Seems you blew the main inline fusible link near the battery. Check to see if you have 12 volts anywhere up front. Find a wiring diagram and find the fusible link in main feed.

 

Yes I have 12v up front

 

You said you tested relays but how can you test them if you don't have power?

 

I stated bench test

 

Check the circuit breaker (part #4) in first diagram. It looks from the second ebay photo to be inline a few inches from fuse panel. If all that is good, I would verify and clean all grounds and test voltage through ignition switch when key is cycled.

Sorry if you have tried all this, just thinking outloud.

 

Hello, my wires broke off connection #2 and #3 would you be able to tell me or show me a link to get replacement? I tried splicing them all in a circular terminal, but it’s not working, I’m not to familiar with” fusible link” and obviously I have limited knowledge..any input woukd be great and appreciated,..thank you

 

Part number 2 & 3 in that diagram are also fusible links near the starter solenoid. Need to check them.

 

As stated above, take a look at the black fusible link, connected to stud on starter solenoid.
The blue fusible links are connected to voltage regulator.
Where is the loose wire you shorted to ground located?

 

under the dash I was looking for the wire for the momentary push button

 

I checked the circuit breaker and the fusible link both tested good
what next?

 

I found a loose 12v wire

Where does the loose wire go?
Do you know what it is disconnected from?


Check socket A1 in fuse box for 12 volts. It is a direct feed to the fusible link by starter solenoid.
If you have 12 volts circuit is good to here.

You said fuse is good (the one next to A1). So that means the wire connected to A2 (red wire) should have 12 volts.
The other end of this red wire is socked D on ignition switch plug. Unplug ignition switch and check socket D for 12 volts. If 12 volts present, circuit is good to here.

Then check for continuity from ignition switch plug contacts B and C to socket D1 in fuse box. It will be under the EFI relay.

 

my fuse box is different from yours but I will try anyway

 

this is my key wire layout

 

I have a 2009 800efi

??????????????

All my diagrams are for a 2009 RZR.
What year RZR do you have?

 

2009 Polaris Ranger RZR Sport

 

The above fuse box is for a 2011 or newer RZR.

A 2009 fuse box looks like this.

Did a previous owner rewire your RZR?

 

View attachment 671551

The above fuse box is for a 2011 or newer RZR.

A 2009 fuse box looks like this.
View attachment 671552

Did a previous owner rewire your RZR?

possibly I don't know

 

One more thing the speedo flash the fuel gauge and the clock I don't know if it has anything to do with the problem

 

I found a loose 12v wire

Have you reconnected the loose wire?
It may be the voltage source for all your dead circuits.

 

Unfortunately that is not the case seems like the fuel pump is not receiving the signal from ecu the wire has continuity
And looking at the diagram above regarding the key switch the ecu doesn't match

 

I will work on some sketches for a 2011 electrical system, since that seems to be what you have.

Could you post a picture of your dash showing speedometer and momentary switch?

Does the connector on your ECU look like the 2011 picture below?

 

yes the 4012838

 

It appears that your 2009 RZR has been modified with a 2011 harness and components installed.
The 2011 harness does not use the yellow momentary switch, it has been replaced by a switch in the face of the speedometer.

The following trouble shooting steps are based on a 2011 schematic and harness.

POWER FUSES

You said all fuses are good.
Check contacts A, C, and E, at Power Fuse Block, for 12 volts.
If no voltage, check for broken wires at lug on starter solenoid.

If all good, reinstall Power Fuses and start checking at Fuse Box.

FUSE BOX

Check for 12 volts at fuse box contacts:
B3, EPS relay power in
D5, EFI fuse power in
D9, Chassis relay power in

If any don’t have 12 volts look for break in RD wires between Power Fuses and Fuse Box.

If all good:
Reinstall fuse and relays and check contact C at ignition switch plug for 12 volts.

If NO 12 volts, check continuity of RD/WH wire between contact C at ignition switch and contact D4 in fuse box (EFI fuse out).

If good, check Ignition Switch for continuity between C and D when key is in RUN position.

If ignition switch is good, check continuity of OG wire between contact D at ignition switch and contact C9 in fuse box (Chassis relay coil B+)

If continuity of OG wire is good, verify fuse box contact D8 (Chassis relay coil B-) has continuity to ground thru the diode in harness.

 

All the step you listed are good (exept the eps because my sxs has not one )but still nothing happens no fuel pump on or any other noise just the chassis relay click
How do I test the ecu I don't know anybody with a 2011 rzr to swipe to test
is anybody willing to test my ecu on their machine If i mail it
Thanks for your help

 

Since you don't have EPS, pull the relay and swap it for the fuel pump relay.
Check continuity of DG/YE wire between contact B4 in fuse box and cavity 19 in ECU connector. (fuel pump relay coil ground circuit)

 

There is continuity between b4 and pin 19 on ecu

 

Ok let me recap the situation I don't eve the eps relay and the wiring for it on the pin out for eps Is all ready a relay on the fuel pump relay The numbers on it are the same of the other relay I have attached picture of my wiring
On the back I have 2 fuse and four wire and plus a 20A square post fuse

 

Again, what is the loose wire that started this challenge connected to?
Does it have continuity to any contact in fuse box?

Trouble shooting lack of fuel pump cycling when turning key to on:
Did you bench test all the relays?
The ground path for fuel pump relay thru the ECU is to cavity 50, 51, or 52 (don't know which is for pump relay).
Check all three cavities for continuity to ground.

 

the wire was a 12v+ on white orange wire connected that to ground when all this mess start all the checking you posted are all good regarding the ground path to ecu all (50,51,52) have continuity to ground
Still nothing happen ,when I supply 12v to fuel pump or fan they will turn on to me seems like the relays are missing ground unless the ecu will supply ground on when needed if so may be the ecu at fault
Is any test can be done to ecu for testing?
Is anybody willing to test my ecu on their machine Try to avoid a any unnecessary expense prefer to use the money on upgrades the only thing I'm not sure is the diode if it is good or not

 

OG/WH wire, feeds winch switch and cigarette lighter.
Only thing that SHOULD be affected by shorting to ground would be the Accessory fuse blowing.
When you checked "ground path to ecu all (50,51,52)", did you check to frame, or negative terminal on battery?

 

To the frame

 

Is continuity good from frame to battery negative terminal?

 

yes
This are all the plug connector of my wire loom I dont no which is for winch switch or accessories ( I can assume the spade connector on pic# 3 is for 12v receptacle )

 

Check continuity on CAN High & CAN Low circuits.
Can High: Yellow wire, Speedo contact 1, Diagnostic contact H, and ECU cavity 36
Can Low: Dark Green wire, Speedo contact 2, Diagnostic contact G, and ECU cavity48
Might as well check Speedo contacts 3, 4, & 5 for power and ground.
No bent pins on ECU or speedo?

What color is this wire, and where does it go?

 

is orange white and is for accessories separate fuse

 

( I can assume the spade connector on pic# 3 is for 12v receptacle )

Should be a Orange/White wire and a Brown wire.

 

I am sure pulling for you to get this figured out. I check for updates evey night!