Re-tap it to the next size up and put a new plug in! Buy the Plug and the Tap at the same time!

 

FYI- torque spec for that drain bolt is 30-45 in.lbs
yep that equals 2.5 - 4 ft.lbs
believe it or not!

 

Thanks guys I'm gonna try and tap it but look like there's not much room to get in there.

 

I did the same thing over a year ago and was able to find the same length and size bolt in a different pitch thread and it actually worked perfect. I do not remember the pitch but take the bolt to your local auto parts store and I am sure they have one. I no it sounds to easy but it worked for me! Changed rear fluid several times since and not a single leak. I hope this may help, it's worth a shot before the next step. good luck and let us know the outcome.

 

Sounds good popstix, I will give that a shot. I tried retapping the hole earlier but I didn't get it since it was getting dark and I was aggrivated with it lol. There's not much room at all to really get in there. All I accomplished was screwing the hole up so I'll try again tomorrow or Monday and see what I can do.

 

No, you don't need a whole diff or case. I can't remember what size the plug is, and I'm too tired to go up to the shop to check it out. Regardless, there are a number of little used sizes of plugs. You can usually get away with a bolt, not a true plug. We used to use a 7 mm bolt when a Honda outboard was stripped, and it worked fine. A GOOD Napa-Echlin dealer will have what you need, with out a major repair. Also, if you are forced to retap, start with whatever tap you have chosen to do the rethread. Go in about 3-4 full turns. Then remove that tap and finish the threading job with a "plug" or "bottoming" tap. You can also make a plug tap by grinding the end off of a regular tap. Now it won't protrude into the case and possibly damage some internal parts.

 

Might want to keep that bolt head as low profile as possible. When I made my skid plate I cut an access to drain fluid without removing and have worried about that spot ever since. My next one won’t have it, but the diff sits so low in the frame will have to rout out clearance below frame level.

 

Yea it sucks cause the drain plug isn't on the bottom of the diff pointing down.

 

Longer bolt... But not too long, it could get into ring gear

 

i got a helicoil kit from napa works great and wont have to worry about stripping it out anymore.

 

use 3/8 course thread and it will go right in and seal, just reuse the rubber o-ring

 

Ended up rethreading the hole to a 7/16" hole and got a bolt at the hardware store and the guy cut it to match the length of the old drain plug. It snugs up good now and no leaks for now. Thanks for everyones help.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed.