Sounds like the primary is sticking and not releasing the belt when it idles down.

 

Yep, primary would be my guess. My buddys was doing the same thing. Replaced the primary and issue gone

 

Why not take it to the dealer and let them work on it if it’s a new unit? First step is to remove the clutch cover and see wha going on. Diagnose the problem before buying tools/parts

 

What year turbo s?

 

This is a 2019 that I bought earlier this year with 13 hours on it. The warranty period expired - previous owner bought and never used it.

I am going to get the cover off next chance I get - how can I tell if it is sticking, can I move the primary in or out by hand at all to see?

 

Your primary is definitely sticking. You can remove the belt and run the engine. have someone slowly rev the engine while you watch the primary close then have them let off and watch it open. It should open and close smoothly and should fully open at idle. Could just be something stuck in the clutch.
You could also re-install the belt and repeat in neutral and make sure the secondary isn't sticking either.

 

That’s a metal piece of a slider saver. All three are likely cracked or broken. You need to disassemble the primary and see if there’s any other pieces inside and get them out. Would strongly suggest upgrading to SLP Power Pucks and you won’t have that issue anymore.

 

Sounds good...you really need all these tools they list in the instructions to install them? I looked at the "clutch cover removal tool" and it is a flexible socket driver. I don't need their special one. Are the rest of the tools nonsense or necessary and specifically unique to a Polaris clutch that it is not a marketing version of a common hand tool (aside from the clutch puller)?

Specialized Tools Required for Install Clutch Cover Removal Tool (SLP# 20-311) Clutch Puller (#20-136) Clutch Press Tool (#20-222) Belt Removal Tool (#50-60) Clutch Holding Tool (#20-310)

 

No. The threads in the secondary clutch are 1/4-20, about a 4” long fully threaded bolt will work for removing and installing the belt. You can make a secondary compressing tool out of 3/8 all thread and a couple washers to take it apart on the bench. You can put the torque wrench on the secondary clutch against your skidplate if you have one and then rotate the clutch to torque it. Primary clutch I stick a prybar between the clutch towers against socks to hold it.

You will need a primary clutch puller, a spider nut tool, and a primary holding fixture. In my opinion Hunterworks has the best tools. You do not need the spider nut tool & fixture tool unless you want to completely disassemble which isn’t necessary unless installing Power Pucks or replacing the bearing.

I would disassemble the secondary clutch and check the condition of the spring, helix, 3 buttons and 3 sliders. Then disassemble the primary and check the condition of the sliders, rollers, weights ect

 

Check the stainless steel inserts that the sliders ride on for any wear or small groove. They will cause the primary to hang up also especially if you broke a slider once.

 

While I agree the primary is the likely culprit for the OP I'll add (for future reference) that the secondary can fail to back shift properly as well. If that happens you likely won't be able to shift at all. When this happens the belt rides lower in the secondary due to failed back shift.
This happened to me a few days ago. Slammed on the brakes. Car died. Couldn't shift. When trying to start it the starter motor tried to turn the transmission as the belt and clutches were fully engaged. Pulled the belt, shifted car to park, brief visual inspection without pulling clutches, reinstalled belt to test. It shifted ok so I "limped" back to camp but it ran fine.

My assumption in this case is a weak secondary spring combined with dirty sliders that kept the inner secondary sheave from back shifting fully on abrupt deceleration. Time to rebuild the clutches (3400 miles FWIW).

 

My 2019 turbo s also had broke sliders. I pulled the clutch and sent it to SLP for their pucks and clutch kit. Very fast turn around. Got it back and reinstalled. Runs great.

It’s important to regularly remove clutch cover and blow the dust out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

OK, here is where the questions might get stupid. I have pulled the side off my clutch cover and went to take a look. I know when I first put on my belt, I can freely spin the secondary clutch to get it on there. I cannot spin the secondary at all at the moment. I have actually never tried to spin it before after running it with the belt on, only after a new install.

Is this normal?

 

If it’s in neutral and you can’t spin the secondary then something is not right.

 

So, loosened the secondary and it moves just fine in neutral. That being said, I think the primary is always "tight" on the belt, even when not in gear. When I fire up the motor, the primary and secondary are both spinning. In park or neutral, I believe the primary should be spinning and not turning the belt. It seems the primary is not disengaging all the way, if I am correct.

Any thoughts on what to do here? Just pull the primary and rebuild it? I am thinking I want a clutch kit anyway....

Tom

 

So...I talked to a mechanic friend of mine who understands these clutches far better than I and he offered to help me out. Will post back what we find tomorrow or the next day after I bring it over there.

 

The belt is always supposed to be tight, but in neutral at idle or engine off the belt on the primary side rides on a bearing on the shaft. The sides of the primary only start to grip the belt as it spins up.

So if the belt won't spin freely on the primary with the engine off (or not spin at idle with the engine running) it is either caused by the bearing being bad or the sides of the primary are not fully open and they are grabbing the belt.

Take a picture similar to the following of the belt and primary if you can and post it.

Notice in this pic the belt isn't getting grabbed by the sides of the primary, so if it had an issue it would be the bearing.

 

Here is my pic. Looks like it is hard against the inner side. Also, looks like some rust is in there. That is kind of shocking....I have never even had this in water, not even a puddle.

 

Another pic...maybe not so bad in terms of alignment???

 

It looks clear of the sides to me, I'm guessing the bearing is the likely problem.

You can take the belt off and check to see if the bearing is spinning using some channel lock pliers.

 

That bearing should spin freely by hand.

 

The bearing does spin freely by hand in both directions. I reached the camera in on the front of the primary and it looks like the belt is snug on both sides. Feels that way as well.

 

With the rzr off and belt on turn the secondary. Does the primary bearing move and not sound like crap? The belt is going to be kinda snug on the primary sheaves. Also with the belt on take a pic showing both clutches to see where the belt is riding

 

Took the primary off and gave it a good inspection. What I didn't see when it was on was this little bugger of a belt remnant wedged into it so it would not open all the way. Must have came out of the port up top and fell into the clutch. Removed it and problem solved, works great.

 

Nice and easy