The 33 belt is for the S and I may be wrong but I believe it is made with kevlar

 

That’s what I told the parts dept.... different composition or perhaps kevlar. They were aloof to what I was talking about. :sad:

Not sure about the actual numers any more but local dealer gave me an old number belt that crossed to new number but in reality the belts were two different widths for my 2011 S. Measured my old belt and did not settle untill I got a new belt at least as wide as the old one. At one point I had "old" and "new" numbers in front of me, the parts lady was showing me where the belt number "superseded" to the same and I was proving to her that neither of her belts were as wide as my old one. She ordered me another "new" number belt and it came in at the correct width. I did not try to use the "new" number belt that was obviously too narrow. The difference is obvious if you lay them flat side by side and check width.

Good point... I don’t have my old belt out so I couldn’t compare it to the old one. However, the two new ones were the same width.



Mark

 

Looks like I’m going to need to replace the belt. I did a little search and it seems like the Rzr S belt is the belt to use. (anyone know why?)

.......they looked identical. ie. The same thickness, size, cogs, spacing, width, etc, etc...

Can anyone tell me what the difference is?..........


Anyone?

Thanks,

Mark

Without comparitively delamminating the belts, layer by layer, you wouldn't be able to purcieve a difference; the material of the lamminates could be slightly different, the bias of the plys might be different (uni vs bi-directional), the interstitial bonding might be different, etc., etc. ad-infinitum. You get the idea; there are a multitude of possible variables that are not readily apparent to the naked, un-trained eye. Bottom line: although somewhat more expensive, the RZR-S belt seems to be more bullet-proof. My two-bits......

Cheers

 

Superman wears the S belt!!

 

!!!!!!! superman !!!!!! ha ha .. i like that

 

Not sure about the actual numers any more but local dealer gave me an old number belt that crossed to new number but in reality the belts were two different widths for my 2011 S. Measured my old belt and did not settle untill I got a new belt at least as wide as the old one. At one point I had "old" and "new" numbers in front of me, the parts lady was showing me where the belt number "superseded" to the same and I was proving to her that neither of her belts were as wide as my old one. She ordered me another "new" number belt and it came in at the correct width. I did not try to use the "new" number belt that was obviously too narrow. The difference is obvious if you lay them flat side by side and check width.

 

They should both be Kevlar, and there should be a physical difference. Last time I looked at the belts... the "Std" belt had a top (outer) side that was only about 1/8" tall, and the "Teeth" were small. The "S" belt had much taller teeth, and was about 1/4" thick from the center section.

******EDIT******


I found a pic of the 2 OEM belts sitting side by side. The newest Std belt has bigger inside teeth, but the outer section is still small like the picture.

 

Not sure what the difference was between the two belts I held in my hand but they were definitely identical in every aspect from physically looking at them. I looked at the thickness of the cogs, angles, height, width, etc, etc... for the life of me, I couldn’t see a difference. I should have asked about the price. If one was kevlar, it would have been quite a bit more expensive.

Dunno.... :question:


Mark

 

S belt 3211130 Standard belt 3211113 Don't put a S on a Standard or a Standard on a S.

 

OK, why not?

 

Well what about the 3GX belt from highlifter? I was going to give them a try, if I can find anyone who has before me.

$15 a year for full replacement sounds pretty good. Since I've gone through 3 belts this year!!!

 

Three belts in one year. I have yet to replace one, are you doing the pre install prep that the guys are suggesting? ,I know I'm going to.

 

Thanks

 

I have 2500 on my stock s belt, works like new still, very happy!! This is my first belt drive, I'll be sticking with the good stock belt, seems to work good for me so I'll keep using it.

 

My dealer recommended the "S" belt for my standard RZR because "that's what all the fast guys he deals with, use". The fact that the "S" belt was $130.00 compared to $65.00 for the standard belt had no bearing on his recommendation.
Being a cheapazz, I bought the standard belt.

This has been an informative thread, thanks for the info.

 

My bro blew a belt this year. He replaced it with the "S" belt. Now his rzr is faster than mine because the "S" belt is slightly wider than the std belt. Nothing wrong with using a "S" belt on a std or vice versa.
I agree with the pre install prep. But its not a huge deal if you dont do it. All the washing does is get rid of the compound used to make the belt release from the mold. And by cleaning the clutches what you are doing is making sure the sheaves grab the belt better. Less slipping=longer belt life. In all reality, you should clean your clutches periodically, not just when you change a belt. Also, nice gentle easy starts are harder on your belt than if you just get it moving. Easy starts slip the belt.

As long as your clutches are aligned properly, and you arent treating your belt bad, there should be no reason your belts dont last 3-4000 miles or more. I use kelvar polaris belts on my snowmobiles and usually hit 4000 miles on a belt before I swap it out for a new one. I have never blown a belt on anything Ive owned. My sled is 140+hp, and alot more rolling resistance than a rzr or atv.

 

You can also install a regular valve stem with the core removed and the cap put back on for a drain.

 

I put an S belt on my 2012 and have had no issues.The stock belt is a 3211113.The 3211133 is listed in the online Polaris parts catalog as a performance upgrade for the 50" RZR.

 

That was why I installed the S belt.... it was a factory upgrade and the belt physically looked beefier.

Only ran it once for about 4 hours... works so far.

You can also install a regular valve stem with the core removed and the cap put back on for a drain.

Dude, I gotta tell you... sometimes the simple ideas are the best ones. That is a FANTASTIC idea. Guess I need to take mine apart again!!


Thanks,

Mark

 

I run the S belt on my standard and it works great.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

I'm running the ddp clutch. Would running the s belt with that throw anything out of wack?. Like would the shifting change? Any already do this?
Thanks

 

I could do a tensile test on my Instron if anyone has a donation.

Or you can just buy a EPI belt and never worry again...

 

After blowing up a brand new Epi belt I switched to the S belt. The standard machines that had trouble either didn't have good clutch alignment or the bearing was going bad. The S belt is far superior to the little belt that came originally on my RZR.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

Huh, my EPI belt has lasted almost a thousand miles, stock belt went at 200...

 

The same thickness, size, cogs, spacing, width, etc, etc...
Mark

They are different widths. Use a caliper on new belts and you will see. Not much, but different.
The reason they are not interchangeable is the spacing of the clutches, they are shimmed/set up for the width of the belts. But after a little clutch wear and belt wear, either will work. The s belt is a stronger belt.

jmo

 

The same thickness, size, cogs, spacing, width, etc, etc...
Mark

They are different widths. Use a caliper on new belts and you will see. Not much, but different.
The reason they are not interchangeable is the spacing of the clutches, they are shimmed/set up for the width of the belts. But after a little clutch wear and belt wear, either will work. The s belt is a stronger belt.

jmo

Apparently the two belts I was comparing were mis-packaged. They were the exact same but when I actually bought the S belt, they were completely different.

But I do disagree about them not being interchangeable. According to Polaris, they are not only interchangeable but the S belt is an upgrade for the standard.


Mark

 

I wanted a spare belt for my '11 standard. Went to dealer and they suggested I put on the S belt and keep stock for spare.

She laid both belts flat on the counter and the S was a bit wider and she said would add a couple miles an hour and is a stronger belt.

250 miles later she still runs like a top!!!!

I would also highly encourage anyone to do a mock belt change in the comfort of your garage so you know exactly what to do and the tools necessary.

It's not a lot of fun. I hope I never have to do it with freezing fingers!!!! :rm_thumbdown:

 

I took off the stock belt from my standard 50" today and put on an "S" belt. No alignment issues etc. Belt change is easy. S belt is wider and definitely deeper than the stock belt. I went for a 5 mile ride to do some belt break in, no weird noises, no performance issues, it just works.

 

I'm up to 2900 on my stock '12 S belt now. Still looks new, and this is my first belt drive. Just gotta know when to use low and damn well use it. A belt lasts as long as the operator let's it.

I know many people that get 600 miles on a belt and think it's normal. Those are also the guys on 800s with 28" or bigger tires flogging it out in the swamp in high range because their renegade or brute force will turn the tires if you hold it to the bar, while theyre still hauling butt low is always better for anything technical.

 

So the rzr S belt 3211133 gives you more punch out of the hole? Cause it's wider?

 

My understanding is as you hit the gas, the centrifical forces spreads the sheaves apart. With the belt being wider, it’s already rubbing up against the sheaves and engages sooner because of that.


I’m sure someone can provide a more technical explanation.


Mark

 

I can't say that, maybe more positive engagement. My stock belt on my 800 was burnt and glazed before we even left the dealer.