I run the same setup with Adam’s clutch. 32 on dirt, 30 in dunes. First I’d get rid of the blow hole it is hurting you in wide open situations such as dunes and desert riding. Now if you’re a trail guy spending a lot of time under like 6500 rpm the blow hole works. Adams clutch in particular pulls and moves much more air than stock, so you’re definitely suffocating it causing higher temps.

In open desert with 32” I run cover on, have cvt blaster and the mo flow exhaust. I never see belt temps over 200 unless outside air is really hot, like 90+.

In dunes I tend to run no cvt cover. My belt temps are always below 200 as well without the cover. With cover, I’ve seen my temp get up to 218. That’s running hard in the middle of the dunes on a long ride. Before Adam that simply wasn’t possible as I’d be over 230 almost instantly and 240+ was easy to hit after 5 mins of dunes and that’s when belts tend to break. So with Adam I’m no longer in those extreme heat ranges. Can it still get hot sure but a lot of that has to do with type of riding, cvt cover on or off, outside air temp, and finally tire weight. They heavier your tire weight combo is the more stress it puts on the drivetrain, thus higher belt temps.

 

I would definitely blame the big tires. What tire and wheel combo are you running?

 

Dstew if your profile is correct you have a 2017 XP 4 Turbo and OP has the 2018 XP 4 Turbo, I believe you two have different gear ratio's stock with the advantage for bigger tires/wheels going to you with your lower gearing. I have 0 experience here just going off of forum armchair quarterbacking. That and the blowhole restriction at wide open could be the difference between your temps and OP, add into that if his wheel tire combo is significantly heavier. Just some ideas

 

I do have a 17. I thought the 18 had the same gearing as a 17, I could be wrong though. If you're correct and it has even higher gearing than the 17, then yes that would aid in higher belt temps as well. In which case, the ultimate fix would be to regear the rear diff. Something I've been wanting to do myself so I can run 32" paddles safely.

Regardless, I still think the blowhole is hurting his temps. The airdam setup moves some serious air with larger fins on both the primary and secondary than the OEM clutch has.

I'm also willing to bet his tires are pretty heavy, which with higher gearing is a recipe for disaster. Airdam while the best in the business, can still only compensate so much.

 

Have you checked belt overtravel?

 

17 XP4 was lower geared than the 18 XP4, yes.

Gear reduction didn't help me.
Removing the blowhole didn't help me.
No clutch kit has helped me.
Venting the clutch cover didn't help me.
A primary clutch fan didn't help me.
Never pulled the trigger on Airdam, but I don't see it helping me either, especially after reading this post, and another member's recent experience as well.
I have no overtravel or alignment issues.

I have zero belt temp issues until I hit WOT, then the belt temp goes up about as fast as the speedometer (slight exaggeration). It will stay below 180 damn near anywhere or in any condition, and it cools down fast too with the blowhole and vented cover, but I just have an anomaly of a machine that nothing has solved the problem on. Hope you don't have one too. I've probably beat the topic to death across 10 other threads, but, let me know if you find something that actually works!

 

What did the gear reduction do for you? What change did you notice? What was the final reduction, 22% one?

Asking because I'm considering doing one.
I have a 2018 xp4 turbo with dynamix. I have the blowhole with a rzr back gauge. I bought a new CVT intake tube just to do a comparison due to extreme belt temp problems like yourself. Found the blowhole had minimal affect on temps. While over 6500 I didn't see a HUGE difference, maybe 5 degrees hotter with it in, but when I slowed down with it in, the temps drop way faster than not having it.
I also did BMP's cyclone primary fin cover, and didn't notice a big difference to justify the price tag.
no overtravel or alignment issues either, I have checked
I had AA's clutch kit with high load helix, shit was a waste, belt temps do better with the stock clutch kit and stock helix. I spent a weekend trying all different weight combo's, taking out AA's helix to swap with stock.
Found that the dam stock clutch setup did better than the aftermarket kit. (again I have the shity 18 with high gearing, this could be why the kit sucks for me)
I will punch it and watch the temps climb over 230 as I hit 65mph+,flat ground, no elevation change.

your not the only one with anomaly of a machine, lol

but back to my question, I'm very curious what gear reduction did change or do. Thanks!

 

That sounds like classic overtravel, have you done the test on the road then and not in the air like my video?

 

It does indeed sound like "classic" overtravel....and I've done the test everytime I've had my secondary off which is at least 30 times, on the road, in the garage, anywhere it's been driven, and I still mark it every time. I've also replaced the secondary clutch, since I thought maybe it was just screwed up from the factory, no change. This is how the marks look, nothing has touched the radius, or the center hub by what I see. Do you see it differently?

 

Looks good to me, I would say you have an anomaly

 

Could be way off base here but if you've ruled out clutches, have you tried someones working clutch setup on yours and yours on theirs? Possibly heat transfer from out of true engine output or xmsn input? not sure if there's bearings there (engine output, xmsn input) either that could be worn?

 

I wouldn't dare ask me friends to let me try their clutches on my cursed machine lol, but I have replaced the secondary, and completely rebuilt the primary, so I've basically had two different clutches throughout the process. I don't think what your saying is impossible, but unlikely, I would see that sort of issues generating other issues as well, like overheating,or burnt gear lube, which i haven't seen any signs of at all.

 

I have a 17 XP Turbo with 32" tires and 32" sand tires. I first installed the Blowhole and loved it. What I really liked about it was have fast the belt would cool down when at a stop. I did find out at higher speeds around 35 mph and up the Blowhole did not work as well as I was hoping. I then installed the Blaster ll. I have the blaster ll on an on off switch. Having both on I can push my ride hard and keep the belt temp in a safe zone. I don't let the belt get over 210. The nice part with both fans going when I stop I can get the belt temp to drop quickly. If I had to choose one it would be the Blaster ll. I really do like having both because of the high volume of air going through the clutch. My clutch stays so much cleaner now.
The last thing is in my opinion you have to have a belt temp gauge. I feel the Razorback is the best on the market.

 

Your belt never gets hot because that car never leaves the garage. There is no way a car that clean ever leaves the pavement. :grin
Very nice, very clean. I wish I had that kind of time.

 

@Bebert @socalbighead are you guys using the snap ring delete kit from AA? or still have the stock snap ring?

 

I’m using a delete kit.

 

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one having problem with the belt temps im on my 8 belt on my 2017 xpt4

 

That’s engine temp, 215 is ok.... if you see 220-225 you should start backing it down


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If you are having issues at the higher RPMs you may want to check out our MoFlow. It is an additional exhaust that we developed based on feedback that the racers we work with were having CVT heat issues at high RPM's for an extended amount of time. Here is the link to the MoFlow on our store. http://desertcraft-us.3dcartstores.com/XPT-MOFLOW-CVT-Exhaust_p_97.html

Let us know if there is anything that we can assist you with

 

@Bebert @socalbighead did you guys ever make any headway or find the magic cure?

 

I just did the AA snap ring delete kit, my snap ring failed on me again, so I had enough of it and replaced it. Secondary opened up so much it rubbed on the clutch cover
Definitely had some over travel issues

I also did the Hunterworks primary washer/spacer in addition to the factory black one (speed limiting spacer)

I will update when I get a chance to run it and see what the belt gauge says !

 

Just slow down when your belt gets too hot and let it cool. Find out how hot your belt is by using a belt temp gauge. Here are some to look at.

Search: 23 results found for "belt temp gauge"

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Add one more 2018 XPT4 to the list, mine. I haven’t spent as much time trying to fix it yet, but watching the belt temp hit 240-250 easily in the sand was frustrating. I added the belt temp gauge same time I went to 32“ dirt tires so no clue what temps were on stock bighorns. I run the turbo 4S clutch parts (springs/weights/helix) for the 32’s and it will creep right past 220 no problem. Also running the AA snap-ring eliminator kit and a ZRP primary cover (just in case, stock bushing was fine). My sand setup was 28” paddles on stock clutch. Have about 700 miles so far, most of those on the original stock belt (now on a hunterworks), have not broken one yet even with a week at the Oregon dunes fighting high temps the entire time. My buddy did blow a belt on his stock (other than paddles) 2018 XPT4 same dune trip, but doesn’t run a belt temp gauge so no idea how hot his was getting. Maybe ignorance is bliss...

In my mind it feels like airflow, shifting to low and running it hard would bring the temps right back down in the sand but that becomes a pain with the limiter and trying to keep up.

Next step is opening up the exhaust port on the inner clutch case to try and get more air out I guess?

 

Obviously airflow always helps, but I feel it’s just a band aid to this problem. Clutches generate heat obviously, but we’re generating abnormal excessive heat from somewhere and need to figure out where it’s coming from, or why

I ran a vented clutch cover for a while, and an blower, and a primary clutch fan, all together and each individually by itself... all help to a small extent, but since the root cause is still excessive, it’s just not an actual fix. I ran with the clutch cover off too to experiment, it does keep the temps down, but only because it can dissipate heat almost instantly, if you watch the belt temps with the cover off, you’ll still see them creep up way higher & faster than they should be with no cover on ( I saw 180 with the cover off after about a 2 minute run, that shouldn’t happen ). It sucks that you guys all have the problem too, but I’m glad to find people to actually discuss it with that understand what’s goin on.... hopefully we can figure this crap out.

 

So i ordered this kit. Got everything from my local dealer for 225 after tax. They offer a 20% discount on all OEM parts
Man i sure hope this is the answer to the high belt temps on my 18 turbo 4
Needed a new belt, so even if i dont see better belts temps, it will still be kinda worth it..haha

Has anyone tried the kit yet with any luck? better temps on their guage?

Thanks

 

2016-2018 Xp Turbo Clutch Cover 2019+ Update TSB Service...

2016-2018 Xp Turbo and Xp 4 Turbo Clutch Cover Update to the 2019+ design TSB Service Kit part # 2207950 This kit upgrades 2016-2018 Xp turbo and 4 seat outer clutch cover to the 2019+ clutch cover design - comes with cover and air duct, gasket, bolts, AND a new belt This high flow clutch...

www.rzrforums.net

It’s not been awesome as far a fitment and sealing so far....talked to some guys on Facebook who toasted clutches because it didn’t seal and let water in... jury is still out if it actually helps with cooling at all lol

 

This might be a stretch, but has anyone checked the run out on the crank shaft, and transmissin input shaft when the clutches are off with a Dial Indicator Gauge? The amount of money spent on clutch parts with no result has me thinking the problem isn't in the clutches themselves. The heat spikes described in this thread can only happen with a lot of additional friction/mis-alignment. After so much clutch work, it may be worth looking beyond the clutches if only to check off another box.

I have a 2016 Turbo 4, so RZR problems are my forte! Hence, my screen name. Polaris did step up and revise the 2016 clutch with the slider inserts that they stole the design from 3P, but it works so I can't fault them. I also run an AA Clutch kit with AA performance helix, Blaster II with MoFlow set up on an Alba temp gauge that has a built in thermostat that I have set at 140 degrees. I'm going to jinx it here, but.....I have never broken a belt with this set up, ever. I do put on a new belt at the beginning of each dune season, but belt heat and breakage is never a concern of mine.

 

I indeed have checked runout, both shafts are true as can be. I’ve looked at everything possible at this point, engine and trans mount, numerous alignments, countless clutching setups, new clutches, different belts, fans, vents, etc to the moon... nothing fixes the WOT issue, I’ve pretty much just learned to live with it at this point, but it is getting close to clutch maintenance time again... so I might beat my head against the wall over it some more in the near future.

Keep in mind that 140 you’re seeing is air temp, not actual belt temp. We’re all running infrared gauges that actually read the temp of the belt itself, and from my experience, that 140 you’re getting, equates to about 200 on the belt, which is still very acceptable, but not as big of a difference as it may seem.

 

Have two twin 18 turbo Dynamix. One new, one used. The used had a very aggressive clutch kit. Could not keep the belt even close to under 200. When first running it we had hard time keeping it under 280 or so. After much work found the following. Damage to the secondary wear pads. They had flat spots at the corners. Since we were far from home, found a new secondary. Found the helix also damaged. It is suppose to have only one very slight flat spot that one can feel. The damaged one had two. With new secondary and new helix, temps came down but still higher then the new stock unit. Suspect the wear points in the primary are also damaged. Have not invested in the tools to inspect yet.

Purchased the new cover kit. Found on install one may need to use an alignment tool to align the holes to get the cover to install and fit correct. Not a big deal. Feel the back side to be sure it is seated correct.

We are still on our first week of dune use and testing. The temps with the new cover have dropped by 20 degrees or more. In running both turbos side by side we have seen the temps on the “hot” bike are down and better then the stock unit. The over belt temps are fixed. We have observed the new cover keeps the belt cooler under hard use better then the stock one. Under hard use the stock will still reach 200, the other does not. Will reach 200 when we stop after a very hard use cycle.

Going to order a new cover design for the stock turbo unit.

One other mod we did is to add a fan to the primary covers. Sure helps on cool down when stopped.


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Have two twin 18 turbo Dynamix. One new, one used. The used had a very aggressive clutch kit. Could not keep the belt even close to under 200. When first running it we had hard time keeping it under 280 or so. After much work found the following. Damage to the secondary wear pads. They had flat spots at the corners. Since we were far from home, found a new secondary. Found the helix also damaged. It is suppose to have only one very slight flat spot that one can feel. The damaged one had two. With new secondary and new helix, temps came down but still higher then the new stock unit. Suspect the wear points in the primary are also damaged. Have not invested in the tools to inspect yet.

Purchased the new cover kit. Found on install one may need to use an alignment tool to align the holes to get the cover to install and fit correct. Not a big deal. Feel the back side to be sure it is seated correct.

We are still on our first week of dune use and testing. The temps with the new cover have dropped by 20 degrees or more. In running both turbos side by side we have seen the temps on the “hot” bike are down and better then the stock unit. The over belt temps are fixed. We have observed the new cover keeps the belt cooler under hard use better then the stock one. Under hard use the stock will still reach 200, the other does not. Will reach 200 when we stop after a very hard use cycle.

Going to order a new cover design for the stock turbo unit.

One other mod we did is to add a fan to the primary covers. Sure helps on cool down when stopped.


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You’re just gonna make me try it aren’t ya? I was doing so good at resisting too 😂

 

😂 ....

 

I will confirm the kit DOES work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i installed the new cover and instant difference in my belt temps. I was running it hard and i only saw over 200 ONE time. I stayed around 175 in 85-90 outside temp weather.
Im super impressed. keep in mind i did install the BMP cyclone primary fin.

If you have a 2018 style factory clutch cover, swap it out, you wont be disappointed.

It was however a pain to install. I had to take off my cover/rock protector for the trailing arm spring to get mine in. Also be sure to install the bottom half and work your way from there, do the sides, then top. I used the bolts to ensure it popped on. I don't do water/mud all the much but i got in there with my camera and ensured it was uniform and flush as much as possible.

Im not even running my inline blowhole anymore either, wish i didnt waste the money now. but hey its a rzr, so we all make it rain 😂😂😂

 

Pretty cool new product coming from Razorback and Steele racing products guessing it’s there brake cooling fan or one similar, going to be pricy though but I’ve done a fair amount of searching and it’s one of the best quality fans I’ve seen. If it’s the brake one it’s $379 just for the fan, 15amps at full speed and over 500cfm


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That's moving some serious air and I would love that, but I'd imagine i'm also going to be spending $500 a year on new batteries. Truthfully speaking it should be on its own battery and charging system. Too much headache. I'll stay away.

 

Has anyone ever used thermal imaging like a FLIR, aimed at the clutches with cover off? Sounds like an experiment that needs to be done!

 

Interesting thought ... there are some you can buy for about $250.00 that adapt to your cell phone ..like Seek and FLIR
How would you plan on using it? ..in conjunction with a quality IR temp gun or just looking for abnormal hot spots?