is that a fine thread 3/4 bolt

 

Yes. 3/4 inch diameter, 4 inches long, 16 threads/inch (fine). Standard course thread is 10 tpi.

 

Good deal, I'm considering tacking this next on my upgrade list. Which kit did you go with & where did you end up buying it?

 

I bought from "Swingarm 1" here on the forum. If you search for him, you will see... I gave him him my info. (RZR type, where I ride, tire size, etc...) and he sent me what I needed. It all was easy and worked well, Paypal, then the stuff was here in a couple of days. The instructions were from Holtz, I assume that's where the equipment did too.

 

Pulled mine of yesterday using the bolt tool. Cost me like $3.25 for the bolt, way cheaper than the special tool. I used a 3-1/2" bolt worked just fine. I will say stick the biggest socket you can get to fit thru the clutch so as not to damage the end of the crankshaft.

 

For what it's worth, I didn't pull the primary off. I just took out the center bolt (it will BARELY clear the gas tank, but it does), then take out the 6 other bolts and swap it all while still in the RZR. Did it today, went smooth. This was how the instructions even said to do it. Just thought I'd share.

 

I bought a clutch kit for my machine and installed it yesterday. I read on this forum the primary could be removed without spending $40.00 or more on a special tool. All you need is a 3/4" x 4" bolt and two 1/2" sockets (one normal and one deep). Worked perfectly.

You will probably run into the issue that alot of people have ran into including myself while using a homemade puller such as the one you pictured.

It works great, once, twice, or even four times. But after that engine has some miles on it and the crank shaft has been through a number of heat cycles is when that style of homemade puller wont work.

What happens is that the crank shaft loses a very small tad bit of hardness. This is either through the whole crank because of heat cycles or its just at the tip during the pressure added while removing the clutch. But whatever cause this it results in the tip of the crank ever so slightly swelling when you push against it with the puller. Harder you push the little bit more it swells casuing that clutch to lock on even tighter. It doesnt deform or anything like that.

Only way around this is to get the polaris puller that reacts against the inside of the crank and through the threaded hole. That has to be a tiny shaft and I wouldnt use anything weaker then Tool Grade steel if i was going to be cheap and make my own.

So dont get to excited about your puller. After a few miles and a few pulls it wont work again.

 

Quote: So dont get to excited about your puller. After a few miles and a few pulls it wont work again. Quote:

And then you mess up the end of your crankshaft, didn't save any money then, been down that road on snowmobiles. Now I use the correct puller.

 

Note to self :
don't always listen to all of the Do It Yourself ideas on this forum .

years ago I read a similar thread about the Do It Yourself clutch removal tool .
so I went out to my shop and threw something together and got it jammed in the end of the crank .

I ended up having to take it to a machine shop to have them remove a piece from the end of the crank .

lesson learned

 

you can find pullers for $18 to $30 all over

 

You don't have to use a torque wrench either. Point being, cutting corners will eventually catch up with one. Do it right the first time.

 

You don't have to use a torque wrench either. Point being, cutting corners will eventually catch up with one. Do it right the first time.

Nah, you think? Then we wouldn't have any OH SHIT! goof-ups to read about on the Forum. LMAO!

Cheers

 

I suppose there is some economic fall out also. With no goof-up and nothing getting torn up then there would be minimal need for vendors. Minimal vendors means fewer need for employees. I guess I should retract my statement before it causes economic collapse.

 

:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3:

 

You would think if you could spend $16K on a rzr, you could spend $40 on a puller.

Matt

 

ya you are right I was even at the dealer and asked about the tool...$32

So I had to eat some crow when I brought my RZR back with my home made tool sticking out of the crank.

$32 would have been a bargain compared to what the machine shop charged.

 

After looking at the clutch removal tool, what it is, how it works, etc... replicating it's overall function is not that complicated.

How often do most people need to remove the primary clutch, very infrequently.

It's a free world, people can decide whatever they want to... but I try not to buy things I really don't need and/or will not use. I also think there is a lot to be said for being self sufficient.

As far as supporting business or Polaris, it is up to them to create enough value to earn my money. It is not up to me to throw money at them in order to make their business work.

There are my $.02

 

Spot on comments. "Toolless" installation is a must for parts not covered under a warranty.

BTW; you have the best avatar I've ever seen.k: R.Nouis

 

Here's mine.
The verdict is that 3.00" to 3.50" will work.

Yes, many already gave the length but I still measured the heck out of mine to make sure. Too much damage at risk. $5.

 

This is going to create problems for you on the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th time you try to pull the clutch.


If you built your own tool because you didn't want to wait is fine. But order it now and you will have the right tool next week. That way you have it when you need it.

That is great that most everybody here can build this tool. It's a no brainier but what mos here can't do is heat treat it nor built it from tool grade steel. This is something that you should spend the $40 on and not be a cheap ass.


Here is what the right tool looks like as it pushes on the inside of the crank through the threaded bore. Also the new design from Polaris.

Here is the wrong tool from Polaris. It's the old design that pushes on the tip of the crank.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 3 HD

 

SLP has them for $28.95. Hardened/tempered, and coated steel, with the end exactly-sized so that it won't damage the crankshaft. I carry it with me; makes it easier to change-out a belt out on the trail. FWIW..........

Cheers

 

SLP has them for $28.95. Hardened/tempered, and coated steel, with the end exactly-sized so that it won't damage the crankshaft. I carry it with me; makes it easier to change-out a belt out on the trail. FWIW..........

Cheers

You pull the primary to change a belt out on the trail? No need to do that, here is the easiest way to change a belt:

Not everyone has an HD secondary like shown in the video. So you either have to wrestle the belt off or remove one of the clutches. If I had to remove a clutch to replace a belt, I would remove the secondary. They usually come right off. They are not torqued as high as the primary when reinstalling.

 

After seeing many people break their home made pullers and costing big $$ I won't even attempt it without the correct puller. I put a clutch kit in my Rzr and the only reason I didn't buy the primary puller was because I didn't have to remove the whole primary clutch to install. Me and a buddy made the tool to compress the secondary to change the helix

 

great photo ↑ Eman,
I saved it to my clutch folder with Eman0993 as prefix.
asking nicely, if you made one again would it be exactly the same or tweak it any to improve?
cause many of is may try that.

 

More difficult to get to belt than change it

 

You pull the primary to change a belt out on the trail? No need to do that, here is the easiest way to change a belt:

Did you watch all the vid? it tells you that--and shows you a procedure how to just pull up on the belt and remove it--piece of cake man. Not a need in the world to take any of the clutches off just to change a belt.

Yes, I have watched that video (or a similar one) numerous times, and have used this method to remove and replace the belt, and it works well in the relative comfort of your shop or garage. However, if you disintegrate a belt out on the trail, this method won't help you with gaining access to all of those aramid fibers that are wrapped around your crank and transmission shafts, and, if you simply install your spare belt and try to carry-on, those wrapped-up fibers will, without a doubt and very quickly, friction-heat your seals and cause them to fail, allowing the respective lubricants to be released into your clutch-housing and bringing your whole program to a belt-slipping, messy, and, ultimately, expensive halt. Several members of this Forum have previously found this out the hard way! Much better to remove the Primary and Secondary clutches and, carefully, cut, yank, and pull those birdnest's of tangled fibers off of your shafts, BEFORE installing your spare, replacement belt. Now, pulling the Secondary, as everyone knows, is an easy, simple, and straightforward process, but I haven't met anyone yet who can remove the Primary without a puller. NOW, I ask you, how much is that Primary-puller in your trail-side toolkit worth???.........Think about it......

Cheers

 

Where can i buy one OEM tool..?

 

online just about anywhere! Many of the vendors on this forum will stock the tool.
I have the SLP version
I own alot of machines and am often pulling clutches.. primary puller is not a place to skimp..