A few builds I found this afternoon. Please DM with more and I'll add to the list




@craigstumph

Trail Hero on Instagram: "New Trail Alert! Devil’s Caldron rated 10. Just because these SXS made it doesn’t mean you in your JK can 🫠 these guys are great drivers and one of them has Rear Steer. Trail will be offered in the Hardcore Pass 😎 #MonsterEnergy #TrailHero #sandhollow #greaterzion #builtonbfg #bfgoodrich #bfg #wheeling #sunrise #picoftheday #jeep #jeepwrangler #rockslideengeneering #remembereveryonedeployed #racelinewheels #kawasaki #scenic #outdoors #friends #trailriding #discovertrails #teamraceline #buggythings #utv #sxs #event #sandlife"
No back seat, stretched 28”, 111" WB
Custom rear steer
4" Portals, 39” tires


Gabe Ruth's RS1+1

30” stretch, 113”
77” wide
4” portals 30% with regeared transmission
HCR, 35” tires

@SSGPohlman

Incomplete
117” wheelbase

 

Cole Clark

KOH race car
Stretch 19”, 102” WB
Turbo S HCR
PRO XP drivetrain
Frame builder: RMS in Cortez CO
Major modifications for race centric build

@jacksonjack
RS1 build....... pictures missing
100” WB
4” Portals

@SuperATV R2S2

[URL='https://youtu.be/45_3sWSQYfg']

https://www.superatv.com/polaris-rs1-custom-build dead link
https://www.rzrforums.net/threads/sick-1-off-rs1-build.522462
Its not an ATV. Its not a SxS.
114" Wheelbase

@RS1doc "RS1.5"

RS1 stretch
111" WB
4" Portals
Frame builder UTVPROs Hurricane, Utah

ETA: added RS1doc's RS1.5

 

So, @craigstumph, @SSGPohlman, @SuperATV, @jacksonjack or anyone that has stretched (or shortened) a car for rock crawling, why did you choose the wheelbase you did?

@RZR_Joe, @Crash City SxS, @SNWMBL, @RWB713, @dafish, @Reverend_FNG if you could snap your fingers and have your car a specific wheelbase what would you choose?

thanks guys!

 

Her buggy on 35’s with 102” is almost unstoppable. It hardly ever bottoms out.
I shortened the fourseater down to 107 and feels sooo much better than what it did. Haven’t got to really try it out and get a good feel for it but it still feels stable like the 117 but a whole lot more nimble

non portal build 102-108
I would think if we build a portal buggy-we’re stalking about it-I’m gonna be about 110

 

You bring up a very good point. I need to decide whether to run portals before I choose a wheelbase. I opted out of portals on my current 74" wide XP4T on 35s. A reflex kit fell in my lap so I went that route. Very little time on this setup. My Rubicon weekend is F'd by the smoke so I'll have to wait until I'm in Moab later this month and Sand Hollow the next to really see how it works. I'm aware of reasons to not run the reflex kit, but the price was right.

I'm rereading all the portal threads... Crash: Portals vs Gear Reduction RZR_Joe: Portals - The Definitive Guide to name a couple for future reference

PS: I found your chassis build thread, Wow! Someday I'd like to build/buy something similar. RZR tube chassis buggy build

 

We went out to 114".

See How We Built This Tandem RZR RS1

The Polaris RZR RS1 is one of the most unique and thrilling machines there is. So of course, we decided to chop it in half. Check out R2S2!

www.superatv.com

 

We went out to 114".

See How We Built This Tandem RZR RS1

The Polaris RZR RS1 is one of the most unique and thrilling machines there is. So of course, we decided to chop it in half. Check out R2S2!

www.superatv.com

Nice! There's the build page I was looking for!

Which prop shaft did you use. Lists Rhino, but out of which car? A wheelbase of 114" is 3" shorter than an XP4...
Whatever length I end up doing I'll try to use an off the shelf prop shaft in case of failure.

 

I used an RCV carbon fiber shaft. The front is a stock RS1. The rear is the length for a 114" wheelbase. You could potentially use any wheelbase you want. Carbon Fiber shafts have just enough flex that they help to prolong drivetrain parts. That is why I use them.

 

Great information. Thank you.
Any chance I could take a look the next time I’m in your neck of the woods?

 

Yes sir. Stop by.

 

Here is how you make the a arms hold:

 

The first question is where is the most of your riding going to be done? IMO wheelbase and ground clearance setups are determined mostly by what the intended terrain is going to be. What makes a good setup for Sand Hollow may be less than ideal for Windrock for example.

To portal or not to portal? Definitive YES! However, this will bring about a new set of requirements for optimal performance. Sounds like you are already reading the portal guide I wrote which is a great start.

My buggy has a WB od 113" x 79" and the RZR is 118" x 86". The RZR has ~6" more GC than the buggy. They both have places where one works better than the other, it's a give and take.

The first thing to decide is the intended use.

 

The first question is where is the most of your riding going to be done? IMO wheelbase and ground clearance setups are determined mostly by what the intended terrain is going to be…

…The first thing to decide is the intended use.

75% Moab and Sand Hollow
25% Rubicon

Thanks for the input.

 

I’ll jump in so that I’m tracking this thread too but I seen satv build and read they were 3” short of a full 4 seater. Nice if ya have a shop etc but I went w a factory 4 seat turbos s prop rhino version. It’s stock and bolts in since we share the same front diff and trans bolts. I am going portals, 2 of four boxes installed already. It will have two seats. If going full 4 seat length as I am, I’m 90% sure this will also allow you to run dual rs1 gas tanks as well since the front is same as the rear as far as brackets etc. I’ll chime in more as I get time but honey do list w new house is long and such.


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net

 

I’ll jump in so that I’m tracking this thread too but I seen satv build and read they were 3” short of a full 4 seater. Nice if ya have a shop etc but I went w a factory 4 seat turbos s prop rhino version. It’s stock and bolts in since we share the same front diff and trans bolts. I am going portals, 2 of four boxes installed already. It will have two seats. If going full 4 seat length as I am, I’m 90% sure this will also allow you to run dual rs1 gas tanks as well since the front is same as the rear as far as brackets etc. I’ll chime in more as I get time but honey do list w new house is long and such.

Good points.

Regardless of length I will not install a second seat. Like Craig’s rig… definitely simplifies that part of the car.

I’m in Moab right now w my 17 XP4T 74” wide with 35s. It’s a little long sometimes. It has, however, outperformed a 96” WB RZR similarly built… but rarely.

Leaning towards 100”-106” WB, portals, and 74-76” wide currently

 

Build it for where you want to ride. Sand Hollow 90%. Everywhere else 20%. This gives me an extra 10% for Sand Hollow. Currently at Farmington NM testing. Farmington is the only other place in the same class as Sand Hollow that I have been to. I could live here.

 

Currently at Farmington NM testing.

A little birdy told me you were in Farmington. Tell Dan & Steve hello and take lots of video

 

Will do Joe. Riding with a lot of friends in Choke Cherry Canyon. Carnage report for day one is one broken KRX diff input shaft. Carnage report for day two is one rolled Canam X3 and broken axle. Working on day 3 now.......

 

I finally bought another RS1 to cut up. Since starting this thread years ago I have done extensive work on my 17 XP4T. Portals, RS1 diff, reinforced and gusseted chassis, race rack, EZ steer, 37" MRTs, and so on. It is a very capable crawler but I miss the go fast stuff between trails and obstacles. (Referring mostly to Sand Hollow). It is too long for my taste at 119" wheel base. Many of my favorite trails are now too easy and my crew doesn't venture into trails harder than 8. I have contemplated shortening it as that would be easier than stretching the RS1. I've been drooling over stretched RS1s now for years. I have to have one.

I am currently leaning toward 925 Turbo, long travel, no portals, 35" tires and 106" wheelbase.

I think a 106" long travel RS1 will make an amazing Tri-sport (sand, rock, desert) RZR. I can always portal it later if I change my mind...

Ill continue to post ideas and questions here. I look forward to inspiration, ideas, advice and criticisms..

 

Here are a few must haves, nice to haves, and totally dreaming wishlists. Please add your own. I'd love to hear some ideas, suggestions or even criticisms.

MUST HAVES
TurboS4 front calipers and master cylinder
Regeared / rebuilt transmission
Clutching
Bullet proof front differential
925 Turbo engine, harness and ECU (already sourced)
Gated shifter
Custom CV prop shafts
Removable prop shaft carrier bearing bracket (like Pro)
particle separator (side mount like Pro chassis??)
Belt cooling and monitoring system (Razorback)
remote oil filter with cooler (probably unnecessary after stretch)
Front winch
Rock lights
Walker links x4 w relocated rear sway bar
A-pillar and recessed bumper light pods (no more light bars)
Custom tool and part storage (packout style)
Quality springs, properly valved shocks
Quality seat & harness
Thoughtfully gusseted and reinforced frame
Quality cage with removable low mount spare carrier
HDPE skid plate
Long travel suspension
M12 suspension hardware
Mirrors

NICE TO HAVES
Fox RC2, IQS
Heated seat
Front and rear camera, stand alone screen
ride command
Conduit front to rear
Chase lights (only on in go fast mode)

DREAMING
Hydraulic steering (prob unnecessary wo portals)
Suck down winch
brake Line locks not rated for continuous duty
Rear winch
Dynamix
Turbo R suspension & TVM no lift gear reduction
Rear steer (SATV kit requires stock xp width)
preload on the fly from shock therapy (if it ever sees the light of day)
On board air
Electronically folding whips
Pro R drivetrain
Electronic sway bar disconnect by Halo


What did I leave out?

edit to add: M12 suspension hardware, Mirrors

 

Sub’d

 

I would add good mirrors to the list of must haves.

 

good call!

 

Getting ready to start cutting and welding.
Looking for RS1 specific reinforcement recommendations.

I've beefed up a XPT with the @SuperATV gusset kit. I wish a kit for the RS1 and/or Turbo S existed. I'm familiar with those areas of concern generally speaking. A-arm tabs, shock mounts, trailing arm mounts, bumper/winch mounts, etc.
@SNWMBL 's build thread is full of great tips.

Any areas that are prone to failure on the RS1 chassis?

 

Getting ready to start cutting and welding.
Looking for RS1 specific reinforcement recommendations.

I've beefed up a XPT with the @SuperATV gusset kit. I wish a kit for the RS1 and/or Turbo S existed. I'm familiar with those areas of concern generally speaking. A-arm tabs, shock mounts, trailing arm mounts, bumper/winch mounts, etc.
@SNWMBL 's build thread is full of great tips.

Any areas that are prone to failure on the RS1 chassis?

We do make a gusset kit for the RS1.
Link: https://www.superatv.com/polaris-rzr-rs1-frame-stiffener-gusset-kit

 

Beaefer cross member and add two more tubes on each side of the prop shaft. Weld the tubes to the cross member. The other ends dove tail into the two tubes by the gusset plate behind the diff.

 

Got it. Thanks
While we’re looking at this portion where did you tie your A+ pillar into the chassis?

 

What's your idea on suck down winch? I've given it some thought but haven't tried it yet.

 

I’ve not done much more than brainstorm.
1) Rope connection at upper a-arm near lower shock mount.
2) pulley near upper shock mount. Rope parallel to shock. Additional pulleys to route rope to winch
3) winch or linear actuator to pull rope. A linear actuator would make max & min easier to limit. A winch would be more difficult to control.
4) rope containment system to allow full cycling of suspension wo getting rope tangled

Some day maybe list for now

 

That's a whole lot like what I was thinking. Even the rope slack tensioning. But then I'm not sure that is necessary, since limit straps don't have that issue.

 

True. Limit straps tend to bend unidirectionally under compression, though. I have to assume a rope is going to go where it shouldn't unless I do something about it.
I also would probably run most of the time with the rope disconnected from the A-arm. Only attach when situation calls for it.

 

A suck down setup on independent suspension is a bit of a challenge.

I've seen a suck down setup using a winch, pulleys, and rope....janky at best. A better solution, albeit more expensive, is to use adjustable air shocks. Ones like JHF sells allows you to adjust the ride height remotely of any corner via control switches inside the cab. This would not only allow for use as a suck down but also the ability to level any corner of the machine for terrain changes. This is my plan when I get around to changing out the suspension for rear steer, that is if I ever get done with my current U4 project.

 

that would definitely be ideal.

 

But that setup wouldn't pull the front down. Of course we don't have the unsprung weight a regular crawler with a solid axle and water in the tires does. I'll go serious rock crawling in December. Going to put water in the front tires for sure. See if I get around to setting up suck down, honestly it'll cost almost nothing.