[Supercup]

I pulled it out of the garage and took some photos in what was left of the daylight. I have to say the flares are really growing on me. I wasn't a big fan of the gray factory fenders and the Seizmik flares tone them back a lot. I had considered ordering all black fenders to swap out all of the gray but now I am pretty happy with the way it looks.

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Looking good!

 

[RojoLoco]

That is one fine looking machine Seth! I have one on order, hopefully i can get it in a reasonable timeframe.

 

[RockPeakUTV]

I am totally stoked! After having these seats for nearly 6 months, I finally have them installed in my Turbo R. PRP is now shipping their new seat brackets for the RZR Pro models: Pro XP, Turbo R and Pro R. The new brackets are just about perfect. The brackets bolt straight to the PRP seats with 4 bolts and then allow you to pop the PRP seats in and out just like the factory seats using the factory seat latches. They have some adjustment built into the brackets for forward/back slide positions that allow for some fine tuning of the seat positions. This is especially nice on the passenger side of a 2 seater like mine where the passenger seat only has 2 positions, all the way forward or all the way back. The new brackets also allow you to still use all of the factory adjustments available, forward/back and recline settings. The seats do sit about 2" higher than the stock seats. This is fine with me at 6'1" tall, I still have plenty of head room but now have slightly better sight lines over the dash and hood. The one thing they don't have is a release handle that connects to the rear latches, but it is really easy to just reach around the back of the seats and push the release hooks.

You can order the new brackets here at Hardline UTV:
PRP V2 Quick Release Seat Mount Brackets for the RZR PRO XP - TURBO R

 

[RockPeakUTV]

Ordered my Jemco PXP Xtreme on Wednesday and received it on Sunday. It was a snap to install. 195L of storage capacity goodness. Glad to finally be able to fit all my stuff back in my machine. The 73Qt box from Polaris was good but just not big enough.

 

[Supercup]

Ordered my Jemco PXP Xtreme on Wednesday and received it on Sunday. It was a snap to install. 195L of storage capacity goodness. Glad to finally be able to fit all my stuff back in my machine. The 73Qt box from Polaris was good but just not big enough.

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Problem - where is the cooler going to go! I was more careful with "stuff" in the 73 QT to be sure the 23 QT cooler would fit! 🤣

Are they going to make a box like that for Pro R?

 

[RockPeakUTV]

Here's most of my gear in there. In the area in the front, there is a perfect spot for an Assault cooler. I had one but I sold the cooler to the guy who bought my Turbo S. I had test fitted the Assault cooler in this box when I had one here for a customer a while ago. I will be ordering one asap.

 

[RockPeakUTV]

I took the Turbo R up to the mountains for a ride last Sunday and I quickly discovered that the hinges on my new Jemco PXP Xtreme cargo box are just a little loose and pop out too easily. See video:
Jemco PXP Xtreme loose hinge
If the lid was shifted just a little bit right or left on the cargo box, just opening the box all the way would cause the hinge to pop out. It was pretty irritating. I thought of several ways to fix it on the drive home. I eventually came up with the fix below that I am pretty proud of. I took some pics for anyone else that might run into this issue.

I reached out to my contacts at Motoalliance/Jemco to let them know about the issue and also showed them how I fixed it.

I purchased some Tee nuts, counter sunk screws and some shoulder bolts at the local Ace hardware. I wasn't sure how long the shoulders would need to be on the bolts so I purchased two shoulder bolts with a slightly longer shoulders. I ended up using the shorter ones.

The holes for the screws that hold the Tee nut in were not counter sunk so I just used the tip of a 1/4" drill bit and counter sunk the holes a little.

Next I drilled a hole in each side of the lid in the center of the hinge for the Tee nut to be inserted. I drilled the hole for the Tee nut so that it was tight enough that I had to tap the Tee nut in. Don't make this hole too big or it won't be very strong.

Here I inserted the Tee nut and put the two screws in the holes to hold the Tee nut in place. I'm sure those little screws would rip out pretty easily but any force on them from opening the lid will not be pulling on them. If the hole for the Tee nut is tight, I think it will be pretty strong.

Next I drilled a hole in the cargo box side of the hinge that is just big enough for the shoulder of the shoulder bolts to go through. The shoulder bolts will be coming through from the back side of this hole and into the Tee nut in the lid side.

I found a washer in my misc leftover nuts, bolts screws and washer bin. In this pic, I just put the shoulder bolt and washer into the T-nut lid to show how it works. After this pic, I took the bolt back out and installed the lid back onto the cargo box as normal. With the reduced clearance from the Tee nuts on the ends of the hinges, I had to use a flathead screw driver to pry the hinges back in place when installing the lid. This reduced clearance alone from the Tee nuts would probably keep the lid in place but I took it a step further by installing the shoulder bolts.

It's not super fun to reach but you can get up in the cargo box and install the shoulder bolt and washer from inside through the holes and into the T-nuts in the lid. The lid and hinges are 100% secure and better than new I think. Photo from inside of the cargo box showing the shoulder bolt head after it's installed:

Here are the item SKUs at ACE:
2X Shoulder Bolts:

2X Tee nuts:

4X of these little counter sunk screws:

All in about $9 and it shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes to do the whole job.

 

[RockPeakUTV]

I wanted to post an update on the Seizmik fender flares. Overall I am very pleased with them so far. It is so nice to drive through mud or water and not get hit all over with drops of muddy water or chunks of mud anymore. They don't block everything but it is a massive improvement. The difference in how dirty the interior gets is very evident of how well they work. I hit one water crossing hard just to see what would happen. A lot of water came up on the windshield but very little hit me or my passenger. The 35s will scrub just a little on the outer lip of the front fender flare when the front suspension is fully compressed but it's very minor and only over jumps or g-outs. If you hit the X (oh shit) button over a jump or whoop, it won't scrub at all. I always hated the way fender flares looked but I really like these.

The last trip out was also my first trip with the PRP GT3 seats. You just can't describe how much better you feel after 50 miles of rough trail when you have good seats and harnesses holding you in place.

Just send me a PM, text or call if you want a member price on PRP Seats or Seizmik flares.

 

[K9Steve]

Your machine is looking awesome. I just got the same one and starting to accessorize. I did the Polaris high coverage front bumper with Polaris 6000 pound winch and 10” rigid light bar. I’m now looking for a rear pull plate. Does anyone know of a aftermarket company making a pull plate for the Turbo R that you can retain the rear plastic that covers the stock muffler and still be able to access the rear transmission fill plug. I see a lot for the Pro R but the Pro R plastic doesn’t go down as far as the Turbo R. I found that S3 makes one for the Pro Xp with minor trimming but my understanding is that the Turbo R has the same radius rod bolt pattern as the Pro R.

 

[RockPeakUTV]

@K9Steve congrats on your new machine. You should have hit me up for a price on the winch and full coverage bumper and light bar!

I have not seen a radius rod/pull plate for the Turbo R like you are looking for. I assume you know there is a recovery point though right behind and under the stock radius rod plate? It's not in a great location and you probably want to carry a d-ring to be able to hook to it.

 

[RockPeakUTV]

A few weeks ago I installed a Zbroz Stage 1 Spring kit on the Turbo R. After two rides now with the kit, I can tell you it is just as big of an improvement in ride quality on the Turbo R as the kit on the Turbo S was. Well worth the money. I did a write up on the install here and a full review of the springs here.

This is the front shock with the suspension at full droop! So much travel on these cars!

 

[RockPeakUTV]

On Saturday I installed my A-arm guards from Factory UTV. I am very impressed with how well they fit the contours of the Turbo R A-arms. On previous model RZRs with round tubing A-arms, Factory UTV always used a clamp type system to hold them onto the A-arms. With the Pro R and Turbo R A-arm guards, they use 5x 1/4-20 counter sunk alan bolts that require drilling and tapping into the bottom of the A-arms. Do yourself a favor and invest in a high quality 13/64" drill bit for the job and it should be a breeze. I have a pretty low quality tap set but it seems to do the tapping job just fine. Overall the whole install took less than an hour. I didn't find it much more labor intensive than the A-arm guards on a Turbo S or XP 1000 as some of the nuts were always a pain to get to on the clamp systems. Now that the job is done, I have to say I prefer the tapped holes to the clamp system because I can zip the bolts out from the bottom with an impact and uninstall or re-install the A-arm guards in less than a minute. There are three things I like about A-arm guards, the protections of course, lower cost vs. aftermarket A-arms that won't have guards, and the flotation for snow. Yes you lose 3/8" of ground clearance on the A-arms but it's well worth it IMO. BTW, the A-arm guards for the Pro R and Turbo R are the same. When you tighten the bolts, make sure you tighten them down enough that they are slightly beyond flush with the surface of the UHMW. At first the counter sunk holes don't seem deep enough and the bolts will still be hanging a little below the UHMW material leaving them susceptible to getting snagged on rocks. Just crank the bolts a few more turns, the UHMW is soft enough to make way for the bolts to sink in a little more below flush.

I held the guard up onto the A-arm and then started to drill the first hole. Then I took the guard down, finished drilling the first hole and then tapped it. When I finished the first hole, I put the guard on again and then bolted it down tight with the first bolt. I did the rest of the drilling and tapping with the guard in place adding the bolt for each respective hole after it was tapped.

I think this is a "Popular Mechanics" brand tap set that I probably got at K-mart 25 years ago when I was poor.

The fit of the A-arm guards is impressive.

 

[BondoMan]

On Saturday I installed my A-arm guards from Factory UTV. I am very impressed with how well they fit the contours of the Turbo R A-arms. On previous model RZRs with round tubing A-arms, Factory UTV always used a clamp type system to hold them onto the A-arms. With the Pro R and Turbo R A-arm guards, they use 5x 1/4-20 counter sunk alan bolts that require drilling and tapping into the bottom of the A-arms. Do yourself a favor and invest in a high quality 13/64" drill bit for the job and it should be a breeze. I have a pretty low quality tap set but it seems to do the tapping job just fine. Overall the whole install took less than an hour. I didn't find it much more labor intensive than the A-arm guards on a Turbo S or XP 1000 as some of the nuts were always a pain to get to on the clamp systems. Now that the job is done, I have to say I prefer the tapped holes to the clamp system because I can zip the bolts out from the bottom with an impact and uninstall or re-install the A-arm guards in less than a minute. There are three things I like about A-arm guards, the protections of course, lower cost vs. aftermarket A-arms that won't have guards, and the flotation for snow. Yes you lose 3/8" of ground clearance on the A-arms but it's well worth it IMO. BTW, the A-arm guards for the Pro R and Turbo R are the same. When you tighten the bolts, make sure you tighten them down enough that they are slightly beyond flush with the surface of the UHMW. At first the counter sunk holes don't seem deep enough and the bolts will still be hanging a little below the UHMW material leaving them susceptible to getting snagged on rocks. Just crank the bolts a few more turns, the UHMW is soft enough to make way for the bolts to sink in a little more below flush.

I held the guard up onto the A-arm and then started to drill the first hole. Then I took the guard down, finished drilling the first hole and then tapped it. When I finished the first hole, I put the guard on again and then bolted it down tight with the first bolt. I did the rest of the drilling and tapping with the guard in place adding the bolt for each respective hole after it was tapped.
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I think this is a "Popular Mechanics" brand tap set that I probably got at K-mart 25 years ago when I was poor.
View attachment 712291

The fit of the A-arm guards is impressive.
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I chuckled at your Kmart taps/dies and thought they’re probably better than most available ones today. Then I looked closer and saw USA stamped in them. Old junk tools are often not junk

 

[RockPeakUTV]

I chuckled at your Kmart taps/dies and thought they’re probably better than most available ones today. Then I looked closer and saw USA stamped in them. Old junk tools are often not junk

I looked a little closer at the box they were in and it say manufactured for Walmart. They were probably one of the last things made in the USA that went on a Walmart shelf lol!

 

[RockPeakUTV]

After an unfortunate incident on the trail that broke my Viper winch, factory bumper cover, fascia and bent my intercooler radiator, I decided to get a little more coverage and protection and swapped out the Viper winch and Rough Country winch mount for the Polaris HD Winch and Polaris High Coverage bumper. The Polaris winch and bumper were stupid easy to install. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was cut the harness that goes to the winch controller port and wired it to a carling style winch rocker switch on the dash. Since the winch comes with a wireless controller, I didn't see the need for the wired controller. I also did not connect the wire for the auto stop sensor.

The Rough Country winch mount plate is super solid and didn't budge an inch but it doesn't protect the sides of the winch that are behind the plastic cover.

 

[BondoMan]

Any more details on this unfortunate incident? Video? 😉

 

[RockPeakUTV]

@BondoMan it was a case of icy/snowy ruts on a slight downhill grade and not being able to get completely stopped or steer out of the ruts in time to avoid an "obstacle" in the middle of the trail.

 

[Supercup]

Hope the obstacle came out without too much damage!

 

[Hvlrgr]

Looking good !

Thinking about those motoravage in a 37 for my pro r 4 seat for east coast ….how you liking them so far ?

 

[RockPeakUTV]

Looking good !

Thinking about those motoravage in a 37 for my pro r 4 seat for east coast ….how you liking them so far ?

The tires have been pretty awesome so far. I would say they are a medium compound so if you do a lot of driving on gravel and asphalt, they are going to wear quicker than some but the tread blocks are just so HUGE that you are still going to get some good mileage out of them. For rocks, mud and snow, they kick @ss . @Hvlrgr I'll send you a forum member price on them in case you want to order with me.