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"Stop The Buck!?"

11K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  EllerClanLeader  
#1 · (Edited)
Yup, this has been beat to hell...

Just a thought, but maybe It would be great insight for those who have managed to stop the bucking of the rear end to post what has worked for them. Whether it be a re-valve job / progressive - dual rate springs / new shocks / or simply adjusting the stock shocks themselves... A simple one in all thread. The end of all lawn dart threads.

Whether your a full blown competitor wanting to dish out some coin for new shocks or a weekend basher looking for a cheap fix. Perhaps it would be nice to see all the options that have worked in one place.
 
#2 ·
Im not sure if your talking about the way the rear end kicks up when you try to jump but a new helix is what Im looking for like in this thread http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-900/66284-none-ebs-900xp.html It eliminates the engine braking so when you get airborn and let off the gas the rear tires dont just stop which is what sometimes is kicking your rearend upwards.. IDK
 
#4 ·
Im hopeing to eliminate the ebs.. In my signature is a clip at Lil Sahara when I let off the gas and lawn darted :rollfinger: My fault but I cant keep it in my tiny brain to stay on the gas.. and if u keep on gassing it when u land u risk tearing up an axle.. My .02

If any vendors has a solution I hope they chime in :popcorn:
 
#6 ·
I installed Cognito 2.0 shocks & it helped but didn't eliminate the bucking! I have now installed Cognito's dual rate springs, but haven't had a chance to test them out yet! I'll be @ Gordons Well the weekend after Halloween, so I should know after that!

As for the eng. braking thats a great thought & with my STM clutches I think I've got the option to eliminate it!
 
#7 ·
How did the dual rate springs work out for you? :popcorn::popcorn:
 
#8 · (Edited)
I re-valved and problem solved,
stock valving as read and confirmed in polaris manual
Front compression #70 (flutter stack) changed to #50 normal stack (-20)
Front rebound #80 normal stack changed to # 70 normal stack (-10)
Piston 2 hole (Fox standard issue)

Rear compression #70 normal stack changed to #75 normal stack (+5)
Rear rebound # 50 normal stack changed to #80 normal stack (here is the fix) (+30)
Piston custom one hole at .098 changed to "standard" 2 hole piston new piston

Nitrogen pressure at #150

Passenger(S) total weight #340
additional in bed (storage #100)
Stock spring front and rear with additional stock tender springs (two tenders per shock, on each shock stock main front and rear)
Only aftermarket addition to each shock is FOX stage one dual compression adjuster and PEP nitrogen bladders.

Sag / preload set to 70% of "chrome shaft" measured from above the bottom out bumper to shock seal

Parts can be purchased at Off road engineering website
Hope it helps someone.
 
#9 ·
I re-valved and problem solved,
stock valving as read and confirmed in polaris manual
Front compression #70 (flutter stack) changed to #50 normal stack (-20)
Front rebound #80 normal stack changed to # 70 normal stack (-10)
Piston 2 hole (Fox standard issue)

Rear compression #70 normal stack changed to #75 normal stack (+5)
Rear rebound # 50 normal stack changed to #80 normal stack (here is the fix) (+30)
Piston custom one hole at .098 changed to "standard" 2 hole piston new piston

Nitrogen pressure at #150

Parts can be purchased at Off road engineering website
Hope it helps someone.
I dont think I can do this myself (cause I have NO idea what you be talking bout :rofl3: )...But if this fixes the buck Id like to try it. Is there a vendor on here to do this work? Im also leaning toward springs from UTV but Moma wont let loose the funds :rofl3:
 
#10 ·
Took awhile to get back, It wasn't my plan to confuse anyone.. The things i wrote down are the valve stacks numbers that get installed into the shocks. If you take a little time to look up fox valve stack charts for compression and rebound it may start to make sense. Normally shock rebuilders keep this info to themselves because it takes a lot of time tinkering with taking apart the shock making changes... trying again.... I am just an avid off road guy that loves the sport passing on info to those people that want to use it.. Good luck with your shock tuning
 
#12 ·
Its not that hard to do, you will need
1)Nitrogen needle (for releasing charge and refilling)
2)nitrogen source for refilling
3)Torque wrench (for piston retaining nut)
4)Shock oil (I have used "king" brand with success)
5)Pick set (for internal snap rings)
6) Clean area to work
7) Brake cleaner spray to clean parts one last time before assembling unit.

If you fail there are plenty of folks out there to get you back together.. ENJOY!
 
#14 ·
Good to hear the springs helped. I was going down that route myself but ended up pulling the trigger on a set of King shocks. Wanted a great performing shock that needed minimal adjustment. From what I have read it seems they got it right. Time will tell tho. They are 4-5 weeks out until delivery.
 
#15 ·
Thats a great move (Getting Kings) I buddy in our camp has a set and they work very well.. If i didn't go out trying to learn the in's and outs' of shocks I would have bought king's and went on my way... The King folks use all available travel in the machines, add and subtract travel as necessary (not really sure why polaris wouldn't do that to begin with!!) Anyway Good luck you did good
 
#16 ·
I am running the progressive springs from Makkin Trax and had my shocks re-valved and stage 3 pre-load and rebound added. I am not happy with this set up at all. The ride sits much lower and it is very rough in the chopped up dunes. My brother in law has +3" with Elkas on his Rotax rhino and he ran away from me in the rough stuff in the dunes last week. I think I will be selling my Fox Stage 3 shocks and going to Elka's. :rm_thumbdown:
 
#20 ·
Elka's smoothed it all for me... Fly nice and flat and land smooth and sweet.