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S Conversion

4.4K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  RockPeakUTV  
#1 ·
I have a question on the S conversion kit. Just bought my first UTV (2015 RZR 900 Trail EPS) which I got for a steal but almost immediately regretted with width. I looked at just selling it but it looks like with this kit and new S shocks I could end up with nearly 100% new suspension on this machine and still be into it well less than a new machine with arguably lower quality suspension.

My understanding from reading is that I would not want to get the kit with lift if I am adding S length shocks and if I wanted I could buy an S lift after (or do at the same time but with the s lift not the kit with the lift) is that the right way to go? Is it harder to do the lift after vs at the time of install?

Also if I wanted everything down there new I would also need new ball joints correct? The cost difference between the Super duty and heavy duty is not enough to make a difference I would go super, but the difference between super duty and standard is pretty big, how much longer do the super duty last and can they be serviced vs replaced in the future?

I think the kit comes with bushings, other than doing wheel bearings at the same time (and buying shocks) is there anything else I should be looking to purchase to essentially have all new suspension? I did just get some 4+3 offset wheels with 28/9/14 and 28/11/14 tires used that I am hoping will work with it.

Are there any specific shocks recommended for the kit? Do I need to do anything with the clutch etc based on these modifications?
 
#2 ·
Hey!

Copying my PM to you here for future reference....

Depending on where and how you ride.....I'd recommend just sticking with the S kit without the lift so you can get some S length shocks and be a true S model. The ride will be soooo much better than what you have now with the short trail length shocks.

And yes....once you convert it to a TRUE S model with S length shocks...you'll be able to use an S specific lift kit if you wanted. Two schools of thought on when to do it all. First....its easier to knock it all out at once so you only have to tear it down that one time. BUT....at the same time, its nice to put the conversion on first and ride it so you know its set up the way you want it and you get to experience the S width by itself before adding a lift.

I would highly recommend getting some new HD ball joints. The HD 4340 will be perfect for you. The 300M super duty is top of the line, but you can shave a few bucks of with the HD's and be completely solid. The 300M is definitely geared more towards the hardcore rock crawler guys and bounty hole mud guys running 40"+ tires. Awesome ball joints though. Top of the line. The ball joints are serviceable and do require some occasional maintenance. Pretty simple though. Grease them once or twice a year...and check how tight they are ever couple rides. You just have to turn the little knob on the bottom to tighten them up. Takes like 30 seconds each to check and tighten if you need it.

Kit should come with bushings. It comes with everything you're going to need...so you're ready to go right out of the box with that kit.

We do not sell a shock package for the 900 S models. Just some cheapies for the 800 to 800 S conversion.

Clutching is solid, and you're sticking with little tires so no worries there.

Another thing that's SUPER fun....and totally unnecessary..... Lol! :ROFLMAO: An ECU tuner will light that thing up!!! The 2015 900 has a TON of factory limitations...so there's a massive amount of power left over from the factory that's not being utilized. You can hit it with our ECU flash, and that little guy turns into a monster. Pretty awesome.
 
#3 ·
Hey!

Copying my PM to you here for future reference....

Depending on where and how you ride.....I'd recommend just sticking with the S kit without the lift so you can get some S length shocks and be a true S model. The ride will be soooo much better than what you have now with the short trail length shocks.

And yes....once you convert it to a TRUE S model with S length shocks...you'll be able to use an S specific lift kit if you wanted. Two schools of thought on when to do it all. First....its easier to knock it all out at once so you only have to tear it down that one time. BUT....at the same time, its nice to put the conversion on first and ride it so you know its set up the way you want it and you get to experience the S width by itself before adding a lift.

I would highly recommend getting some new HD ball joints. The HD 4340 will be perfect for you. The 300M super duty is top of the line, but you can shave a few bucks of with the HD's and be completely solid. The 300M is definitely geared more towards the hardcore rock crawler guys and bounty hole mud guys running 40"+ tires. Awesome ball joints though. Top of the line. The ball joints are serviceable and do require some occasional maintenance. Pretty simple though. Grease them once or twice a year...and check how tight they are ever couple rides. You just have to turn the little knob on the bottom to tighten them up. Takes like 30 seconds each to check and tighten if you need it.

Kit should come with bushings. It comes with everything you're going to need...so you're ready to go right out of the box with that kit.

We do not sell a shock package for the 900 S models. Just some cheapies for the 800 to 800 S conversion.

Clutching is solid, and you're sticking with little tires so no worries there.

Another thing that's SUPER fun....and totally unnecessary..... Lol! :ROFLMAO: An ECU tuner will light that thing up!!! The 2015 900 has a TON of factory limitations...so there's a massive amount of power left over from the factory that's not being utilized. You can hit it with our ECU flash, and that little guy turns into a monster. Pretty awesome.
On the tuner is it the stage 1 or stage 2 or would I need both?
 
#9 ·
This is the ticket! Sometimes you can find a great deal on here.

So does that mean you run one at a time or to run stage 2 you also need a stage 1. Sorry for the silly questions, new to these machines.
You can run either by themselves. You could just buy Stage 2 or Stage 1 by themselves if you wanted to. Or you can get both and use either one depending on the fuel you have available at the time.
 
#11 ·
I appreciate the offer, I have not really wrenched on one of these machines before though (or even my vehicles in a number of years) and I think if I get it I would be better off doing the kit vs attempting to piece it together. I am separately looking for shocks though.