fuel pump or injector harness.. Any codes?

 

No codes...where to check the harness? Also how can I test the fuel pump?

 

Water in the fuel or plugged filter maybe

 

How would water get in fuel? Never been in water.

 

I agree, fuel pressure maybe. If you do not have the gauges its not expensive to get fuel pressure checked at your dealer. It takes about 15 min. Also i have seen crank sensor act that way. very easy to replace. As far as water in the gas, I have gotten watered down gas from gas stations so don't rule that out.

 

Also check timing, could have jumped a tooth on the cams.

 

That’s what I was thinking..

 

yea, drain the tank and put a gallon of good new premium in. Ive never seen it on my RZR, but my other UTVs were very sensitive to shitty. gas. Ruined a whole holiday weekend trip one year. Toy hauler had 30 gallons of the shit.
The harness is the injectors under the bed cover. take it off. The 14s had a lot of these fail. You can buy new ones at oreilly or amazon etc. Solder and heat shrink them.

 

It is probably the wires coming out of the Throttle position sensor, my 2014 XP 1000 did the same as yours. I found the wire by slowly pulling on each wire, you will find one will be stretchy and that’s the one that is broken. I bought a used wire harness off eBay for a different reason but I had an extra plug so I fixed it very easily.


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Sorry it’s actually called the TMAP sensor. It’s on the passenger side, here is a pic. The purple wire was broken on mine.

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My 14 acted similar and it was the passenger side fuel injector plug. If you can get it running wiggle the wires and see if there is a change.

 

the TMAP and injector harness are the same plug. Either one of these failing will make you sad.

 

Wiggled all wires, no change, still same?

 

I have a friend that had a defective harness on his new 2016 XP4. Out of the blue, it started backfiring, sputter, then die. The odd part was the brake lights would come on with each backfire!

 

I had the same exact problem with my carback fires and tail light would light up with misfire. Took the dealer a month and a half to figure out and replaced the whole harness.

Another friend had the bad injector plugs, which he soldered new connectors on and also had loose connection in the map sensor which dielectric grease fixed the issue on the map sensor.

Then another car has a misfire code and the car is totally stock and about 6 months old. I am sure it is at the dealer now.



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Funny thing is I see no code..most other issues seem to ha e a code pop up.any help. Could the fuel pump not pull a code? What other options could not pull a code..I have one more day of riding if I can figure it out..

 

Checking timing chain now

 

Mine had not codes


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I had a similar issue and my was a bad tmap sensor and ultimately a bad wiring harness. As stated check the wires to the injectors and to the tmap sensor.

In fact disconnect the wiring harness from the tmap sensor and see if it will hold an idle.

Sometimes a code may not show up on the display, but it will when a dealer hooks it up to the computer.

 

Water can get into the gas with a temp change really easy. I would get some starting fluid and have someone spray it in the intake with the filter off while you start it. Don’t do it too much cuz it’s a dry burn and can wipe the rings. Then you will know if it’s electrical or not. That’s providing the throttle body opens to let more air in for acceleration. Be careful of backfiring, I would hold the can off to the side a bit while spraying.

 

Go to oriellies and get 2 of these and the tools to replace them with you.

Mine did the same thing. I used these on the injector harness and its good again... also dielectric grease helps.

I keep some in the toolbox I carry with me.


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Ok so here is an update. My buddy has the same rzr 1000 same year. I tried his Ecu, no difference. Tried his voltage regulator no difference. I drained all the fuel and put new from a different gas station , no difference. Pulled my valve cover and checked tdc on intake and exhaust cam sprockets everything looks in line. (Was thinking maybe it jumped a tooth). Changed plugs no difference . Wiggles wires at both fuel injectors nothing .also wiggled the wires at the tmap sensor. Nothing. Again no codes..lastly tried just moving the wiring harness as much as I could reach. Nothing. Question if it was electrical would it throw a code? Or not? Thanks again guys.

 

dont just wiggle it, remove the tmap plug, remove one injector at a time, or better yet, spend $20 and snip them off and solder new ones on.If theres no change when you pull a plug, thats your culprit

 

I recently went through a similar issue,car would sputter and back fire,die randomly.then be fine for awhile.finally got a iat code.at this point it wouldn't run after returning home from a trip(drove on the trailer).unplugged the tmap and fired right up but idled terribly so got a new tmap and pigtail,pigtail fixed it and now I have a spare tmap


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Update I bought a fuel pressure gauge kit from harbor freight, installed it at the fuel rail Schrader valve and took a reading looks like the best I could get was 30 psi, I then disconnected it from the fuel rail pulled the passenger seat and connected the gauge directly to the fuel pump assemblely after disconnecting the factory fuel line with same results 30 psi. Keep in mind that it would not start when connected directly to the fuel pump so the best reading I could get was initial key turn on when fuel pump primed itself and also just turning it over and the best I could see was 28-30 max. When I connected it to the fuel rail it ram very poorly and the best I could see was 28-30 psi. So what do you think guys pump bad? My manual says 58 psi plus or minus a few lbs.

 

Connected directly at top of gas tank fuel pump line. Is this location accurate? Pump?