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Front Dif Leak caused by plug in the output hub?

10K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  RWB713  
#1 ·
I have a front dif leak on my 2019 TRE XP1000 and been researching options to fix it.

The dealer gave me a ball park estimate of $300 to $900 for the repair... ouch, so I'll probably do it myself.

I'm thinking about buying the SandCraft front differential kit for $140. It includes a solid plug not the cheap rolled plug used by Polaris. FRONT DIFFERENTIAL KIT - 17-20 XP 1000 / TURBO - SandCraft Motorsports

SandCraft also the the bullet proof kit that eliminates the plastic parts in the DIF but its $575... is it worth the extra $435.00??? DIY GEN 2 BULLETPROOF FRONT DIFF KIT - 2017-2020 XP 1000 / 2017-2020 XP TURBO - SandCraft Motorsports

I understand a damaged plug in the output hub is sometimes the cause. But from watching how to videos to rebuild the DIF its not clear to me how a bad plug causes the leak. Can someone share their experience and explain it to me.
 
#2 ·
I can give a better reply when I have some more time, but for now, look at this thread

 
#3 ·
I read your thread... thanks.

Per your post:
"The stock TRE front diff has pretty beefy bearings. Its also got the nice sprag. No plastic. Almost looked identical to the bearings in SandCraft kit. Even the roll pin in the SC kit was identical to the one already in the TRE. Its a hardened pin and not a stamped roll pin."

Since the TRE has no plastic parts... there should be no need to buy the Bullet Proof Kit from Sandcraft... right?

Is there even a need to buy the Sandcraft $140 bearing kit?

Per Pro4driver:
"Newer hubs have an updated plug and rubber seal,"

Would my 2019 have the updated plug and rubber seal?

To be honest... from looking at the parts info on the Polaris website I can't tell what the "plug" part actually is.
Polaris Parts

Did you replace the plug and the seal with Sandcraft parts?

Any additional info you can share would be appreciated.
 
#5 ·
I read your thread... thanks.

Per your post:
"The stock TRE front diff has pretty beefy bearings. Its also got the nice sprag. No plastic. Almost looked identical to the bearings in SandCraft kit. Even the roll pin in the SC kit was identical to the one already in the TRE. Its a hardened pin and not a stamped roll pin."

Since the TRE has no plastic parts... there should be no need to buy the Bullet Proof Kit from Sandcraft... right?

Is there even a need to buy the Sandcraft $140 bearing kit?

Per Pro4driver:
"Newer hubs have an updated plug and rubber seal,"

Would my 2019 have the updated plug and rubber seal?

To be honest... from looking at the parts info on the Polaris website I can't tell what the "plug" part actually is.
Polaris Parts

Did you replace the plug and the seal with Sandcraft parts?

Any additional info you can share would be appreciated.
The plugs that are leaking are not a part that is available by themselves, to get them from Polaris, you have to buy the entire output hub assembly, which is part # 3 on this diagram for your machine. (the plugs are not show in the diagram, just the output hub assembly)

The TRE still has a plastic spring retainer in it, but the sprauge is aluminum, which was the main problem area when they were made of plastic in previous models. Most folks can get by with the plastic retainer and not have any issues, but a billet aluminum upgrade is available.

The bulletproof kit from SCR includes a billet aluminum sprauge, which is stronger than the factory cast sprauge, a much stronger armature plate, an HD roll pin (which is very common failure point), and the billet retainer plate I mentioned above. The SCR kit is a very good upgrade from the stock parts, but if you're not pushing the machine very hard, then you won't probably need the entire thing. However, if you do pull the diff apart, I would absolutely upgrade the factory roll pin and armature plate (you'll have to use a 6 tooth plate if you keep the stock sprauge cage), as these are the most common failure points the give people issues. If your TRE diff does have the hardened pin in it already, then that should be fine, but the armature plate fingers will still bend over time on the stock unit.

The bearing kit is worth it, specifically the pinion bearing, which has also been known to fail over time, the output hub bearings are ok, but a few have still failed.

There is no aftermarket hub plug to solve the leak issue. SCR, nor anyone else, does not have a plug to replace that. I'm not certain if your 19 TRE has that same redesigned plug that the newer XPT's do, it may or may not, but even that newer plug design develops a leak over time. The only current fix is to seal that plug. It can be done from the inside as that thread I linked shows (there are several others on the forum as well), but a lot of people have had success by sealing it from the outside without even pulling the diff out or apart.
 
#9 ·
I don't own a TRE so can't get my hands on hubs.
That being said the problematic original plug appears to be a standard freeze plug, which is Engineer speak for casting plug.
The new improved plug appears to be a Tobar bore plug, either EC or ECW.
If one of you has access to old style and new style hubs a few dimensions should verify if the actual hubs are different, or just the installed seal.

Link to catalog: https://www.repurvis.com/sites/default/files/product/files/tobar-oil-seal-catalog.pdf

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#10 ·
I've got the diff out of my '17 XP4T for seals, bearings and SCR internals while I'm in there. I will be doing the hub seal repair as described above. Hence my visiting this thread...

Interestingly only one of my hubs has the plastic bearing spacer. @RWB713 yours clearly has both.
Polaris parts diagram shows neither. Any insights...?
thx, Law
657814
 
#12 ·
I've got the diff out of my '17 XP4T for seals, bearings and SCR internals while I'm in there. I will be doing the hub seal repair as described above. Hence my visiting this thread...

Interestingly only one of my hubs has the plastic bearing spacer. @RWB713 yours clearly has both.
Polaris parts diagram shows neither. Any insights...?
thx, Law
View attachment 657814
It will vary depending on model & year it was built, just make sure to put it back together the same way it came apart.
 
#11 ·
Some have had good success with Silicone sealer and the axle pushed back in. First one I did is holding so have done three more that way. Much cheaper and less work. Time will tell. Hope they all hold.