No one used a Rack Boss from Super ATV on their 570?

 

Maybe no one but you has a bad rack. I cant remember seeing any other posts about bad racks Use the search feature and see what you can find

 

I have, several have went to the Rack Zilla or OEM. Thought maybe someone may have tried the Rack Boss.

 

Mine had quite a bit of slop in the Input shaft & on the driver side & all was due to the Top bearing was worn out I replaced just the top bearing & cleaned & lubed the rack works fine now I got the bearing from NAPA Part# P6202RSJ,Mark the Input shaft cap then unscrew it I used a punch & hammer then input shaft can be removed There is also a small needle bearing @ the bottom of the input shaft Mine was Ok not sure where one of those could be purchased? when reassembling put cap back to where it was (align the marks you made))

 

My rack wore out too. Went with rackzilla. Heard these were about close to the best and found a decent deal. Definitely the horizontal rack gear that was sloppy on mine

 

Also yes same front end as the 800

 

How is your rackzilla holding up? I am about to order it and there power steering, cause I broke my rack.

 

Still 100% but only have this season on it so far. Easy bolt in. Looks heavier for sure

 

I didn't think you could rebuild these racks? Is it normally just 1 bearing that needs replaced?

 

It was just the Upper Bearing that was bad on My Rack it had Play @ The Input Shaft & The Left side if the rack had up & down Play all due the Upper Bearing once it was replaced & cleaned & Lubed it was good all play was no longer there,Very simple Rack with few components but Polaris dosen't sell any parts,The Parts are: Upper Bearing (Got it from NAPA #P6202RSJ) The Lower Needle Bearing Mine was ok not sure where one could be purchased, The Rack it's self & The Pinion Gear & The 2 Inner Tie Rod Ends ( (available aftermarket) & the 2 Boots, What surprised Me when I removed My Rack Assembly & started tear down was it was full of water & I am not much of a mud rider,easiest way to check upper bearing play is with RZR not jacked up take a light & look at the input shaft of the rack (where the shaft from the steering wheel connects) have someone rock the steering wheel back & forth a bit & look for play if there is a good bit of play the bearing is bad,to change the upper bearing the top cap unscrews use a punch & hammer but mark cap & rack with a center punch 1st & reinstall cap aligning the marks after changing the bearing if overtightned it will put too much preload on the bearing & cause binding.

 

I'm going to tear into my rack 1st & try to fix it 1st, but if the 800 racks are the same (as some say) I wonder why SUPER ATV doesn't sell the "Rack Boss" for it? I've been told the only difference is the tie rods but I've also been told that the steering shaft also has a different part number as well. So that makes me wonder if the input shaft is located differently between the 570 & 800. It's worth the effort for me to find out because of the price I can get the "Rack Boss" for. If the end result doesn't work to fix mine or I find out that the Rack Boss for the 800 will not work then I will definitely look into purchasing the Rack Zilla over the OEM.

 

I have the satv long travel kit so tie rod ends are satv only. So when I ordered my rackzilla I ordered it for an 800S. Straight bolt in for mine and now with better hiem joints for rod ends

 

So do you have a 570 but ordered the 800s rack zilla? If so then the Rack Boss for the 800 should work on my 570 right?

 

Should be identical the 800 and 570 50" version. From the back of the seats forward pretty much the same machine. And yup I have a 570 but with the long travel kit it make it the same as an S width.

 

Ok, Rack Boss bolted in perfect, my question is; does the outer tie rod (heim joint) still mount under the lip on the steering knuckle just like the OEM style ends do or do these moumt on top because of it being a Heim joint?

 

Well, according to SATV, they mount in the stock location, so I guess I answered my own question, Lol.

 

Ok, I installed the Heim (tie rod) joints on top of the steering knuckle instead of underneath. In the instructions it says to mount back in factory position, but after I did the joint was extremely close to one of the brake caliper bolts, so close that I would have to pull the tie rods everytime I had to pull the caliper to grease my front bearings (which is about every 3rd-4th ride). So I talked to a tech at my local Polaris dealer & then I called SUPER ATV & spoke with one of their engineers, they both agreed that there would be no problems with installing them on top. Plus the angle & stress is less on the inner & outer joints being mounted on top. So hopefully it will also prolong the life of the joints. I haven't rode it yet but will hopefully be out in it this week.
How about you guys, have you experienced this as well, let me know, Thanks.

 

I haven't done this on a rzr but I have done the exact same thing on lifted trucks. Flip the drag link/tie rod end from the bottom to the top of the steering knuckle. It definitely helps prolong the tie rod end life on a vehicle and helps with bump steer due to decreasing the angle on the joint. The more inline you can have moving joints the better.

 

If you can put your home joint tie rod ends on top it?s much better u feel less in the steering wheel and it?s less stress on the joints. I had it that way before but now with the outkast kit I have to go under the knuckle and I can feel the difference. So now I?ll be looking for wheels lol

 

Steering Rack & Heim Tie Rods

Ok, I've driven it up & down my road some. Could be me, but it feels like there is more body roll in the front now. I have read on here somewhere last night about the Heim tie rod ends toe in & out fluctuates as the suspension goes up & down. I find this to be true because when I pick up or push down on the front end the toe in does fluctuate, it just doesnt look right. Now I did mount the outer Heims (tie rods) on top of the steering knuckle instead of underneath after talking to a mechanic at my local dealership & one of the tech guys at SATV. Could that be the issue or is it the nature of the Heim tie rod ends or is there nothing wrong at all? I never paid attention to the toe movement before all this. Thanks again for your help.

 

It changes the geometry a bit because the angle is different from the a arms. I tried top and bottom and stayed with bottom because it steers better in all conditions. When you slow down or squat the front end it toes out more and makes it squirrely with it on the top

 

Well I'm in the process of changing it back around now, (back to the top). Do you run the Heim's?

 

You have the little bushings for your heims right? Yup running heavy duty heims as well. Mind you I'm only running 14" clearance with longer a arms too. With short arms you might need to run them on the top if running enough lift. Never thought of that for your situation

 

Never mind I'm tired lol. Mine is still ok at full droop. Quite an angle then and they still have a little to go

 

There's definitely a difference in the angle, & yes I am running the small adapters. The problem I'm having now is the bolts are not long enough to put the cotter pin in it, SATV sent new hardware but they missed the mark on where the hole was drilled in the bolt. I'm just going to get new from FASTENAL tomorrow. Have you had any issues with your Heims, I've read some like them but some don't as well.

 

This is an idea of what angles I'm running. This is without my 3" lift

 

Got about 400 km or so on them. No issues so far. The stock style were absolute garbage. Only get a season out of stockers. I've ran nyloc nuts without cotter pins for 3000km without worrying about them.

 

Yeah that's a lot more angle than mine has, I have a 2in lift w/27 Zillas. What size are your Outlaws?