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GSXRZR

43K views 83 replies 44 participants last post by  DReese  
#1 ·
Brought my new RZR in for its 2nd oil change (14 hrs on motor) and things kinda got out of hand.

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Found an 03' GSXR 1000 motor in the corner of my garage, it seemed a bit wider than the poo, not wanting to waste a good motor, I used my trusty frame stretcher...
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5" and my wife asking WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU DOING WITH THE NEW RZR!?
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Just gettin some of the rust off my tools, its been 10 years since some of em have seen my hand. Mock up of the motor and trans in its new home.
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Might as well build my own +8 LT since I am all dirty, cut off all the old mounts, moved some stuff around, add some bracing, now I wait for my axle shafts before I fab the arms...
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Moved and strengthened the upper shock mount.
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I have a feelin this RZR might need a little extra bracing, a new cage will be in its future too.
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I have bit off a lot of work, with luck, my wife and I will be at the May UTV rally in Moab.
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I am posting this into my 2nd week of work to begin begging for ideas and advice on what to pay attention to or what to not forget while I am here.

I would appreciate thoughts on controlls, exhaust, electrical, and power transfer for the engine. As well as suspension tips. I have my own thoughts on each part but appreciate everyones' knowledge and expertise. This is not my first build but it has been a long time.
 
#8 ·
you might want to upgrade the rear diff to the HPD one. much stronger especially for the hp you will be running through it. i would also contact super atv (i beleive) they made the same thing a year or so ago and was supposed to have a kit out for that swap.

save yourself some headaches and toss the stock rzr wiring harness, just use the gsxr harness and extend the wires. too many wires and you will confuse yourself. plus when you have a problem you will not have to sort through two sets of wires.

suspension will be a big factor on how fast you go and how the power gets to the ground. make sure you get a good kit with a decent turning radius. with no front wheel drive and a locked rear end you will have to turn with the gas pedal. making room for a 26" dirt tire will be a must and the bigger the lugs for dirt or mud the better.

exhaust just plan on making it yourself. the aftermarket headers are $350 minimum and will never be exactly what you want. just buy u-bends and tubing then build it yourself. find a silencer off egay or from a streetbike and use that. these motors are really loud and the longer the muffler the better. mine is 12" long and 2 1/2" id and i have to wear earplugs while driving.

controls-i used the stock throttle cable. stock brakes. added a reverse hanging clutch pedal with a slave cylinder at the clutch arm on the motor. the clutch arm does not move more than 3/4" when adjusted properly. its a pita to adjust right but when finished a little movement at the pedal and the clutch will be enauged.

i would use aftermarket gauges for water temp and oil temp. i found a Dakota Digital 4 place gauge that was cheaper then buying 4 gauges seperately.

good luck and post lots of build pics as you go.
 
#10 ·
you might want to upgrade the rear diff to the HPD one. much stronger especially for the hp you will be running through it. i would also contact super atv (i beleive) they made the same thing a year or so ago and was supposed to have a kit out for that swap.
I am planning on the diff housing, UTV Crap hubs, and the front diff carrier as well. I did talk to Super ATV last Nov. (nice guys).

save yourself some headaches and toss the stock rzr wiring harness, just use the gsxr harness and extend the wires. too many wires and you will confuse yourself. plus when you have a problem you will not have to sort through two sets of wires.
I found a company that mods/lengthens the bike harness, (Barker Racing Electronics).
suspension will be a big factor on how fast you go and how the power gets to the ground. make sure you get a good kit with a decent turning radius. with no front wheel drive and a locked rear end you will have to turn with the gas pedal. making room for a 26" dirt tire will be a must and the bigger the lugs for dirt or mud the better.
Building this myself, 5/8" heims at each mounting piont, Fireball Racing heimballs up front. Changing shock geometry and bought a set of AFCO Silver Series w/progress springs from Steve. (waitin for the big brown truck). Summers Bros. custom length shafts on thier way too. Keepin the 4wd, lookin at the pit bull tires.
exhaust just plan on making it yourself. the aftermarket headers are $350 minimum and will never be exactly what you want. just buy u-bends and tubing then build it yourself. find a silencer off egay or from a streetbike and use that. these motors are really loud and the longer the muffler the better. mine is 12" long and 2 1/2" id and i have to wear earplugs while driving.
I agree with you on that, I am going to try to "personalize" it myself. I want the quietest exhaust I can fit. The intake is going to be moved/turned to allow the rear deck to stay intact. I want this rig to look as factory as possible.
controls-i used the stock throttle cable. stock brakes. added a reverse hanging clutch pedal with a slave cylinder at the clutch arm on the motor. the clutch arm does not move more than 3/4" when adjusted properly. its a pita to adjust right but when finished a little movement at the pedal and the clutch will be enauged.
I am looking at a couple of hangin clutch pedals. Gotta modify the firewall to fit. Stock brakes and throttle pedals I think I can make work.
i would use aftermarket gauges for water temp and oil temp. i found a Dakota Digital 4 place gauge that was cheaper then buying 4 gauges seperately.
Still need to pick up a guage cluster for the GSXR harness as well as an ECU. I want to build a closed loop EFI and need to find info on that.
good luck and post lots of build pics as you go.
Can do.
 
#12 ·
first time those rear tires hook up your diff will be gone! the rzr diff can barely handle stock power. on the harness use Peter D Motorsports they are awesome. they also do tech so when u need help their there. if you have a header off a modified or late model itll work too. please ditch the tranny those things blow on new rzr's. good luck
 
#13 ·
sweet, I put a 600 in my 1000 was out of my buget,lots of mods and fab work but is worth the time and work.cant wait to see more.good work.
 
#16 ·
Tonight I developed a rare case of ADD... instead of pulling out the motor and trans and welding off and finaling the mounts and rear chassis, I got out the tube bender and started to fab the rear lower A arms.

Left out the shock mount and some bracing till my AFCO's show up. With the frame stretched 5 in, I am moving the rear arms an additional 2". When I get to the front I will move them forward about an inch. That will give me 8+ inches of extra wheelbase.
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#19 ·
lookin' good! I am going to start an 03 cbr600rr OR 07 zx-6r engine conversion pretty soon, the motor is on order. (I was about to yank the drivetrain out of my 06 zx-10r and swap it in, but I didn't want to deal with too many broken RZR parts). What are you doing for shifting and clutching?
 
#20 ·
I am planning on using a hydraulic clutch, I have not decided if I would replace the factory pedal and throttle with a entire new system or get a hanging clutch pedal. Either way I think I will have to modify the firewall a bit. As for the shifter, I believe a Morse brand cable and some sort of shifter handle near the wheel is how I will do it. Megadesertdiesel has an interesting shifter on his project.
 
#26 ·
man this is a SWEET build man! Whether it holds or not I love the idea of using the stock tranny! I wouldnt build it in any form unless I had reverse!

gives me some ideas for the current chassis under my bike... being I do want to replace my frame with a new one... looks like I could easily use my buddies 05 gsxr1000 motor for the old frame! lol
 
#32 ·
Still waiting for my shocks to get here to finish rear a arms. Got the flu last monday so stayed out of garage couple of days. Had motocross race this weekend so not much done Sunday. Got all my sumers bros axles switched out. Learned here from Jhonny@UTV CRAP about using a brass drift punch on the inner carriage on the CVs and they popped right off for me!

Ordered limiting straps and tube elbows for the exhaust header fab.
I am cleaning up and finishing the welds and tabs on the engine mounts and frame right now.

Besides trying to get the suspension finished, I have been trying to decide best way to keep intake and TB under rear deck. I want to fab a set of 4 short elbows to go between the head intake ports and the TB assembly in order to turn the intake to be paralell with the bed. Right now the top of the TB if connected directly to the head will be interfering with the rear bed and thats without any type of intake filter housing. (I attached a pic to better show what I am seeing.) I want to keep everything under the rear bed except for a single tube coming through the deck with some sort of filter above the bed.

Any suggestions?
 

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#33 ·
how much room do you have to play with? and whats the throttle body diameter?