Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

Need help solving a camber issue

6.2K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  mlaneusmc  
#1 ·
I put my long travel kit on and and the passenger front is out 3+ degrees compared to the driver at current ride height. Driver reads zero. Factory A arms read zero on passenger. I have measured every way I can think of to try and figure out what is off. I did not install ball joints and the ball joint cup angle is the only thing I have not checked side to side. While I was putting it all back together for the 3rd, 4th or 5th time, the ball joints (Keller) slipped in past where the bolt would hold them and my angle finder read zero. In my head I keep thinking something is wacky with the ball joints, but they should be able to compensate if not installed correctly, right? I have 2.5 days into this trying to see what I am missing. I’m thinking tomorrow I am going to remove the Keller’s and install the factory joints just to eliminate that. Side to side the top center adjustment nut on the Keller measurements are the same top and bottom measured from the mounting bolts for each arm. What am I missing / should check or recheck before taking it to the shop I ordered the kit from on Tuesday? Also is there any special way to press out kellers without damaging them?
Image
 
#3 ·
I have driven it, the back had a lot of settling to do and that was my thinking on the ball joints. Just grasping at straws now. It is the L&W kit. In theory, the top is longer or the bottom is shorter, but I can’t seem to find that measurement difference. I currently have the springs off and jack stands holding both sides equal for measurements.
 
#6 ·
It’s not 4” off, at most an 1/8” in 10”. I’m going to measure everything one more time tomorrow, throw the front shocks back on and drive it around my track a bunch more. If it doesn’t settle into place, then to the shop it goes when they open Tuesday. Since I ordered from the shop, I’ll let them deal with L&W.
When I was looking into them, I couldn’t find anything negative on them. I should have sucked it up and bought HCR. Too deep now to change course.
 
#7 ·
It’s not 4” off, at most an 1/8” in 10”. I’m going to measure everything one more time tomorrow, throw the front shocks back on and drive it around my track a bunch more. If it doesn’t settle into place, then to the shop it goes when they open Tuesday. Since I ordered from the shop, I’ll let them deal with L&W.
When I was looking into them, I couldn’t find anything negative on them. I should have sucked it up and bought HCR. Too deep now to change course.
I’m sure they’ll get you lined out!
 
#14 ·
geometry question here, but should't both A arms measure out the same??? it's a triangle basically, so couldn't you measure the front tube of each lower a arm, and then the rear tube, compare those measurements between the two a arms, and rinse/repeat on the top a arm?

I guess that's assuming each side is symmetrical to the other. measuring the old arms would tell us if they're symmetrical or not.

it sure seems like it's a arm manufacturing issue, but you should be able to measure it for proof as you mentioned.
 
#16 ·
I put my long travel kit on and and the passenger front is out 3+ degrees compared to the driver at current ride height. Driver reads zero. Factory A arms read zero on passenger. I have measured every way I can think of to try and figure out what is off. I did not install ball joints and the ball joint cup angle is the only thing I have not checked side to side. While I was putting it all back together for the 3rd, 4th or 5th time, the ball joints (Keller) slipped in past where the bolt would hold them and my angle finder read zero. In my head I keep thinking something is wacky with the ball joints, but they should be able to compensate if not installed correctly, right? I have 2.5 days into this trying to see what I am missing. I’m thinking tomorrow I am going to remove the Keller’s and install the factory joints just to eliminate that. Side to side the top center adjustment nut on the Keller measurements are the same top and bottom measured from the mounting bolts for each arm. What am I missing / should check or recheck before taking it to the shop I ordered the kit from on Tuesday? Also is there any special way to press out kellers without damaging them?
View attachment 719539


The Keller ball joints are not the problem. There is something wrong with the a arms. The either the bottoms are too short or the tops are too long. Could be a little of both. Send them back to the manufacturer for warranty or a refund. If the company will not refund/replace you will have to discard them or fix them yourself. Let me know if I can help. I had a set of arms that I had to cut and weld to get them to come into spec.
 
#19 ·
Oof. That sucks, you're like the 4th person I've heard having issues. I know it doesn't help now, but HCR lowered their prices recently and aren't that much more expensive for boxed and tig welded arms. The quality is amazing. If I were you I'd be trying to get my money back and go that route.
 
#20 ·
We’ve sold quite a few ORB long travel kits with no issues from customers. We’ve sold several superatv suspensions with no issues. Lifetime warranty and proven performance and success.

these issues with this brand seem pretty common.