I'll be watching and taking notes

Jason

 

If this works for ya, I'm right behind ya.

 

Can't wait to see some more pics of the process! I am starting in on my here in a couple of weeks, so any advice you might have after the install would be greatly appreciated!

 

I did some of the engine tear down after work today. (The first step is to install the shim in the engine). This appears to be the step a lot of people, myself included, are concerned about doing themselves. We will see how it goes...

The RZR shop manual is definately needed for reference, in my case, and should be downloaded and read before work is done. The steps I am listing are general and do not include all the details such as what bolts to take out first etc.

Edit: The 2009 RZR / RZR-S shop manual is now available in PDF.

TIP: Before you take the engine apart, take off the clutch cover. You may need to manually turn the primary clutch to rotate the crank and get the pistons in the right position.

I disconnected the engine coolant hoses from the engine and plugged them. Then I pumped most of the coolant out of the engine with a small hand pump. Coolant still spills everywhere and I am glad I put down a tarp before I started.

Remove the valve cover (7 bolts):

Remove the rocker arms and push rods (bag and tag with location, as they have to go back in original location):

Remove the cylinder head bolts
TIP: You will need a 14mm 12point socket to take these out and retork on install.
12 point sockets can be hard to find. I bought one at Sears.

Remove the head. Depending on your piston position, this is how the cylinders look:
It looks like there is some carbon build up on the piston heads already...

I was surprised to learn that both pistons move up and down in the same direction at the same time, instead of opposite directions. You learn a lot when you tear these things apart!

Thats all for today. More to come...

 

nice so far... can you take a close up of the top of pistons, valve area on head and the cyl walls see how the cyl is holding up.....thanks

 

Both pistons move in the same direction at the same time?.......WOW I'm suprised........
I don't know chit about motors so I'm not sure why I am surprised , just seems like there
would be less stress on the crank if they moved in opposite directions............

 

After watching the valve lifters move in sequence and considering how a four stroke engine works, it makes more sense. When one piston is on the compression and power stroke, the other piston is on the exhaust and intake stroke. So even though they are moving up and down in the same direction at the same time, they are firing on alternate strokes, not at the same time.

Please correct me if I am wrong...

:rzrs:

 

Nice!

don't forget the tips a post on the thread! you won't regret

 

Be sure to Heat wrap your Blue Silicone tube at the inter-cooler
and the header pipe........ I learned the hard way that the heat off the header will burn the Silicone tube.......

 

Be sure to Heat wrap your Blue Silicone tube at the inter-cooler
and the header pipe........ I learned the hard way that the heat off the header will burn the Silicone tube.......

Thanks for the advice Giff.
I have heard about this issue and saw your thread with that picture of the wrap job you did on your exhaust.
The blue charge tube that goes from the turbo to the intercooler does sit very close to the engine head and exhaust.
The tube currently comes with a small heat shield from MCX. I wonder if this will be sufficient?...

:rzrs:

 

This is what I put on my on my blue charge tube......I didn't get one like yours, mine was unprotected. Thats why I put this High Temp sleeve on its good to 1200 Degrees and its only $20. Cheap enough.......Under load that header will glow red. I used standard heat wrap from NAPA on the header ...... here ya go.........Heatshield Products Thermal Hose Sleeving

 

I like how the sleeve you put on protects the entire length of the charge tube. For $20 that is a good upgrade. I will have to order one.
Thanks!

:rzrs:

EDIT: Before proceeding with the next step and using the same method I did to install the shim, another better method should be considered. After learning from my mistakes and trying the other method, other forum members are having less trouble installing the cylinder by leaving the pistons in the cylinder and removing the wrist pins that hold the piston heads to the rods.

Here is a picture posted by milosusa showing this method:

He used some O-Ring tools to remove the circlips that lock the wrist pins into the piston heads:

This method seems to be the better of the two options described below.
I used the harder option because I didn't know how to get the circlips out of the piston heads... Now that milosusa has educated us, you get the benefit of this new information before you start your build! Thanks Milosusa!

End of edit

 

I haven't see the install guide since I did mine ,

Here is some tips for you:

Is better to install the new oil dipstick before the spacer since there is more room to work.

The oil nipple also need to be install while the cylinder is out.


Hope this help out...

 

Back to the build:

After removing the head you pull the cylinder block.
Here is what you will have when the pistons are in the down position:

And in the up position:

I took Dogo X's advice and installed the new dipstick and oil supply line while the head cylinder block was removed:

EDIT: After finding a washer with a rubber seal in the parts bag and consulting MCX, I learned that this washer is installed on the adapter for the oil supply line. Here is how that end of the assembly installs:

End of edit.

After a little cleanup, you are now ready to install the shim.
You need more than both hands to do the next step, so I didn't take any pictures.

It is my understanding that there are two methods of reinstalling the cylinder block on top of the shim:

Option 1: Remove the heads of the pistons by pulling the retaining clip and pin, installing the pistons into the cylinder block, then holding the cylinder block with the piston heads inside it above the engine, reinstall the pins and clips that connect the piston heads to the rods, and set the cylinder block down on the shim. (Don't drop the clips down into the engine if you choose this method. Cover the engine cavity with a towel to catch anything you drop.)

Option 2: Leave the piston heads on the rods, hold the cylinder block above the engine and feed the piston heads into it by compressing the piston rings and slide the cylinder block down on the shim.

I tried to pull one of the clips that holds the pin into the piston head, but didn't have any success. Maybe it requires a special tool or "know how" that I don't have. So I abandoned option #1 and went with option #2. You will need an extra set of hands, or two, for this step. I had one helper (thanks Don!)

I sprayed the shim with copper coat.
Tip: This is something that does not currently come in the kit so you will need to get it at your local auto supply store.
Link to Permatex product: Permatex

EDIT: VERY IMPORTANT! LET THE COPPER COAT SET UP BEFORE INSTALLING THE SHIM (This may take SEVERAL hours, depending on your ambiant temp and humidity). READ THIS WHOLE THREAD AND YOU WILL SEE WHY!
End of edit.

Once both sides of the shim are prepared, install it on the engine and procede with the sequence described in option #1 or #2 above, I chose #2.
The hardest part of the cylinder block installation is compressing the piston rings on both pistons at the same time and getting both of them to slide back into the cylinder block. I don't think I could have done it alone. It took about 5 minutes with two of us working on it, but we got everything lined up and slid into place without causing any damage (that I know of).

Once the cylinder block is in place the rest of the engine assebly is easy.
Install the new head gasket and the head and just reverse the process of taking the head off following the torque requirements as shown in the service manual. After the valve cover is back on, it looks like this again:

:rzrs:

 

sweet!!!!!!!

 

Next is the fuel injector installation.

If you have the old style throttle body you can drill a hole in a boss on top of it and install the injector there.

Tip: You will need a 10mm drill bit for the old style throttle body.

If you have a new style throttle body like I do (and all RZR-S I think) you will need to install an injector mounting tube in front of the throttle body. On friday afternoon I noticed that this part was missing from my kit. I called MCX and they sent one next day air with Saturday delivery. It arrived this morning. So once again the customer service from MCX is just as good as advertised.

For both styles a hole is drilled and tapped on the side of the throttle body for a barbed fitting that will connect to a hose going to the EFI box.

Tip: You will need a 5mm drill bit and a M6 tap to install the barbed fitting.

The instruction book is for the old style throttle body, so MCX gave me some instructions over the phone. Here is what I ended up with:

Next the stock fuel line is cut and a tee is installed. Then you run a fuel line from the tee around to the newly installed injector:

Next the EFI control box is installed behind the driver seat. You have to connect/solder three wires from the EFI onto wires in the stock wiring harness, the rest is plug and play.

Thats as far as I got today. Tomorrow I will start on mounting the exhaust, turbo, and intake plumbing... Should be fun!

:rzrs:

 

Just curious , will be any problem with piston ring sealing when you slide cylinder completely from piston and basically put ring differently later on ? I always thought when ring set on beginning and you pull them out later, you will need to hone cylinder wall to seat them again. But maybe is this old way thinking. :question:
milos

 

I am not an engine expert, so I can't answer your question very well, but I followed the Polaris service manual that says to put the ring gaps 120 degrees apart, so the gaps on the three rings aren't all lined up. I don't remember reading anything about having to rehone the cylinder. I only have about 30 hours on the engine, so hopefully I will be ok.

Thanks for the question. Maybe someone else with more experience can offer a better answer/opinion.

:rzrs:

 

Nice job Clifford, your moving along quickly on the install. This will help others to see how its done.

 

Yeah you right his reporting help lot specially that this cylinder spacer is not so a big deal after all.
milos

 

I'm glad you are finding the information useful.
I know there are people out there interested in turbos that would like more information before they buy. The reason I am posting this info is because I would have liked to had it before I started the project. At least when I am done the next person/people will know what to expect.

:rzrs:

 

Looking good!

Is this a spacer plate you put in the engine?

For others - the spacer lifts the head off the cylinder and basically opens up the cylinder a little. This makes for lower compression. When you run a turbo you generally don't want high compression. Generally you want low compression to allow you to run more boost for max power.

 

Yes, in this kit the shim/spacer is made out of aluminum and replaces the stock base gasket. It looks just like the gasket, but is thicker (1mm I think). It is sprayed with "copper coat" that is specifically made for sealing engine heads and turbo flanges. I didn't get a picture of it to post because my hands were busy trying to install the cylinder block.

It is my understanding that MCX promotes the use of the base shim to lower compression and prevent predetonation.

:rzrs:

 

Nicely done, thanks for sharing!

 

Great thread Cliff! Thanks!

 

Lookin good!

 

with the rzr eng being a push rod motor the cyl removal is alot easer. with just push rods and no cam to mess with takes the skill level way down. but remember to mark the rocker arms and pushrods to reinstall back in the same place as removed from also with the way polaris made it their is no valve adj nessasary and clif this is a great thing with the tips and photos it will take the fear out of alot of people wanting to do this....

 

Thanks Johnnycat.
The service manual is a must to download so that things like reinstalling the rocker arms in the original location like you mentioned are done correctly.
I am a firm believer in "bag and tag". All the fasteners and parts that I took off I put in a ziplock and labeled where they went. It makes reinstalling much easier.
Every time I add an accessory or take something apart on a RZR I learn something. I certainly learned a lot by taking the head off of the engine and installing the base shim!

:rzrs:

 

You do great job to explain installation process. THX
Just my another Q. is there bung on exhaust for oxygen sensor ? I would like to add AF meter later on, do you plan to install one too ?:ride:
milos

 

Milos,
Yes there is a bung for an o2 sensor already welded in place on the adapter that goes between the turbo and the aluminum muffler. It comes with a plug in it.

I am the kind of person who likes to know what is going on with my vehicle, so I am considering adding the air/fuel ratio gauge. MCX says that if you aren't going to do any other mods or try to turn up the boost you don't need one. So everyone will have to decide for themselves if an AFR gauge is a luxury or a neccessity...

:rzrs:

 

I did not get the AFR gage and I regret it. I will be adding one on now......I think its a good idea to know what is happening