Mine needed spark plugs as well when this happened.

 

Thanks, I'll add spark plugs to my list and replace them as well. Did you have any issues with your turbo or any of the intake/exhaust sensors getting coolant in them?

 

I'd probably do an oil change and then Sample it for coolant contamination.

 

I'd probably do an oil change and then Sample it for coolant c

Thanks, I'll do that. I did check it in the desert and didn't see any obvious contamination, but will change it anyway and check it in the pan for contamination. What are your thoughts about running Amsoil engine flush as well?

 

Are you going with OEM again or aftermarket cooler??

 

From what I have read, the stock Polaris intercoolers are prone to failure. Instead of going through this again, I decided to spend the extra money and ordered a C&R racing intercooler. What are your thoughts on those?

 

If you have a borescope check out your cylinders, this failure caused my cousin to drop a valve, this would let you know if there is any debris inside


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Thanks for the advice, I do have one and I'll check em out. Keeping my fingers crossed that there will be no damage.

 

What are your miles/hours? Mine went at 289 miles. Used an OE part, long story, now at 1800 miles with no issues. I do keep my temp reading on the display at all times now. My temp skyrocketed when I had the failure.

 

I have 2084 miles on it currently. I have had heat issues before on long, steep trails when the outside temp is 95°-100°. In fact, I added a reflex secondary cooling fan that I can control when it's on and when it's off just for times when it starts to get hot. Fan makes a giant difference in the heat, but it was night time and only about 45 ° outside when the intercooler failed on me. I didn't get any warning lights or fault codes, the motor just sounded like it was drowning. I limped back to camp and actually let it idle for a couple minutes before I shut it down in order to cool the turbo. Engine temp was only at about 189°. It wasn't until the next morning that the engine wouldn't start and it threw up the check engine light with two misfire codes. That's when I found it was really low on coolant. I filled up the coolant and it actually started but was belching out white smoke, so I shut it down. Starting doing research and narrowed it down to the intercooler. I went with a C&R racing intercooler. They are supposed to be one of the best. Website says they are up to 30% more efficient than OEM or other manufacturers. I am hoping it is worth the money I spent on it. I'll be sure to post the outcome, once I get it back together. Keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else was damaged.

 

How do you like the new C&R intercooler?

 

No problems so far, I have only been out once since I installed it and went about 160 miles of some hard desert driving with no issues. Installation was pretty simple. If you get one, be sure to fill it with coolant before you install it. I used the plastic protection caps that came with it when I installed it. Those were good enough to keep coolant in it during the install. Also be sure to clamp the hoses, in order to loose as little of the coolant as possible during removal and installation. Purging the air out of the system is a pain in the butt. All the videos I saw on the Internet made it look really simple. In reality, it was not. I had to remove all the heat shields around the turbo and the little vent bolt was still tough to get to. It also gets coolant all over the exhaust and down the back of the motor. Bottom line, I'm very happy with it.

 

With my BC/Garrett intercooler, I just installed and cracked the bleeder on the top of the intercooler. Never touched the bleeder on the block, considering it's a separate circuit.

It was extremely easy.

 

10-4, That would have been nice. The C&R intercooler doesn't have it's own bleed screw.

 

I'm just trying to understand why you bled the block though... It's a separate circuit until the reservoir.

 

I'm a weekend mechanic and learn all this as I go and the research I did, told me that is what needed to be done. It did drain my reservoir when the intercooler blew as well. So I guess to be on the safe side, I bled the system.

 

I have a 18 xpt with 2300 miles. I have somethings done to mine one being a split coolant tank. My intercooler is stock and this trip I noticed it missing and breaking up but no codes. I checked the coolant the next day and noticed the intercooler side was empty! I guess having that split tank saved me from dumping all the coolant into the engine! I'm not sure which intercooler will be going in but it won't be a polaris one! Any suggestions?

 

None of them are as good as the stock unit, but my pick would be the BC. I've been running one for a couple years now, specifically to get rid of the known failure point of the OEM unit. I did a before and after on the same day and although the BC started out cooler, the temperature rise was higher than the OEM.

Just stay away from those replacement offerings that do not use the correct core for the job... There's quite a few (or at least there was).

 

None of them are as good as the stock unit, but my pick would be the BC. I've been running one for a couple years now, specifically to get rid of the known failure point of the OEM unit. I did a before and after on the same day and although the BC started out cooler, the temperature rise was higher than the OEM.

View attachment 725252


Just stay away from those replacement offerings that do not use the correct core for the job... There's quite a few (or at least there was).

Are you still running the stock coolant tank?

 

It still has enough to hydro lock a motor if the crack is big enough to dump a lot of coolant at once.

Either way, I think we are past that... You've had failure and you need one that won't fail. I'd change your oil as well.

 

It still has enough to hydro lock a motor if the crack is big enough to dump a lot of coolant at once.

Either way, I think we are past that... You've had failure and you need one that won't fail. I'd change your oil as well.

Yes but atleast it's not all of the coolant! Like I said I couldn't see the smoke but saw the pre and post tb Temps going up! These systems must be very wide open as far as setting a code cause mine still hasn't set one yet!

 

It won't set a code as far as I have seen, it will reduce boost and timing based on post intercooler charge temps.

Modelled EGT does not get calculated from charge temps, just load and RPM, so it will not richen fuel mixture based on high charge temps.

I don't disagree that separating these systems is ideal, though I don't like any offering out there (particularly connected aluminum cans) and the crazy prices they want for something so simple. I think I'd rather take a turbo reservoir off a turbo Subaru and repurpose it for nearly free, and it would be plastic, not metal.

 

Mine had times it was breaking up but no misfire codes. I know some systems are designed with lets say more or less tolerance before it will set codes. The moroso one I have atleast has a gap between the two anks so the temp won't directly transfer to the other tank. As far as price goes yeah it wasn't cheap but then there's more expensive ones out there too!