Subscribed. Keep posting pics.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

 

I will be slow going, but I will stay on top of it.

One thing I was wondering, instead of paying big bucks for custom graphics on the doors, what would be a good durable paint to use so I can design my own graphis (something simple) and paint something on? Anybody?

Roy

 

I've been looking at mine for weeks trying to figure out what would work on the doors to compliment the factory graphics. Still haven't figured out anything that would look right considering all the words and vertical orange stripes.

 

I figured I'd get some colored tape and use that for ideas. If I come up with something I like, I can paint it on. It's probably a waste of time the way I ride anyway. I'll rub anything off I put on. That's why I don't want to spend a bunch of money. But the doors need something.

Roy

 

After washing the bulk of the mud off from last weekend, it seems I would also be wasting my time to put anything on the doors, as they're scratched all to hell. Also saw that I cracked the plastic rockers in two places and gouged the hell out of them, but damn we had a blast doing it :yahoo:

I've always spent a fortune on upgrades and keeping all my toys pristine, then sell them at a huge loss, but want to use this one up until it's a pile of junk with nothing left to salvage

 

So, I guess it is time to post my first step. I installed SuperATV rear springs today. There was a giant difference in the springs in the difficulty of compressing the springs when compared to the originals. I bought part number CS-P-RZR-R-225Y, rated at 225 pounds. I could see they were much different in strength and after intallation and a trip around the block, I measured a full 2 1/8inches of increased ground clearance in the rear. GC went from 9 7/8 inches to an even 12 inches.

A couple months ago I bought front springs from a different vendor and didn't get a chance to put them on before I totaled my old machine. Remember this is a brand new undriven machine i am working on here. I posted another thread talking about this, but I should have just posted it here. Here is the link:

http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-570-specific-discussion/102327-front-springs-correct.html

So until I can figure out if the front springs are the real deal, I can't say anything other than the GC in the front is unchanged. My first thought with the 2inch increace in the rear was, maybe I won't need to install my 2" lift kit. I'll make that determination later. Next up: Tires.

Edit: I went to SuperATV and saw that their front springs are rated at 150 pounds - but they sell a spacer that I may get if nothing turns up wrong with the springs I already have - rated at 180 pounds.

Roy

 

That sounds like my old Jeep days. If I didn't break something, it wasn't fun. I ride about anywhere, but I stay away for the rock climbing stuff. That is almost certain damage. Especially after my "rocky" tumble a few weeks ago when I totaled it.

Roy

 

I decided not to do the tires/wheels yet. I am waiting on parts. So I thought I would cleanup and repaint the front brush guard from the old rzr. I held it up to the rig to kinda check it out, and much to my surprise, the new front plastic is different (I guess) and the guard will need at least 2 inches of spacing to bolt on to the upper mount holes. Forget the bottom, I'm sure it won't work either if the top is fubar. I guess Polaris thinks they will sell me another one, wrong thinking on their part. That just frees me up to find something else, and something better. Now that I have been around these machines for a while, I'll buy what works for you guys. Any recommendations?

Edit: 2/8/13. When my friend removed the parts from my old rzr (I was hurting pretty bad and couldn't do it myself), he did a good job of keeping stuff together, but I guess he didn't save the spacers for the upper brush guard mount. The old brush guard fits, I just didn't realize it needed spacers from the start. So I will clean it up and re-use it. Ride safe,

Roy

 

I had a few problems starting my rig yesterday. I think that starting it briefly and turning it around - several times - may have "loaded" it up on fuel - it was flooded big time. Once I got it started and kind of running, I decided I had better ride it some to make sure it performed well. So, I threw on my Bighorns and wheels and did about ten miles. It ran ok but it backfired like crazy - way more than my 2012. So, I guess that proves to me that the 2013's don't necessarily have the new reflash. I'm preparing myself for a fight with my dealer who has pretty much blown me off about the reflash and the 3-peice intake problem. If he wants any more of my business, he will come around. He knows I am interested in some seats and harnesses, so he may listen to me.

Edit: My product ID sheet lists my ECU as 4013911. That is NOT the new 4014178 being installed these days. However it isn't the one most people say they have in their 2012's (4014137) either. Hmmmm... My ECU number seems to be older than the 2012 number.

Edit 2: Discovered I was looking at the wrong Produst ID sheet and my 13 does have ECU 4014137 in it. After my surgery, I'll take it in to the dealer and see if they will re-flash it.

Back to my main reason for this log, ground clearance. I added my winch and extra battery. I lost 1/4" GC in the front, with no loss in the rear. Interestingly, the Bighorns added, 1 1/4" GC in the front, with no change in the rear. The rear wheels have a lot more offset than the front, but i installed 1 1/2" spacers on the front end to compensate. The fronts rub a little, and I am sure that is why the "package" i bought were set up the way ther were. After the short ride with everything kind of settled in, I now stand at 11 1/8" in the front and 12 1/2" in the rear. I have 1 3/8" spring spacers for the front that I will install when I install the Forward A-Arms (to stop the rubbing), both from SuperATV. I think if I can wind up with 12" or more ground clearance without installing a lift kit, I will call that good for the time being and see if I can keep that GC over the long haul. I still have both brush guards, a top, my aluminum skid plates, and a few other odds and ends to add as well. I'll weigh everything as I go and post a sumary when I am done. If the ride stays good after everything else is installed, I still have all the adjustment left on the shock preload collars that might get me back to 12 inches if I fall below that benchmark.

Let me know if any of you guys find this thread interesting, otherwise I'll just abandon it. I am always open to ideas as well.

Roy

 

no keep it going always nice to see what people do...

 

Keep up the progress.

Subscribed! What wheels did you install with the Bighorns? Size?

This thread is really good. I appreciate the detail. The GC is frustrating for me with the sag in the stock springs.

 

I bought a set of Bighorns already mounted on 14" Polaris wheels Listed as: Polaris - 2878032 - 14" RIM/TIRE KIT, SIXRMACH/BIG.

As I said before, the front wheels were spaced differently and didn't track the same as the rears, so I added spacers - now I'm doing the Forward A-Arms to stop the rubbing. And as I alluded to, my rear springs gave me the lift I needed without a ift kit, and I hope the front spring spacers will do the same. If I can get 12" without a lift kit, then I won't have to worry about the CVs. My 2012 springs sagged so bad that a lift kit and larger tires still barely gave me a 10-11" lift. The tires are awesome in the mud BTW. Not like some of the extreme mudders we've seen, but they ride well and aren't too noisy on pavement.

I bought the SuperATV rear springs, and I bought the fronts from a non-supporting vendor. My mistake on the fronts. But with spacers, I hope to get what I need. The ride is somewhat harsh, but I have a lot of weight to add to the bike still. Hopefully it will soften a little.

Roy

 

Keep up the INFO!!! Very interesting. I'm also trying to stay at 11-12inch GC. Just added Racer Tech heavy springs and 2inch lift kit.

 

Did you check GC after your spring intall? How much GC did you end up with and do you have a lot of extra weight - top, doors, winch, skid plate, bumpers, etc. Thanks

Roy

 

I'm at 11 1/2 on the GC after the spring and lift kit install. I'm on the first setting on the rear and 2nd setting on the front. And yes I have quite a bit of weight added. Running about 600lbs in passengers and add-ons. I was very happy with the ride and performance of the springs and lift kit. I did have a delrin spacer on the rear rub the paint off the shock. Racer Tech said that was a common thing with dual rate springs. Still I didn't like the paint being rubbed off my shocks. Definitely will be a rust spot there!

 

Good info there, thanks.

Roy

 

I haven't added any new parts since my last post, but I did talk to my dealer, frankly and with resolve, and he agreed to start an official inquiry into the ECU reflash and intake three-peice tube problems so prevelatant on this forum. I hope to hear from him in a day or two. I was armed with enough information that I had gathered from this forum to get him interested. He admitted he had only sold a few of the 2013s so he had not gotten any feedback about the backfire or intake problems from customers until now.

My SuperATV Forward A-arms and my Tusk cab extender will both be here tomorrow. I should have both installed over the weekend. Ride safe,

Roy

 

Roy, did you get the cab extender/bumper/spare tire carrier? I got that one and I like all the options on it. It follow the contours of the rzr body really well. Bet you like it!!

 

Yup, I like the looks of it and the features, and I think it will support the cab better than the Polaris version that connects halfway down the B pillar. Do you have a top? I am thinking about a plastic top and wonder if the massive collars that hook to the cab will interfere with it too much. I would think the plastic tops would spring enough to compensate. I guess you could notch it if necessary. Ride safe.

Roy

 

I was thinking the same thing when I ordered it. Got a polaris lock and ride top when I bought it. No problem at all with the tusk fitting under the roof.

 

Cool. I just hope I never have to test the cage and top again - for strength that is. 8>/

 

No Kidding!!! That was one of them once in a life time events you will never forget!!!

 

I installed my widshield washer today. Here is a picture. I used self-tapping screws and mounted it right to the firewall. I bought this kit from JC Whitney last year. Sorry I don't have the part number, but when I bought it, there were only two models available and you should be able to see the one I bought from the picture. The only problem with this kit is that the actual spray nozzel is not adjustable and it sprays too low on the windshield. I will make some UHMW wedges to angle them up a little. I put them on the removeable hood before, but I may rethink that this time around, since the hose is always connected and you can't put the hood on the seat or the ground to get it out of the way. I used this washer on my plastic windshield on my old RZR and it worked very good. I have a glass windshield now and have no doubt that it will be great on the glass install. When I install the spray nozzles, I will document that at that time. The washer holds about a gallon of water and that is plenty. If I should run out, bottled water works well, and I always carry plenty of that.

As a side note, I moved the factory wiper install 4 inches toward the edge. The wiper left 4 inches unwiped on the left edge of the windshield and that sucked. I installed my old manual wiper for the passenger to use - if I have a passenger. Of course timing is everything, so he will have to make sure not to hit the electric wiper. Here is a picture.

I also bought a standard rearview mirror, but I am waiting on adhesive to mount it. It is nice having the glass to attach it too. I also mount my GoPro on the glass with a sticky pad, and mount my GPS with a suction cup at the bottom. I'll take pictures after the mirror is mounted. The mirrir is a little small, but I use it primarily to make sure the guy behind me is still behind me when runnning roads. Ride safe,

Roy

 

You need a bigger work space Roy!! I wished I had a metal building to pull truck, trailer and rzr in. I like the washer ideal, thats the first I've seen that. We only run the half windshield and even that thing gets so nasty sometimes and reflects sun that its useless.

 

I hear ya. I just don't have a place to put a shop or I would have had one years ago. My little gartage is only 18X18 and half of that is my observatory, I do astro-photography when the weather permits. We never could park a car in the garage, so it became my play room. Being so small it is hard to have room to work, and I tend to be messy anyway. But, being small, one really should keep it organized better than I do so I have more room to work. I am really looking forward to the electric wiper and the washer on the glass windshield. It should be great! Did you see the receiver for my R/C winch control hanging over the radiator? The R/C control is handy, but it has a delay off that is a pain. I'm trying to figure out why it does that. Ride safe,

Roy

 

I just got off the phone with my Polaris dealer and he said he had just got off the phone with a Polaris rep, and was informed that Polaris had never heard of a backfire problem with the 570. HUH!!!! Furthermore, the three peice tube problem was an incorrect installation at the factory and a TSB had been issued to check them before selling them. I said fine, the machine is screwed up and I WILL bring it in and you WILL fix it. Talk about ruining my day. (insert cuss words here) Ride safe,

Roy

 

I stayed away from the remote on the winch. My first trip out, my buddy had a remote winch that let him of course freespool out and then wouldnt work. And the dealership had installed the manual switch under the dash. Whats up with that? We didnt find that switch either that day and ended up wrapping his rope around his front bumper. At least Polaris is admitting to the intake tube problem. Had my 2012 reflashed for the backfire problem. They should get out and ride some of their machines and see for themselves!!!

 

I installed my new Tusk cab extender today. Total wieght was about 44 pounds without the spare tire carrier. The ground clearance hardly changed, maybe 1/16 inch, and I don't really consider that outside tolerance of just bouncing the rear end and measuring again. Throwing the spare tire carrier in the bed didn't make any measurable differance, but adding the spare tire lowered the GC by an 1/8", with a total added weight of 46 pounds for the carrier and tire. So, with the cage, tire and carrier added, it was an even 90 pounds, with about 3/16" initial change in GC. However, after bouncing the rear a few times, it consistantly stopped at the original 12 1/2" ground clearance. Interesting. I don't plan on using the spare tire carrier unless I do some desert riding this summer. My buddy has plans on a coyote hunt for us when it warms up a little.

As a side note, there was an electronic device (it looked like a self containd diode bridge rectifier, but I don't know off-hand what it is) that was attached to one of the bumper mounting holes. It was behind the mount and bolted on a plastic stand-off. I had to relocate it in order to mount the cab extender. I am intentionally calling it a cab extender even though many call it a cage extender. Polaris doesn't call their rider enclosure a cage, but rather a cab. This was pointed out to me in another thread. I think it is prudent to point this out and try to change the thinking of anyone that believes they have a ROPS certified roll cage. It is a ROPS certified passenger "cab". I don't want anyone feeling too safe - as I did before my roll-over incident. Pictures to follow in another message.

I am not one to complaing too much (please don't ask my wife about that though) but if there was anything that was a little bit frustrating, it would be that the threaded bolt holes were full of paint. That made it somewhat difficult to put the upper clamps together and my t-handle allen wrench was pretty much useless bacause it took too much force to turn the bolts without using the long part if the wrench. The kit was beautiful and everthing was double wrapped, first in plasctic, then in bubble-wrap. There were no scrapes, chips or mars in the paint job. Of course, as mentioned elsewhere in another thread, it was not powder coated. Durability of the finish may be an issue.

One oddity, the instructions call for lock-washers on both the bolt and the nylock where the upper tubes connect to the lower brush guard with flanges. I can't see using lock washers on a nylock in the first place, let alone a second lockwasher under the bolt head. Ride safe,

Roy