What kind of smoke? Is it oil water or fuel smoke?

 

Recently rebuilt my xp 1000 motor from the rings up. Complete overhaul of the head and new gaskets and arp studs. Put it all back together and back in time and it’s still smoking when you mash the throttle. I’m stumped. Any help appreciated.


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how many miles? you don't have synthetic oil in it do you ?? have rings seated ?

 

Synthetic oil will not be any issue. Ring still seat. You are not telling us when this happens. Does it do it just on new start up? Could be assemble oil burning off. Normal. Is it doing it after some hours on it? Then could be a broken ring. Compression check might help to see if one cylinder is weaker then the other. Is the smoke blue? Oil. Is the smoke gray, coolant. If concerned, do a compression check, if all normal, then give it some time. Keep an eye on oil and coolant levels and see what happens, if it stops are gets worse. Another possibility is the ecu needs time to get everything adjusted and it could be running rich. Clean and new air filter? Are all sensor wires connected and good? All grounds good and clean. Harness connections all good. Might try dielectric on harness connections.

 

Sorry I wasn’t very informative in my first post. It’s oil smoke and it does it on hard acceleration. I ran a compression test yesterday and both cylinders were at 150. I did put ps-4 back in it per popo’s manual. It’s running better than ever just smokes. It’s got 1350 miles on it. About 5 miles since rebuild.


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That seems low especially for a new build
Are you holding throttle wide open and both plugs out during test?
My 1k is 195 psi

 

I did it both ways, foot on the throttle and not. Foot not on the throttle was 150. Foot on the throttle was 240. Both cylinders matched each other both times


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Give it more then 5 miles for rings to seat. For good break in, it is on and off power, not a steady throttle for a long time. Watch your oil level.

 

You think it would be worth trying to break it in with non synthetic oil. A lot of old school guys swear by it.


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Rings will seat with synthetic, takes longer but the rings will seat. False information that the rings will not seat. The key to all break in is varied throttle and power loads, even full power short burst then back off. No steady throttle for extending time. Five miles is only enough to get everything warmed up. Give it miles and time. Get to 25 hours, change oil and go from there.

 

Alright I’ll try that, thanks for the info.


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We never seat rings or break in any rebuild on synthetic oil. You want them to wear in and form to the cylinder walls, synthetic oil inhibits this from happening.. Any chance you just don't have enough time on it to have burned the residue out of the exhaust? We sometimes have to put over 50 miles on a rebuild that was oiling the exhaust badly to get it cleaned out. They will stop smoking with no load but once you get them out with a load they start blowing a smoke screen After initial run off I always heat cycle a rebuild 3-4 times, take it out at low load make sure there are no problems then hard on the throttle followed by heavy braking. Do this at least 10 times in a row then varied throttle use for the first tank. After that drive it like you normally would. Have seen rebuilds that used synthetic for break in use oil until replaced with regular oil more than once.

 

I just changed the oil to regular and ran it through some cycles on the road. It’s smoking worse now. When I would stop it would fill the cab completely up and cloud up again when I took off. When I pulled back in the shop it was puffing smoke at idle 🤷🏽‍♂️


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Like 185EZ said your compression is low for a non turbo motor if it is only at 150
Unfortunately you have bigger issues. The oil type has nothing to do with it

 

He said that was with throttle closed
240 with throttle open
Which now seems very high
Probably oil on the cylinders

 

Or a broken oil ring. Easy to do.

 

Any chance you installed the rings upside down? That will cause blue smoke under acceleration.

 

Any updates yet?

 

All is obviously not well in that engine. I do hold out hope the rings aren't seating though.

I'm not going to say rings "won't" seat on most synthetics, but it certainly narrows the window of things that need to be right. Good crosshatch, changing load during break-in, etc.. In fact, there are an awful lot of engine building shops that advise not using synthetic for break-in. I happen to agree. Personally, I'd be using a Dino oil with a few ounces of ZDDP, taking it easy RPM wise (although I'd be on the throttle a little now and then), and changing it at 20 hours.

That said, a canned and excellent answer right out of the bottle is:

Break-In Oil: What is it and When Do I Use it? - AMSOIL Blog

Break-in oil seals the piston rings to the cylinder wall for maximum power and minimum oil consumption. Here's how it works and when to use it.

blog.amsoil.com

When company selling some of the best synthetic oils you can buy tells you to not use it, there's probably a reason....

This article sums up my thoughts perfectly:

Dispelling Engine Break-In Myths With High Performance Academy

Engine break-in is one of the most widely misunderstood processes in the automotive world. High Performance Academy seeks to change that.

www.enginelabs.com

I don't want to put words in Rogers's mouth, but I'm pretty certain he would agree with above also..

Nor is this to say there aren't other things wrong, or that posters above aren't giving excellent advise. However, at this point you really should do all you can to be sure it's not just a ring seat problem, and ergo I'd get break-in oil in PDQ.

Luck to you!

 

Checked ring end gap, piston to cylinder wall clearances?