Strap down furthest out on the suspension, as close to the tire as you can.

 

Factory placement of the D rings are less than optimal and usually of poor quality. The factory ones use small lag bolts screwed into the floor and have a tendency to pull out. I added in-floor heavy duty D rings(bolted through the floor) so I can run straps over the tires.
It was not easy deciding to cut holes in the floor of a $100k toy hauler but it they look factory once installed. Bite the bullet and install good tie-downs where you need them.

 

Not a lot of options. If the factory rings are in the wrong spot for your machine you will need to put in some other rings of some type to mount to or go with the tracks. How much wider is your trailer than your RZR. Reason I ask is they make bonnet type straps that mount out to the side of your tire and require only one mounting point. I have them for my open trailer and love them. If you have a trailer that is only a couple inches wider than your RZR they won't work but if you have a large trailer with plenty of space you could get away with only mount 4 rings and using these type of straps. Here are the ones I have, made a couple trips that were over 300 miles and it never moved, plus the trailer rode better with the RZR suspension being allowed to work.

Amazon.com: Mytee Products Auto Tie Down Straps Set w/Flat Hook (High Visibility Green Webbing) : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Mytee Products Auto Tie Down Straps Set w/Flat Hook (High Visibility Green Webbing): Ratcheting - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

I know you don’t want to hear the “BEST” way. But E-track with wheel bonnets is by far the best.
If one has a roll up carpet to lay down once unloaded, the e-track is not nearly so noticeable. And once it is done, and you have gotten a nights sleep after “screwing up” your new toy hauler you will appreciate what you have really done!

 

I'd throw tire lasso straps on it, try get the best angle that you can and add a parking brake to your RZR. Let her ride. My thought is to strap it as best you can (don't go crazy, it's not going to fall out). The simple parking brake widget will keep it from moving and you'll be fine.

Check out this parking brake (not affiliated)

https://springbrakethingy.com/products/new-polaris-rzr-xp-pro

 

Not sure “trying the best you can” and “it’s not going to fall out” is the best advice for something weighing a thousand pounds or more traveling at 70 mph.

 

Ok, where is it gonna go? It can't fall off or fall out, there is no room for the load to shift... It's an enclosed 5th wheel toyhauler... there are minimal forces on the machine during transit. If you happen to wreck into anything or roll the toyhauler... the RZR will be destroyed no matter how much you tie it down.

 

Most e track would just pull out as well if actually stressed, just screwed to the wood floor. I imagine some models actually bolt it to the frame. Same with cargo trailers, most of those d-rings are just in the plywood.

 

Well, sir, If my e-track pulls out; I have much bigger problems than that because there will be a lot of other stuff broken and trashed also! Insurance time!

 

good video if you haven’t seen it.

 

Video says not to strap using lower frame. My Polaris manual says to do just that?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

When shopping for a new toy hauler, I took D-Rind location and quality of into consideration. It was one reason we purchased the Keystone Raptor 351. I use Mac's Straps and the tie down locations work perfect. I have inches of room to spare with a Turbo S and an 11' garage. The Mac's straps make it so it doesn't move at all... In my old Hauler, the D-Rings were junk and the rears pulled out. I cut holes into the rear of the storage areas and uses D Rings that mounted on both sides with 6x6" thick metal. They didn't budge.

UTV/Moto/ATV

UTV | Motorcycle | ATV

www.macscustomtiedowns.com

Raptor Toy Hauler Fifth Wheels - Model 351 Floorplan

Look inside the 351 Raptor and review the specifications, standards and options that come with this model Toy Hauler Fifth Wheels. See MSRP and 360 degree layouts

www.keystonerv.com

 

I had the same challenge in mine. If I secured to the frame of the RZR there was enough movement that occasionally the machine would rub on the trailer. This was even after securing the straps, then putting the machine in park, and then stopping after a few miles to take any slack out of the straps. I typically use lasso straps but I did not have ones that fit the tie down points on the TH. I did get some and it helped, but the geometry was still wrong.

I was going to build (I have a commercial sewing machine) some custom wheel straps to fit my tie down locations.

I ended up getting a new truck this year so now the RZR rides on the truck and my garage is free for other things.

 

It's a tight fit and with only one inch in front and rear I can't afford for it to move at all. If not strapped down well they will move around. I though the wife was going to loose it when she discovered the RZR's bumper knocked a hole in the wall after a 7 hour trip. After that trip I added the additional D-rings to strap over the tires and added .062" aluminum diamond plate 2' up each wall for protection.

 

I had challenges with the ratcheting straps coming loose on my RZR in the TH. Park brake helps tremendously to keep the machine from moving. Use these now and no more loose straps.

Ratchet Straps | Tie Downs Straps | ShockStrap.com

Still use the factory rings.

 

When I had a toy hauler I did something different. Since there was a d loop smack in the middle of the parking area I used a chain threaded "D" link to connect a hitch to slip into the receiver on the back of the RZR. I adjusted the length of the chain to be exactly where I wanted the RZR to stop, my wife would put the hitch into the receiver as I backed in and I would back until the chain stopped me. This system allowed me to use short pieces of e-track and bonnets only on the front wheels. Once strapped down there was absolutely no shifting ever and since the chain had no give I never touched the cabinets which were 1 inch away. The e-track was back supported by using short pieces of track under the floor instead of using washers and that increased the strength exponentially. The nice thing also was when you are ready to unload you just unstrap the front wheels and drive out.

 

I use A TV sized wheel bonnets (similar to Rage PS on Amazon) then use trailer chains connected to the center tie point. Bonnets with ratchets pulling in to the middle of the ATV. Then for complete overkill I add wheel chocks with a ratchet strap pulling them into the tires (straps on the outside pulling in).
I switched to a General and have about 6" total clearance after removing the bed. Tight fit.

 

If you don’t want to cut into your brand new floor for extra d rings etc, here’s a simple solution which will allow the use of the factory tie down points.

Take some good quality cargo straps (not Atwood’s specials), run them through the appropriate points of your front and rear wheel spokes so that the strap on the front wheels is pulling toward one direction and the strap on the rear wheels is pulling the opposite direction. You’re tying the machine down in an identical “theoretical” fashion as bonnets ie preventing the tires from rolling, and you’re strapping below the suspension. Take some old socks, cut the toe portion out of them, and slide 2 onto each strap before you feed it through the ratcheting mechanism. Then adjust the socks so that they protect the finish on your wheels and they also protect the strap from being cut by beadlock ring lips etc during travel. Once the socks are properly placed, tighten straps moderately. No need to get carried away. Your trailer and machine will arrive scratch free.

It’s cheap, easy, and simple. I’m not huge on tying my rzr down in the enclosed trailer, period. I do have the spring brake thingy parking brake setup on both machines. I also exercise caution and look well far ahead while driving. No hard braking for me unless something totally unforeseen and random jumps out in front of the truck. But it’s a whole different ball game when it’s inside my brand new $110k toy hauler garage with the rear tires sitting just beyond the crest of the slight dovetail portion. It works perfectly.

 

Lots of good info here. I don't want damage my vinyl floor so I always put those foam pads (2'x2') on the floor, then drive up. Saves the floor. Then just strap down in a X pattern. Works very well for me. I have a open floor design.

 

I use my welded by the factory tiedowns and crisscross the tiedown straps. I Go through the wheel on the front to the tiedown in back and and from the back tire to the tie down in front. It does not move. IT is on a Keystone Raptor 429 with four corner tie downs in each corner of the garage welded in place.

 

I must be lucky I have a tie down 2 ft in front and 1ft behind rzr almost dead center and use 2.5 inch ratchet straps. 1 ratchet strap in front and 1 in the rear put in park and set the parking brake and never an issue after close to 8k miles in the toyhauler. A 2019 jayco 33ft. Sometimes I might have to put a couple clicks on the straps halfway on a 400 mile drive.

 

I had the same problem in my Fusion 371 11' garage in that the tires were very close to covering up the anchor points in the floor. What I did was put a short length of chain on each tie down point to give me some room to attach the Mac straps. Chain is attached with one of those threaded lock o ring so removing them if needed is easy. Buggy does not move.

 

wrknman..
Jayco rings are attached to metal backer welded to frame. They got that part right.

 

In my old Jayco Talon, I put axle straps on the front bumper, and pulled them under the rig to the outside D rings near the back wheels. For the rear, just loop thru the ring on the RZR, pull the strap under the RZR to the D rings near the front wheels. Opposing force to hold her in place. Although she may have shifted an inch or two, it wasn't much. Hauled our RZR that way for 5 years.

Now I have a cargo trailer that we haul behind the motorhome, and I installed E track. And yes, E track it is bolted to the frame, and the plywood floor every 8 inches.

My new toy hauler (Alliance Valor) comes with E track installed.

 

Open trailer you can get away with a lot....
Not easy to get a strap through TRE rims. Some wheels might allow it.
Funhog has best solution IMO.

 

I have a Pioneer 1000-5 in a Cyclone 4115 toy hauler. My problem is i only have about an 1 1/3/4“ between the roof and the bunk frame (once I add a roof) so I’m afraid if I use wheel bonnets to allow the frame to move, it will rock and hit the bunk. Can I use bonnets on e-track and use a couple of ratchet straps mid-vehicle to keep its suspension from moving?

 

Definitely can.

I nearly do the same thing with a different vehicle.

 

Shockstrap has been the best for me, I didnt want to add tie downs or etrack in the toy hauler since we use it as a camper just as much. I have tried all kinds of straps but these seem to be the best, I have yet to find them loose when we get where we are going.

Mike

 

I have seen wood frames in floor with wheel chocks. Removeable if you build it right. Get to camp, unload bikes and remove the wood frame system for slick floor. I'm sure there are many options, but light weight wood that is cheap and easy to work with makes sense.