I am just posting this as an example of a heater setup that may help others that are interested in installing a heater in their vehicle.
The vehicle is a 2017 Polaris RZR Trail EPS.
Parts I used:
UNIVERSAL CAB HEATER UTV SKIDSTEER 12 VOLT 16,000 BTU-- EBay - $190
3/4 NPT 3-Way Forged Brass Ball Valve -- $25
2 - 3/4 NPT 1" Barb - $1.25 ea
1 - 3/4 NPT 5/8 Barb $1.25 ea
1 - 3/4 NPT 5/8 Barb Elbow - $1.25 ea
2 - 90 degree 5/8 elbows - $1.25 ea
1 - 1" Male 3/4 NPT Female 1" Male $0.80
8 - Small clamps - $0.80 ea
4 - Medium clamps - $1.00 ea
5/8 Heater Hose $10
Total = 252.70
I started by mounting the bracket for the heater in the cab.
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I placed washers beneath the bracket to raise it up a bit over the point on the center tunnel.
After attaching the bracket I mounted the heater core to get an idea of where I needed to drill the holes in the firewall to run the heater hose.
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After taking the measurements I drilled 2 holes to pass the heater hose through.
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Next was cutting the OEM radiator hose, and installing the 3-way. I cut the OEM hose around 6 inches up, so the hose started to point up when turned.
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I then cut a small piece just big enough to fit both 1" barbs of the 3-way, and the T fitting. I had to remove another approximately 6 in section after the T fitting to get the OEM radiator hose to be in the proper angle back to the radiator.
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After the 3-way, and T are in place you can measure and cut out the 5/8 heater hose to the proper length. I used a small piece of heater hose to install the 90 degree elbows above the inlet, and outlet of the heater core.
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I finished off running the wires to a rocker switch in the dash to turn the fan on and off, as needed.
![Image]()
To bleed the system, after refilling the radiator with coolant, I found it easiest to just jack up the front of the RZR with the radiator cap off, and let the vehicle run. When the thermostat opens, and sucks the coolant into the system, simply keep filling the radiator until no more is needed. I bleed the system in the bypass heater core position first, then diverted to the heater core, going back and forth every couple fan cycles until I was sure there were no air bubbles in the system.
I tried to use the bleeder screw by the exhaust port, but I was not very successful. The bolt needs to be turned almost all the way out for coolant to flow out, which is very difficult with the added heat shielding in the way. I may have also turned the bolt to far out, and dropped it on the skid plate a few times before giving that idea up.
All in all the project took me a couple hours, and was not that difficult. This setup allows me to bypass the heater core during summer to keep the cab from overheating, while still allowing me to turn the fan on to get some much needed circulation in the foot area of the vehicle. If we decide to go on a night ride, and it gets a little chilly, one simple flip of the valve allows either some radiant heat, or forced heat via fan. It is very nice in the winter also, you can see heat waves billowing out the cab when stopped.
The vehicle is a 2017 Polaris RZR Trail EPS.
Parts I used:
UNIVERSAL CAB HEATER UTV SKIDSTEER 12 VOLT 16,000 BTU-- EBay - $190
3/4 NPT 3-Way Forged Brass Ball Valve -- $25
2 - 3/4 NPT 1" Barb - $1.25 ea
1 - 3/4 NPT 5/8 Barb $1.25 ea
1 - 3/4 NPT 5/8 Barb Elbow - $1.25 ea
2 - 90 degree 5/8 elbows - $1.25 ea
1 - 1" Male 3/4 NPT Female 1" Male $0.80
8 - Small clamps - $0.80 ea
4 - Medium clamps - $1.00 ea
5/8 Heater Hose $10
Total = 252.70
I started by mounting the bracket for the heater in the cab.
I placed washers beneath the bracket to raise it up a bit over the point on the center tunnel.
After attaching the bracket I mounted the heater core to get an idea of where I needed to drill the holes in the firewall to run the heater hose.
After taking the measurements I drilled 2 holes to pass the heater hose through.
Next was cutting the OEM radiator hose, and installing the 3-way. I cut the OEM hose around 6 inches up, so the hose started to point up when turned.
I then cut a small piece just big enough to fit both 1" barbs of the 3-way, and the T fitting. I had to remove another approximately 6 in section after the T fitting to get the OEM radiator hose to be in the proper angle back to the radiator.
After the 3-way, and T are in place you can measure and cut out the 5/8 heater hose to the proper length. I used a small piece of heater hose to install the 90 degree elbows above the inlet, and outlet of the heater core.
I finished off running the wires to a rocker switch in the dash to turn the fan on and off, as needed.
To bleed the system, after refilling the radiator with coolant, I found it easiest to just jack up the front of the RZR with the radiator cap off, and let the vehicle run. When the thermostat opens, and sucks the coolant into the system, simply keep filling the radiator until no more is needed. I bleed the system in the bypass heater core position first, then diverted to the heater core, going back and forth every couple fan cycles until I was sure there were no air bubbles in the system.
I tried to use the bleeder screw by the exhaust port, but I was not very successful. The bolt needs to be turned almost all the way out for coolant to flow out, which is very difficult with the added heat shielding in the way. I may have also turned the bolt to far out, and dropped it on the skid plate a few times before giving that idea up.
All in all the project took me a couple hours, and was not that difficult. This setup allows me to bypass the heater core during summer to keep the cab from overheating, while still allowing me to turn the fan on to get some much needed circulation in the foot area of the vehicle. If we decide to go on a night ride, and it gets a little chilly, one simple flip of the valve allows either some radiant heat, or forced heat via fan. It is very nice in the winter also, you can see heat waves billowing out the cab when stopped.
