Because we have so many people asking the same questions... I decided to start a "part 2", to the LTR450 shock thread. The original thread can be seen here:
http://www.rzrforums.net/suspension/38960-ltr-450-shocks.html
This page may change over time, as new info comes in, so watch for updates.
Thanks to everyone who has put effort into the original project :beer3:
So... here is the basic info needed to mount the LTR450 and YZ 125 shocks to a 50" RZR
Shock info.....
Suzuki LTR450 (front shocks)
Length eye-to-eye: 17"............. 4-3/4" stroke
Bushing: 10mm (roller bearing, for less binding)
Spring preload (lowest setting): n/a Lbs.
Spring Rate: Progressive 120 ~ 220 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length: 11-3/8". ~ 9.5 free coils, 10-3/4" Installed Length. (center of adjustment)
Preload adjuster range: 1-1/2"
Note...
The LTR450 shock has adjustable compression, and rebound, with a remote N2 chamber.
YZ125 REAR shock: '00, '01 (to be used on the rear of a standard RZR)
Length eye-to-eye: 19-1/8"............. ~5.5" stroke
Bushing: 10mm (roller bearing, for less binding)
Spring preload (lowest setting): n/a Lbs.
Spring Rate: 257 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length:
Preload adjuster range: 3-1/8"
Note... Update 7-9-11
The YZ125 shock has adjustable High speed, and low speed compression, and rebound, with a remote N2 chamber. The same physical shock is used on the 2000 until the present time "YZ" models. (125, 250, 250F, 426F, 450F) But, there are valve, and spring differnces over the years. You can use shocks from any year, or from any of the bikes... you just want to make sure you buy two of the same shock.
The new YZ shock info can be seen here:
http://www.rzrforums.net/suspension/51218-part-2-ltr450-yz125-shocks-std-rzr-13.html#post679138
FRONT OEM Polaris No: 814902001182 Mfr: Sachs/Mexico
RZR
Length eye-to-eye: 11,50"/ 16.25"............. 4.25 stroke
Bushing: 13/32 (10mm) ID, 5/8 OD, 1 3/16 long
Spring preload (lowest setting): 220 Lbs.
Spring Rate: 100 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length: 12.375", 6.5 free coils, Installed Length: 10.25"
Preload adjuster range: .625"
REAR OEM Polaris No: 814902001183 Mfr: Sachs/Mexico
RZR
Length eye-to-eye: 12.57"/ 18.5".................6 inch stroke
Bushing: 13/32 (10mm) ID, 5/8 OD, 1 3/16 long
Spring preload (lowest setting): 220 Lbs.
Spring Rate: 170 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length: 13.5", 8.5 free coils, Installed Length: 12.125"
Preload adjuster range: .625"
rzr-s 13"/19.25 front 15"/ 21.25" rear.....6.25 stroke.
*******
LTR450 Mounting info....
Just for a visual in this thread.... here are some pic of my LTR450 front shocks. These shocks look like they will work great. As we've talked about before, the springs are progressive, and much heaver than the stock springs. Also, since these shocks have a little longer stroke, the droop (without the sway-bar) is about 1-3/4" more than the OE shocks... and it extends the front travel to just over 10". To take advantage of the extra droop, and the extra travel, you will need to disconnect the sway bar. (it will bind as the suspension drops) I guess I should add... there is no CV binding in the front end with the the extra droop.
Since I'm not the first person to try these shocks up front... we already know that they work.
One last thing. The shock on the driver's side has to be mounted with the N2 chamber facing forward. To get the clearance, you will need to add a small spacer under the bottom bolt of the coolant bottle. That will push the hose out, and keep the shock from rubbing it.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
YZ 125 Mounting info.....
OK... I got them mounted up... and before I get into any of the info, I need to say something.
On a 2011... there is NO WAY that you can have a lift in the rear. After jacking up the rear, I measured from the edge of the wheel, to the point of the "R" on the rear fender, and it was 19". Once the shock was off, if I pushed it down to 19.5".... the CV would bind. So... there is only 1/4" more droop, over stock on the 2011 RZR.
Here are the donor shocks. These are stock 1999 Yamaha YZ125 rear shocks.
![Image]()
Because of the binding... I decided that I want the rear suspension at the factory doop. (don't want to blow my CV's) There was enough meat in the mount, so I just drilled some new holes in the bottom mount. To get the stock droop, you will need to drill new holes at 0.586" from the edge of the original mounting hole, and 0.386" from the edge of the mount. By normal engineering standards, you want at least a hole's distance from the edge... but since the force is in line with the mount... and since these shocks have an actual bearing in the eye... we are fine.
***** UPDATE 1-22-12, and a WARNING *******
When mounting the rear shocks, make sure you have the brake line moved to the outer edge of the mount, where it goes under the shock. (tight in the corner of the mount) Basically, make sure it's not directly under the shock. On one side of my RZR... I loosened the banjo bolt at the caliper to move the hose. There has been a report from RD350 that he bent the bottom bolts, and it was pinching the break hose.
UPDATE (6-29-11) ********************
There have been a few people try to mount the YZ shocks in the stock location... and it won't work. The reports have come back, and it has been tried in about all the years. So, you will have to mod the mount to make them fit.
UPDATE #2 ********************
A nice member named "grnzrz" made up a template for people who are worried about drilling in the wrong spot. You can get it here:
http://www.rzrforums.net/suspension/51218-part-2-ltr450-yz125-shocks-std-rzr-10.html#post672656
![Image]()
After that... you can just mount the shocks using the factory hardware. You will need some spacers. They seem to fit very well, and leaving the springs at the stock pre-load position... the RZR will settle about 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" under it's own weight.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
*******
Good starting point for adjustments.....
**** Updated 6-16-11*****
(these are the settings I'm running right now)
Front LTR shocks:
Removed the front swaybar
Tightened the pre-load about 1/4" from stock
Rebound set to 1/2 turn out
Compression is set to 1 turn out
Rear YZ125 shocks:
Swaybar still hooked up
Pre-load stock
Rebound set to 4 clicks from tight
Compression set to 5 clicks from tight
*****
Ride Report for the LTR, and YZ shocks.......
Hi guys,
Sorry I didn't post this sooner, but I was wiped out after yesterday. We did 50 miles of VERY tight, woods trails.
OK... before I get started... you have to take anything I say with a grain of salt. This is still a 50" RZR, and there is no way to make shorter suspension ride like a Cadillac.
Let me start with... WOW. Money well spent.
The day started at 9 am at the Tri-County club near Indiana, PA. The trails there are rocky, and tight in most places. But the club also offers 2 MX tracks, Drag Strip, Tractor pulling, and a play ground for the kids.
Four of us headed out of the main camp grounds, and took an easy pace into the hart of the park. We eventually found our selves picking up the pace, and the first time I noticed how well the LTR shocks were working was when we came up to a washed out trail, and the front wheels were following the terrain without being harsh, and I was still in full control. I do have the front sway bar off... but even with that... the LTR shocks weren't letting the body roll hardly at all. The problem was... I still have the rear swaybar on... and as soon as the rear got to the rut, it would drop in. I think for the next trip, I may either loosen, or remove the rear swaybar.
During the day... I only noticed one or two times when I hit the bump stops. I think the front shocks can use a little tweak to the compression... but I am happy with the rebound.
The other time I was amazed with the cheap ebay shocks was when I was dared to go up a steep, rocky hill. I turned on the 4wd, and put the throttle down. The shocks allowed the RZR to skim over the top of the rocks, and feel smooth. At a higher speed... the shocks actually seemed to work better.
I wanted to take the RZR to the MX track... but as we got to the track... someone had crashed, and they were bringing in "Life Flight", and they closed down the track for the day. But, there were a few places on the trail, where I got the front end off the ground, and when it came down... the LTR shocks deceled the RZR before it hit the bump stops.
One thing I would like to add at this point... even with a few sections of high speed... I never noticed that the shocks were fading. That is probably due to the shocks being Nitrogen charged.
At this moment... I can't give a clear review on the rear YZ shocks because the rear sway bar made the rear a little harsh. But... I can say this... even hitting large rocks, and trees laying over the trails... the rear never bottomed hard enough for me to think there was a problem. Regardless... the rear wasn't lacking, and it wasn't any worse than the stock shocks. I think if I loosen the rear sway bar, and adjust the compression and rebound... it will make it ride better. Where I did notice the YZ shocks being better than the stock shocks was when I was going faster than 25 mph. At the higher speeds... the RZR would stay flat, and had a more controlled feel, where the stock shocks would be a little bouncy.
With all that said... if you have a set of stock shocks that have crapped out... the LTR/YZ conversion will be cheaper than stock replacements... and they work very well. (and are rebuildable, and are fully adjustable)
I don't have any good action pics... but here's a couple from the day. :beer3:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Lift Info
There are a bunch of people who are running a "Lift" in conjunction with the LTR shocks, but I do not recommend it. If you decide to try, please verify that you do not have any CV bind and full droop, and full turn. Regardless, the LTR shocks provide an 1-3/4" more droop over stock, and in turn are effective as a 2" lift.
stock shocks sagging after the first ride.
![Image]()
LTR shocks in the front, and YZ's in the rear. Lift, with a WAY better ride.
![Image]()
http://www.rzrforums.net/suspension/38960-ltr-450-shocks.html
This page may change over time, as new info comes in, so watch for updates.
Thanks to everyone who has put effort into the original project :beer3:
So... here is the basic info needed to mount the LTR450 and YZ 125 shocks to a 50" RZR
Shock info.....
Suzuki LTR450 (front shocks)
Length eye-to-eye: 17"............. 4-3/4" stroke
Bushing: 10mm (roller bearing, for less binding)
Spring preload (lowest setting): n/a Lbs.
Spring Rate: Progressive 120 ~ 220 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length: 11-3/8". ~ 9.5 free coils, 10-3/4" Installed Length. (center of adjustment)
Preload adjuster range: 1-1/2"
Note...
The LTR450 shock has adjustable compression, and rebound, with a remote N2 chamber.
YZ125 REAR shock: '00, '01 (to be used on the rear of a standard RZR)
Length eye-to-eye: 19-1/8"............. ~5.5" stroke
Bushing: 10mm (roller bearing, for less binding)
Spring preload (lowest setting): n/a Lbs.
Spring Rate: 257 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length:
Preload adjuster range: 3-1/8"
Note... Update 7-9-11
The YZ125 shock has adjustable High speed, and low speed compression, and rebound, with a remote N2 chamber. The same physical shock is used on the 2000 until the present time "YZ" models. (125, 250, 250F, 426F, 450F) But, there are valve, and spring differnces over the years. You can use shocks from any year, or from any of the bikes... you just want to make sure you buy two of the same shock.
The new YZ shock info can be seen here:
http://www.rzrforums.net/suspension/51218-part-2-ltr450-yz125-shocks-std-rzr-13.html#post679138
FRONT OEM Polaris No: 814902001182 Mfr: Sachs/Mexico
RZR
Length eye-to-eye: 11,50"/ 16.25"............. 4.25 stroke
Bushing: 13/32 (10mm) ID, 5/8 OD, 1 3/16 long
Spring preload (lowest setting): 220 Lbs.
Spring Rate: 100 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length: 12.375", 6.5 free coils, Installed Length: 10.25"
Preload adjuster range: .625"
REAR OEM Polaris No: 814902001183 Mfr: Sachs/Mexico
RZR
Length eye-to-eye: 12.57"/ 18.5".................6 inch stroke
Bushing: 13/32 (10mm) ID, 5/8 OD, 1 3/16 long
Spring preload (lowest setting): 220 Lbs.
Spring Rate: 170 Lbs per Inch
Spring Free Length: 13.5", 8.5 free coils, Installed Length: 12.125"
Preload adjuster range: .625"
rzr-s 13"/19.25 front 15"/ 21.25" rear.....6.25 stroke.
*******
LTR450 Mounting info....
Just for a visual in this thread.... here are some pic of my LTR450 front shocks. These shocks look like they will work great. As we've talked about before, the springs are progressive, and much heaver than the stock springs. Also, since these shocks have a little longer stroke, the droop (without the sway-bar) is about 1-3/4" more than the OE shocks... and it extends the front travel to just over 10". To take advantage of the extra droop, and the extra travel, you will need to disconnect the sway bar. (it will bind as the suspension drops) I guess I should add... there is no CV binding in the front end with the the extra droop.
Since I'm not the first person to try these shocks up front... we already know that they work.
One last thing. The shock on the driver's side has to be mounted with the N2 chamber facing forward. To get the clearance, you will need to add a small spacer under the bottom bolt of the coolant bottle. That will push the hose out, and keep the shock from rubbing it.
YZ 125 Mounting info.....
OK... I got them mounted up... and before I get into any of the info, I need to say something.
On a 2011... there is NO WAY that you can have a lift in the rear. After jacking up the rear, I measured from the edge of the wheel, to the point of the "R" on the rear fender, and it was 19". Once the shock was off, if I pushed it down to 19.5".... the CV would bind. So... there is only 1/4" more droop, over stock on the 2011 RZR.
Here are the donor shocks. These are stock 1999 Yamaha YZ125 rear shocks.
Because of the binding... I decided that I want the rear suspension at the factory doop. (don't want to blow my CV's) There was enough meat in the mount, so I just drilled some new holes in the bottom mount. To get the stock droop, you will need to drill new holes at 0.586" from the edge of the original mounting hole, and 0.386" from the edge of the mount. By normal engineering standards, you want at least a hole's distance from the edge... but since the force is in line with the mount... and since these shocks have an actual bearing in the eye... we are fine.
***** UPDATE 1-22-12, and a WARNING *******
When mounting the rear shocks, make sure you have the brake line moved to the outer edge of the mount, where it goes under the shock. (tight in the corner of the mount) Basically, make sure it's not directly under the shock. On one side of my RZR... I loosened the banjo bolt at the caliper to move the hose. There has been a report from RD350 that he bent the bottom bolts, and it was pinching the break hose.
UPDATE (6-29-11) ********************
There have been a few people try to mount the YZ shocks in the stock location... and it won't work. The reports have come back, and it has been tried in about all the years. So, you will have to mod the mount to make them fit.
UPDATE #2 ********************
A nice member named "grnzrz" made up a template for people who are worried about drilling in the wrong spot. You can get it here:
http://www.rzrforums.net/suspension/51218-part-2-ltr450-yz125-shocks-std-rzr-10.html#post672656
After that... you can just mount the shocks using the factory hardware. You will need some spacers. They seem to fit very well, and leaving the springs at the stock pre-load position... the RZR will settle about 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" under it's own weight.
*******
Good starting point for adjustments.....
**** Updated 6-16-11*****
(these are the settings I'm running right now)
Front LTR shocks:
Removed the front swaybar
Tightened the pre-load about 1/4" from stock
Rebound set to 1/2 turn out
Compression is set to 1 turn out
Rear YZ125 shocks:
Swaybar still hooked up
Pre-load stock
Rebound set to 4 clicks from tight
Compression set to 5 clicks from tight
*****
Ride Report for the LTR, and YZ shocks.......
Hi guys,
Sorry I didn't post this sooner, but I was wiped out after yesterday. We did 50 miles of VERY tight, woods trails.
OK... before I get started... you have to take anything I say with a grain of salt. This is still a 50" RZR, and there is no way to make shorter suspension ride like a Cadillac.
Let me start with... WOW. Money well spent.
The day started at 9 am at the Tri-County club near Indiana, PA. The trails there are rocky, and tight in most places. But the club also offers 2 MX tracks, Drag Strip, Tractor pulling, and a play ground for the kids.
Four of us headed out of the main camp grounds, and took an easy pace into the hart of the park. We eventually found our selves picking up the pace, and the first time I noticed how well the LTR shocks were working was when we came up to a washed out trail, and the front wheels were following the terrain without being harsh, and I was still in full control. I do have the front sway bar off... but even with that... the LTR shocks weren't letting the body roll hardly at all. The problem was... I still have the rear swaybar on... and as soon as the rear got to the rut, it would drop in. I think for the next trip, I may either loosen, or remove the rear swaybar.
During the day... I only noticed one or two times when I hit the bump stops. I think the front shocks can use a little tweak to the compression... but I am happy with the rebound.
The other time I was amazed with the cheap ebay shocks was when I was dared to go up a steep, rocky hill. I turned on the 4wd, and put the throttle down. The shocks allowed the RZR to skim over the top of the rocks, and feel smooth. At a higher speed... the shocks actually seemed to work better.
I wanted to take the RZR to the MX track... but as we got to the track... someone had crashed, and they were bringing in "Life Flight", and they closed down the track for the day. But, there were a few places on the trail, where I got the front end off the ground, and when it came down... the LTR shocks deceled the RZR before it hit the bump stops.
One thing I would like to add at this point... even with a few sections of high speed... I never noticed that the shocks were fading. That is probably due to the shocks being Nitrogen charged.
At this moment... I can't give a clear review on the rear YZ shocks because the rear sway bar made the rear a little harsh. But... I can say this... even hitting large rocks, and trees laying over the trails... the rear never bottomed hard enough for me to think there was a problem. Regardless... the rear wasn't lacking, and it wasn't any worse than the stock shocks. I think if I loosen the rear sway bar, and adjust the compression and rebound... it will make it ride better. Where I did notice the YZ shocks being better than the stock shocks was when I was going faster than 25 mph. At the higher speeds... the RZR would stay flat, and had a more controlled feel, where the stock shocks would be a little bouncy.
With all that said... if you have a set of stock shocks that have crapped out... the LTR/YZ conversion will be cheaper than stock replacements... and they work very well. (and are rebuildable, and are fully adjustable)
I don't have any good action pics... but here's a couple from the day. :beer3:
Lift Info
There are a bunch of people who are running a "Lift" in conjunction with the LTR shocks, but I do not recommend it. If you decide to try, please verify that you do not have any CV bind and full droop, and full turn. Regardless, the LTR shocks provide an 1-3/4" more droop over stock, and in turn are effective as a 2" lift.
stock shocks sagging after the first ride.
LTR shocks in the front, and YZ's in the rear. Lift, with a WAY better ride.
