Good info. I have noticed the front to be most difficult to find happy place when stock. Are you using limit straps?

 

I am.

One of the first things I swapped on my TRE was swap the springs to ST. The dual rate spring kit. The rebound "SLAM" was driving me nuts.

 

Thanks Pro4,
I’m not running limit straps. I had the clunk before the re-valve, but I don’t anymore. I’m running rhino x300 axles and haven’t had a problem with over extension so far.

 

So did the Axle swap having more range of motion stop the clunk at full droop? Or did the shock changes stop it? What is your opinion on this?

I'm about to service my front shocks and considering some inexpensive spacers under piston to limit droop 1/2 to 1 inch. Lot cheaper than limit straps. It doesn't happen often, but we know it's not a good mechanical sound... Have done such on motorcycles for my friend who was height challenged

 

No the axles have been in there a few months, it was the shocks working better for sure. Feels like rebound was slowed down and it much more controlled now. I don’t get the boat feel in curves or over choppy terrain now.

Only did around 120-150 miles this weekend, but they were extremely hard miles. Springs should be done breaking in now and I’m going to just try to dial it in a little better.

 

Both front shocks were also blown when taken off to send in to have re-done. The stocks had 2k miles on them and were shot so it’s a vast improvement.

 

Upgrading the front shocks (walker Evans) from the 2.0 to the 2.5 (walker Evans) rewards better valving that is available and more volume for less fading .. Just an FYI

 

Well unfortunately I had read where people had said that and I was fine doing it but was talked out of it. I was told it would give me a rougher ride for the type of riding I was doing. I do believe that’s part of the problem, but I’m not an expert at suspensions so I followed the advice given.

 

Shock work done by "Ed The Suspension Guy" in Fontana Ca. Re-valve, Re-spring of rear WE 2.5" OEM shocks. Bought new 2.5" WE fronts From Ed with Re-Valve and Re-spring. Ride is by far the smoothest I've experienced and stiffens up when needed for high speed runs. Best $ spent on my machine by far....

 

I Have used Ed for going on 10 years now- and he does ALL my shock work for my Speed Shop... So So much better attention to the set-up your looking for and he stands behind his work

 

@Bowman89
Have you called and talked to Gary yet ...what did he say?

 

@Bowman89
Have you called and talked to Gary yet ...what did he say?

I haven’t had a chance yet today, waiting for a slow down at work today so I can.

I did re-check ride height last night, and the front is way off. I set the front at 16” last week and it is now 13.75”. Springs settled 2.25” in a 150 miles. Seems really excessive to me. The rear was set at 16” also and is now 15.5”.

 

Sounds like the front springs were soft to begin with. It will be interesting to hear what he recommends

 

I have thrown a lot of money at my 2.0 WE’s in the form of different springs and valving after being told by a few people that 2.5” shocks weren’t necessary, but I would disagree now after my own experiences. I wish I would have just spent the money up front and bought the 2.5” shocks.

 

Your front springs are definitely soft.

 

That’s what I’m thinking too, because it was just me riding this weekend. 95% of the time my wife is with me so this was with only one rider and I gave the info for both of us. If anything I really expected the ride to be a bit in the hard side without her in it.

 

Just got off the phone with Gary. He believes he underestimated the weight of my doors and cage (.120 DOM) and the springs are a bit on the soft side and is going to go up 50lbs in spring. He’s also going to re-valve the fronts to match the new spring rates to control the rebound better with the stiffer spring package.

Overall I’m very pleased in dealing with him. Nobody is perfect every time, admitting a possible mistake and taking care of it is all I can ask for. I’ve seen some ppl defend their errors and not want to admit they screwed up. This isn’t the case here, it’ll cost me a couple weeks of down time but hey I only get to go out once every other month anyway so not a big deal.

 

Looks good man, but yeah you live and learn should have just went with my gut and got a set of built RC2’s. But hey it still rides better than the trash factory setup lol.

 

Yes I agree, But when I worked for Polaris they ( from Factory) have to set them up for like 2 300 lbs guys riding in a 2 seater and have the buckboard spring rates in there with the no useful rear tender springs that are ALWAYS sacked out. Safety issue they say- as they don't know who is buying the machine and set- it-up for the worst.... I say BS but it is what it is.

 

Also, I just got back from Moab & Sedona AZ.

One of the things I just did a while back was check & adjust the nitrogen pressure in my shocks.

I had them set at 170 PSI. When I checked a month ago, one was as low as 80 PSI.

At 170 PSI my TRE rides like new again. In fact, waaaaaayyy better than new.

ST dual rate springs, nitrogen at 170, 32" tires at 6 PSI. Two clicks up from full soft on the adjustment knobs. My TRE is riding & driving better than it ever has.

 

Update:

So I sent the fronts back to Gary and just got them back Friday. One was a little low on nitrogen, which he said happens a small percent of the time on walkers after a rebuild. But he went through them again and he went to a 50 lbs heavier top spring.

I’m hopeful this fixes the diving front end issue and the boaty feeling I had. It wasn’t terrible but I knew it wasn’t quite right. Next trip isn’t until the end of May so I won’t know for sure for another 6 weeks. Wish there was somewhere closer to do break in and dial them in but I guess it’ll just have to wait.