catch can finally. Question to all, the fittings I had are made of polypropylene. Anyone know if this is good for this application? Also the can has 1/2" fittings. 3/4 to 1/2" Kind of bottle necks. 1/2" enough flow?


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So just curious why can't you just run the blow by to the ground. And plug the hole in the intake?

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For me I run in mud, water. If there's a way I would. Some claim it effects oil pressure. Can't see that but also don't want to be test pilot


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I ended up changing to 5/8" from the 3/4" stock to fit the can. Anyway done and I'm happy with it. Time will tell if it works

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needing to set one of these up as mine is pushing some oil through the intake and I noticed this as this past weekend my 4R car had moisture and lots of dust/sand around the VTA bypass valve... so i'll be tearing it apart for deep cleaning. And I'll be doing a can ASAP!

Anyone have any other set ups to share?

 

I'm building a new motor with big turbo and thinking about an evacuation setup. I plan to use a recirculating catch can and pull vacuum on it with an exhaust evacuation setup. Can, check valve, exhaust port, and hose is about $500.

 

Well, I know one kit is on the way and it's a ways out. Least a month.

I don't know if i should wait or get one going. I'm torn on running a vented one to let the pressure pass or a sealed one and let it do what it's doing.

I wish there was more cans with 3/4" fittings on them rather than necking them down and restricting flow.

 

double post

 

Well, I know one kit is on the way and it's a ways out. Least a month.



I don't know if i should wait or get one going. I'm torn on running a vented one to let the pressure pass or a sealed one and let it do what it's doing.



I wish there was more cans with 3/4" fittings on them rather than necking them down and restricting flow.

Mine goes fro 3/4 to 5/8. Pretty sure it don't need more. I've seen boosted 4 bangers with 1/2".


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true... but; that's a lot different application... most cars are not ran let alone under boost over 8,000 RPM for extended periods... bursts maybe but not the same as a RZR and the CVT/powerband/rpm that we run.

 

So does anyone make a kit yet??

 

No. But I know one is in the works with a breather for the higher tuned cars. I’m on the fence on building my own or waiting [emoji23]


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Who's working on that kit?

 

I would just make it yourself. Simple to do. Unless you want to pay someone to shop for you. All easy stuff to find. One thing I will say is don't wait long. Mine was pretty much a new machine with a tune so I'm sure there's more need for it but I can not believe how much was in it two trips later. I honestly thought this was going to be just a good thing to do. No this is a must do.


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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXLL5W9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one that I ordered, has 19mm(3/4") fittings and has the option to run a breather if you really want one. Not a bad price either

 

So you're still pulling vacuum on your set up? (similar to stock but with the can/breather...) with the breaher filter I did not want to pull from the can's breather and only from my air filter so I plan to cap the OEM port on the turbo inlet. My can is a single fitting; capping the intake inlet. it's a 1/2" fitting but with 3/4" hose/barb..

Is anyone also venting the lower side possibly via the dipstick tube? OR is the standard valve cover vent enough?

 

Also; quick question. I am ordering seals/gaskets needed to pull my intake plenum and hoses off and "deep" clean all the oil out as it's likely to have made it that far....

Any pointers for those that have pulled it? looks fairly straight forward..cramped but not terrible.

 

So..maybe I am beating a dead horse or this has been covered .. but I am about to install a catch can on my 2018 xpt and I see that several members on other threads about this same topic are venting the catch can back to the intake ...they claim a vacuum is needed or better for the motor ...any motor experts care to shed light on this?...it seems it would be easy to do ..I am starting to believe it may be a good idea ?

 

Pulling a vacuum on the motor is always going be better, the trick is keeping the oil out of the intake. The right catch can should keep most the oil vapor out but not all. I doubt there is much vacuum on the intake side and if there is you need a better air filter. I'm thinking about routing my can to an exhaust evacuation tube.

 

How are the catch cans working out for everybody?
Catching a lot of gunk?

 

Total I had 1,200ish miles on mine and when I tore tore the motor down there wasn't anymore oil in the intake. I had some oil film early after installing the can, I thought I may of had a bad turbo seal. In the end I believe it was just residual oil from before. It's shocking how much oil collects in the boost tube and intake plenum. Motor looked great internally.

 

Got a can installed today, biggest hose barb on can was a 3/4" so had to make a couple adapters to fit the 1" hose, which causes extra hose clamps to be used. Still looks ok, only 32 miles on the rig and no sign of any gunk in the factory hose. Thank you guys for pointing this out and info needed to do the job!