Get power direct from battery but wire in to accessory on position by tapping into orange wire off of ignition for your switches so you don't drain you battery by accident. Then they will only work while the ignition is on.

 

I have two front flood lights, a horn and a backup light to install.

I am new to this and would like to know how to tap into the orange wire. From there I plan on connecting to a 30A relay with power feed from the battery.

Any special techniques to tap into the orange wire? Or should I look for a feed off the fuse panel?

Your advice is appreciated.

 

i ran a larg gage wire from battery up to firewall and installed a 10 gang 70 amp fuse box i also have that wire from battery fused also...

 

x2, this is what I did also. I also did a fuse box in the battery compartment and did 2nd fused strip on the firewall for ignition connections.

 

Thanks guys. What size wire should I run to the new fuse box. Would #12 or #10 be good enough or should I go bigger and would the fuse block have to be water proof. I don't do the deep water thing but I do get muddy

 

if you know how the relay works,
a. run a 10gauge wire from battery to your relay, "with a in-line fuse" high amp
b. run a 10gauge wire from relay to power a fuse block or power strip
c. ground the relay
d. use the orange wire under dash, to trigger the relay powering up the wire to the fuse block or power strip, this is a key on power wire normally taped up under dash behind the light/4wd switches with a female bullet style connector on it.

heres a wire diagram i made of my rzr, winch circuit not in included i haven't finished diagram on that section.

on my system i have 4 power circuits available, and 4 key-on circuits
i added a 8 fuse accessory block found on e-bay for less then $10
used 2 extra relays for less than $10 for both
i didn't use a water proof fuse block but did use die-electric grease in EVERY connection, mounted fuse block under dash on floor pan/fire wall.
been useing this set up for 6 months, no issues. although i don't drive like its a submarine either.

 

if you know how the relay works,
a. run a 10gauge wire from battery to your relay, "with a in-line fuse" high amp
b. run a 10gauge wire from relay to power a fuse block or power strip
c. ground the relay
d. use the orange wire under dash, to trigger the relay powering up the wire to the fuse block or power strip, this is a key on power wire normally taped up under dash behind the light/4wd switches with a female bullet style connector on it.

on my system i have 4 power circuits available, and 4 key-on circuits
i added a 8 fuse accessory block found on e-bay for less then $10
used 2 extra relays for less than $10 for both
i didn't use a water proof fuse block but did use die-electric grease in EVERY connection, mounted fuse block under dash on floor pan/fire wall.
been useing this set up for 6 months, no issues. although i don't drive like its a submarine either.

that is very similar how i started building mine. Great diagram by the way!! i'll have to get some more pics later. i'll get some before i do the wire covering up.

do you have a part number or a link to the 80 amp relays?

 

Trav:

Thanks for your fast response.

You design is more or less what I have in mind with the exception that I have fewer components to wire to.

My question is how do you tap into the orange wire? Please bear with me as I am learning.

 

look under your dash where your harness connects to the switches, you'll see a orange wire not connected to anything, it normally has black tape wrapped around it to the main harness. or just hang'n loose. this wire gets power when the key is turned on. its there for accessories. follow my diagram at the top "key on +" square, i used standard relays found at local auto stores. they normally have numbers on the back labeled 30,87,87a,86 and 85.
useing the orange wire your lights or what ever will only work if the key is turned on, preventing a battery drain. just make a wire with "bullet" connector on it and plug into it.
pic of added fused block

plan a head, you may only need 1 or 2 power leads now, but in 6 months? you may need more.... easier to added them now than to re-wire later.

 

look under your dash where your harness connects to the switches, you'll see a orange wire not connected to anything, it normally has black tape wrapped around it to the main harness. or just hang'n loose. this wire gets power when the key is turned on. its there for accessories. follow my diagram at the top "key on +" square, i used standard relays found at local auto stores. they normally have numbers on the back labeled 30,87,87a,86 and 85.
useing the orange wire your lights or what ever will only work if the key is turned on, preventing a battery drain.

Thanks. It is a little dark now. I will look for this stand alone orange wire to-morrow.

I have a feeling the dealer might have used this wire to connect to the winch that they put in for me. If it is used, what should I do?

 

Installed this on the firewall and ran 4g power wire to the battery. Have it fused right at the battery. I used one terminal for my winch and the other fuse for all my other accessories, which include uhf radio,shark audio 100 watt stereo,home made heater,and manual fan over ride.

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All my accessories come off a painless wiring 7 circuit fuse box I added. 3 are always hot so I don't have to run the hours up when listening to the radio or 2 way. Easy way to do it and keep you from having 5 wires coming off the battery

 

yea, i bet they used it.. just un plug it, plug the red winch wire into your new fuse block, use the orange wire to trigger the relay. that orange wire only has like a 20 amp fuse on it so it won't handle many accessories ran off it.

 

yea, i bet they used it.. just un plug it, plug the red winch wire into your new fuse block, use the orange wire to trigger the relay. that orange wire only has like a 20 amp fuse on it so it won't handle many accessories ran off it.

I am clear now. Thanks...

 

I got the painless fuse block and a grounding block from black rhino easy to install it comes with everything to hook up

 

summit racing sells them between $70-$130 a piece.
i ordered mine on-line $4.50
Auto Control Circuits DC 12V 80A General Purpose Relay | eBay

 

thank you for the link. yesterday i stopped by the auto zone while out in town (which can be an event in it's self), and tried to see if they had something similar.... they did find a 70 amp (not sure what he used as a cross reference)...... and it was $35....i kinda cringed, and told them to hold that thought!

i'll order a couple of them off flea-bay!!

did you fab up a mounting tab? the one i'm using now has a molded mounting tab on it. i'm sure it wouldn't be much of an issue to fab one up real quick.

 

Not cheap, but if any of you mud boggers need a waterproof relay/fuse box, I carry this once, very high quality, made in the USA

https://www.alpinesandtoys.com/WaterproofRelayFuseBox

 

the one i linked you too has a slot built into it for a metal mount tab, sold seperatly, i ran a 1/4" wide zip tie through the slot and tie'd it the round frame tube under the dash. in my fuse block photo you can see the relay & wires hang'n above the fuse block.

 

good deal. gotta love zip ties.... like i've always said "zip ties save lives"! handier than duct tape if ya ask me, lol!!

i ordered a couple of them. just for extras at that price!

i'm working on the relay block for the accessories right now.

 

no, or maybe? i used a 80amp cause of multiple accessories and didn't want to risk over loading the relay. i maybe only drawing 30-50 amps while driving but wanted to be safe.
you need to know how much draw each led, whip, radio, ect. is gonna have & get a relay big enough to handle it.

 

been setting up my auxiliary wiring system the last few weeks. it mirrors the diagram that TRAV has posted pretty close. i had a few variations from the start but same concept.

the first pic is the fuse block, the main positive strip and negative strip next to the aftermarket block. i have a 50A relay wired up with a maxi fuse right above the factory fuse block (pic 2). the third pic is the relay block that i mounted under the hood. i mounted 5 relays for accessories. i've wired up the front fog lights to one relay already, planning on rear work/back up lights, maybe a second fan, and a couple extra for accessories down the road.

 

Hey Team Mudd. I decided to run individual relays for each accessory. How did you run power to each relay? Did you run individual wires with fuses on each from the battery or did you use jumpers from a common fused line?

 

wow, terminal strip and fuse block, looks like you could have hook ups for like, 15 accesories? dang! you run'n daul or triple batteries with this?
looks good so far.

 

LOL, thanks. believe it or not a lot of the wiring accessories are from my old mud drag truck. yes, it probably is a bit of an overkill....but ya never know, these rzr's are pretty addicting lol! i would like to add another battery later on.

 

Is it possible to plug a 200w amp into this orange wire to work or is this a big no-no?!

 

As for hooking the orange wire to the main power of the amp..... probably not!! Now if you're wanting to use the orange wire to hook to the REMOTE connection on the amp, then yes you probably can! This would turn your amp on when you turned the key on.

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anybody familiar with this fuse box?

ST Blade Fuse Blocks - PN - Blue Sea Systems

I am wondering if this could be used in our RZR's. They are a marine product so I would think it would hold up well. Looking to add more switches and would need a fuse block.

voltage Maximum Operating 32V DC
Amperage Maximum Operating (per circuit) 30 Amps
Fuse Type ATO® or ATC® fuses
Screw Terminal #8-32 Screws with captive star lock washer
Mounting #8 Screw (M4)

 

That is the one I used on mine. 12 pos/neg terminals. Easy to work with.

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Did you run additional relay's? I Plan on adding switches for stereo, horn, and an aux for lighting later. Also did you connect your existing switches to this?

 

In my opinion, I'd leave the factory switches on the stock harness. Yes they can probably handle more of a load than stock, but since you're adding an auxiliary fuse block, you can have everything tied to the box a stand alone system, or make it a switched 12v.

I left all mine in the factory harness, and my auxiliary fuse block is energized by the key. When the key is turned on it energizes a relay to send power to the fuse block. This also help eliminate the possibility of leaving a switch on. When I turn the key off, everything turns off.

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I have never done any electrical on these things. Is the relay required? I would prefer to be able to switch on the power to the stereo without turning the key on. The orange wire that is talked about is this hot? I was thinking power and ground to the fuse box from the battery and then leads to the stereo and horn from the switch... Am I missing something here?