Have you thought about maybe not being so hard on your stuff? You would probably save a ton of money and ride a lot more.

 

No.

 

I have relocated one under the front dash. Not hard to do just have to make or buy custom power cables. I used an extra winch power cable that I had laying around and it worked perfect. Otherwise, a good parts store will have a battery cable selection that you can find what you need, or Amazon.

Amazon.com: 4 AWG Battery Cable 4AWG Gauge Pure Copper Battery Inverter Cables with 3/8 in Lugs Both Ends Power Inverter Wire Set for Automotive Solar Marine Boat RV Car Motorcycle Red and Black (5FT) : Automotive

 

Thank you Sir. That's exactly what I was wondering and seemed it should be do-able without major issue.
I appreciate your feedback.

 

Started in on it and found a couple interesting things:

• main power to the solenoid appears a short wire from main battery (apparently not fused as far as I can tell) straight back to the solenoid which makes sense, (so be careful with your wire routing or add some kind of fuse- which may be a bad idea)
• one of my rims was loose when I took it off to get access to the solenoid: which apparently wallowed out my Tusk rim; so that's going on the spare rear now - not sure how that happened as I put them on with an impact and lock tite.
• thinking of moving the solenoid up under cover for the air intake/cvt exhaust/intake and that was a pain to get off. The angles welded into the support for the roll cage in the corners made that hard. Had to get in the middle in the cab and twist it off into the cab. Hopefully I can find a place that will stop the solenoid from getting submerged/sprayed/and it can still get heat out without melting something.
• thinking while I've got this apart snorkels may not be a bad idea. That's gonna be challenging with my cooler rack set up and may take some custom work.
• Appears the wire for the solenoid is 6 awg (just used the copper flute butt style connectors with crimper, heat shrink, elec tape, and wire protector that I'll run over all of it when done).
• air filter looked pretty good but it appears some muddy water made its way in the box. It seems like they would use a better sealing air box from the factory.

 

Great pictures, I see why you want to move the solenoid. Do not put a fuse between the battery and the solenoid. The solenoid does not generate any significant heat, so you don't need to worry about the location. Looking good!

 

Thank you Sir. I appreciate the help.

 

Would it be easier to order a piece of kydex on Amazon, heat it and shape it over a block of wood, then attach it covering the solenoid to protect it from mud and rocks?

I haven’t checked prices in a while, but I’m sure it would be cheaper than buying heavy wire to reach a new mounting location and no worries about routing/rubbing.

 

I had never utilized it but now I'm going down a rabbit hole later lol. I would like a shield back there to protect various wires I have running thru the area.

 

Got it moved fine. Typical for what you would expect in doing something like that. Reinforced on both sides with bolts through some aluminum angle for mounting. Was hoping to fire it up and pull out of the garage for some much needed cleaning in areas that didn't get cleaned in the car wash....but....

- When I started looking at moving the solenoid to a new location I noticed intermittent starting. Key on, brake pressed, and the old solenoid would click. The starter would go when the solenoid was jumped. Resistance check with an ohm meter showed functioning on the old solenoid. I wanted it moved anyway and hoped maybe it was an intermittent short in the solenoid or it was just weak.

However, after installing and moving a new one to a new location it does the same thing. I'm kind of at a loss. Clicks on attempt to start with no starter turn. Starter turns when solenoid is jumped. Maybe a weak start signal to the solenoid? I really have no idea.

 

Does the started click at all or kick out the bendix gear? Is it getting voltage through the solenoid? And if so can you check the current?

Maybe the ignition switch is going out and not supplying steady power to the solenoid so it clicks but doesn’t stay powered.

 

Negate.

 

I noticed when I tighten the leads on the solenoid it doesn't work. Loose and hanging on the bolts it does.
Def a bad connection at the solenoid. That explains the old one if it was dirty or bad connection.
This stuff is all new. Ill have to go back and make sure the connections are good and clean. Maybe I'm over tightening or something. Maybe put a nut on the bolts before the lead.

This is becoming way more trouble then basic 12v usually is.

 

Well....for anyone whom ever plays this game....from memory:

• old one would only click then fire starter now and then
• bought a new one and moved it up = same results
• fired when power lead was loose but not when tightened....which makes no sense
• wire brushed the brand new solenoid leads and cleaned, swapped to copper terminal lugs on solenoid and battery, ran a 4 awg (stock is 6 awg) straight to solenoid from battery and same deal = tightened up no fire, ran a ground in case the frame of solenoid (originally bolted to frame of RZR) needed grounded, made a new hole on copper lug that was smaller for better connection, checked old solenoid for continuity, checked v on new showed low on starter side even though you could hear the solenoid was closed while turning key = showed good on power side, put a load tester on battery and even on positive side wire of solenoid = showed good under load, prob did some other stuff I'm not thinking of....

- and finally went to the auto parts store and bought some nice solenoid, wired it in, and ran a ground wire from its frame = good to go.

Still no clue what happened with the old and new factory style solenoid. (Probably some common sense thing I missed). Ill update if my new setup has any issues.
Put on some dialectic grease, covered intakes, and finally power washed it.

Now to decide on snorkels install or not.