Take it easy at first. Let it go thru about 3 heat cycles. Iran mine a few minutes then turned it off and let it cool a bit. Don't get too aggressive with the brakes.
You will want to see how fast it is, just don't try to get top speed.
Everything has to break in, including your belt

Enjoy that new muffler smell!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

There's a couple break in procedures listed in the manual. I did the dune break in because it required less time (I wasn't in the dunes though). Then I just took it easy for a few rides and didn't do any sustained WOT.

I did have to nail the breaks hard once during the break in but you gotta do what You gotta do to avoid crashing hah.

Also check your coolant levels when you are giving it a rest. This was suggested to me by a buddy and mine was actually leaking coolant by the end of the first day.

 

Do a search on here about this there are 2 different trains of thought, 1 baby it 2 run it hard, the first 10 mins. Is when you set your rings regardless of what you do you need the heat cycles
(my dealer told me Not to baby it most problems are from taking it too easy ) enjoy and good luck. Low range at first. I broke mine in at Pismo in the sand

 

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Very good read.

 

The issue with that article is it only focuses on the cylinder rings. So sure if you race and want to break in a new topend in quickly for the most compression you can try to run it hard. Not a good way to do it for a new vehicle IMO other things are best worn in more slowly.

Hell, on some newer street bikes, they have a limiter until they hit a certain mileage, and only then will they allow you to go full throttle. I'm sure the manufacturers designed them this way because it causes more wear, right? What about transmission axles differentials? They don't need break-in and you should just pin it to win it so those rings seat?

I don't doubt it will make the engine run hard if you seat those rings well, but what does it do to the longevity of the engine and the rest of the vehicle....

 

Drive it like you stole it. It will push the piston and rings farther up cylinder wall. New motors are nothing like the use to be the walls come a lot smoother than they use to. Witch means there is no need to run them easy to smooth them out.

 

How will it push the rings father up the cylinder wall? Maybe into the cylinder wall harder but if they go farther up your going to detonate...

But again your only addressing the piston rings and cylinder wall...

 

Has nothing to do with race engines. It's all about cylinder pressure and seating rings. Taking it easy is the worst thing u can do it. Not saying go out and beat the hell out of it. Want to get into it for short runs over and over. A friend and I have 2010 camaro's. Both superchRged and cams. Only difference is he did heads and some other mods. He broken in easy and I followed the article. Even with less mods my car made 75hp more at the tires. Run them for like this for a few years. Both of us went to 427 builds. His Pistons liked like the bad ones in the article. Mine looked new still. His 427 was broke in the hard way lol

 

good read and info

 

I broke my belt in mostly being somewhat nice to her, once she had some brisk low range and some high range (put some heat in and cooled off the belt a long time before starting again. I was in sand FYI) after belt was worn in a bit I just ride it how I ride it.

 

1) let it warm up before taking off
2) always vary the throttle
3) no wide open throttle

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

Break in is all in the first 20 to 30 minutes in the shop for cam and lifters sake only and done by varying engine speed, After that drive it like you stole it. I have built many engines that went from the engine stand to the race track. If an engine builder tells you that you need to break in his engine he is either afraid of his work or he just don't get it.

 

What about the breaks, belt, clutch, differentials, axles, transmission, and suspension? Those all need to break in too.

 

skinny pedal to the floor.

 

Yes. They do. In my case all of these are well used already. For a brand new unit everything needs to be run in gently.

I have always used the varying speed method with a few short hard throttle presses during my break-ins. A few short rides and then it's all good.

 

We've owned almost every model and we let the engine warm up, drive it gently for ten minutes then let it cool down and repeat the process for a half tank of gas .

It works for us. That piston has the durability of a diet coke can so running it in easy is my method.

 

We've owned almost every model and we let the engine warm up, drive it gently for ten minutes then let it cool down and repeat the process for a half tank of gas .

Man that must take a long time.

 

Beat the hell out if it from the first start up! If something is going to break it's better it does sooner than later. Polaris may deny warranty work if you put a sticker on the hood or something dumb like that after a week or two!!

But seriously I have raced all my life and I've never babied an engine breaking it in. Run it like you are going to run it normally. All my engines have lasted longer than expected and I'm sure it's because I didn't follow recommended break in procedures!! The first 10-20 min is critical run it hard under a load to expand the rings as far as you can. That's the key

 

Give it about 5 min, then drive it like you stole it��

 

So everyone is kind of all over the map and everyone's engines last long.

Just don't baby it is the only common practice.

 

U can believe what u want but dyno's don't lie and the conditions of the Pistons don't either. U can clearly see the proof in Pistons in the article. Some will do it the easy way some will do it the hard way. As a mechanic I take motors apart everyday and have never seen a motor let go because a hard break in. Worse thing to do to any engine is to lug it. When I was drag racing bikes we broke them in on the track. If something isn't right in the engine it's going to show up right away. Think about how Polaris looks at it. If some is wrong do they want you at 4000rpms or 8600rpms when it breaks. It's all about warranty cost IMO.

 

Well I'm not a mechanic but I have rebuilt my Banshee plenty of times over my 15 years of owning it. Rings always seat fine starting easy 1/2 throttle and working my way up to WOT. After a tank of gas I consider it broken in. I have never had a problem with low compression from improper break in and the last time I did't even have the cylinder honed (They are nickasil now nd i didn't want to replate). My pistons always have looked fine too. The way I would treat a drag motor is very different from the way I would treat a car or SxS motor that I don't intend to go through before the event, or even once a season.

When do i get low compression? From running it hard and wearing out the rings due to heat etc at high RPMs (much higher than a RzR will go). Rings will eventually wear in then wear out. I feel that pinning the throttle to seat the rings will certainly work to get them seated faster but your basically just accelerating wear and neglecting letting the rest of the machine settle in. You could also get excessive heat...

But my point on a new SxS is that other parts need to break in too, it's not just the rings that need to seat. So just gunning it probably isn't a great idea. I certainly took it easy on mine for a bit varying the throttle, and worked up to full throttle for short bursts. It' easier to give it more gas if you keep it in 4wl so that the other parts can break in and you can still load the motor.

 

Plus I never said my Camaro had 75hp more stock. When dynoed they were fresh motors with different cams and added superchargers. There was nothing stock about them so what Chevy tested doesn't mean anything in our case. I have seen cars stock make 20hp more compared to another stock one. It's all in break in

 

So break it in hard. Balls to the wall after a few warm ups.

 

Breaking it in hard doesn't mean beat the shit out of it. Start it let it warm up and then make some quick hard throttle runs. Never cruise for a long time. Keep it at different rpms. Do not do heat cycles just let it warm up then ride.

 

Ya that's what I was told. Never hold it wide open to hit top speed. That's a given.

 

Think of it this way. You want the motor to work. On and off the throttle to build cylinder pressure to force the rings to seat. Make some half throttle runs and then work your way up to 3/4 to full throttle short runs.

 

This method is right on. The idea is to build pressure under the rings and force them into the cylinders when they are new. This is when the hone if the most sharp and will in essence sand the rings to a good seal.

The drive it like you stole it method of break in, is the no break in method.

Be sure and read your owners manual, keep the rpms from getting high and heat cycle it.

 

Also change your oil after break in. Just did mine after about 5 hours of running. Need to get all the metal out of the oil from break in. When I changed mine I went to a different oil because in Florida it's insane hot and Polaris wants a thicker oil. Also went to a oil filter with a anti drain back valve.

 

I had many drag banshees and yes I would not break them in this way either. A 2 stroke is a different animal. Heat cycles yes and you had to worry about jetting. Just can't go out and lay into it and not worry about jetting. Also during heat cycles never just let it idle.