Sure you didn't hook that circuit breaker up backwards? You just have to start probing your circuits.

 

Put in the circuit break backwards... Now that's funny!

It's hard to know the "buzz" you refer to, but that might be inadequate voltage at the relays. Try checking voltage at the relays. Did you maybe add some wiring?

I know notting about the 800, but only one 20 amp fuse? Are you certain there are not more?

Have you looked at the sevice manual and started to trace back power from the fuel pump? It should be relatively simply to back track until you find the problem.

 

Yes, I think there is no chance circuit breaker is backwards. I have checked with a test light and have power at everything in the fuse box. I haven’t used a volt meter. I have taken apart and cleaned up the connections upstream. Not seeing power at the fuel pump.
haven’t opened the entire wire harness loom up yet. Been slowly tearing the bike apart to access. The process is very intrusive.
I regularly need to walk away as it’s so frustrating!

 

Would you advise my next step is opening up the entire wiring harness to look for the culprit? Should I start near where I spliced in the extension to relocate the fan circuit breaker? The process is a little overwhelming for me.
it seems that was the one thing I changed before the no start. I doubt that something failed coincidentally elsewhere at the same time.
Thoughts?

 

Dude if you open up that whole wiring loom you could make it worse. I was just pulling at straws about the backwards breaker but you said it ran perfectly fine before it. You had to of done something or pinched a wire while you relocated it. You might have to bite the bullet and take to a power sports mechanic. Good luck man.

 

Circuit breaker may be solid state and be sensitive to polarity. Try reversing your wires on it before tearing into the loom.

 

Circuit breaker polarity ? Come on guys...

 

dont go to that extreme just yet.
start with the K.I.S.S method... (Keep It Simple Stupid)
remove/check and clean ALL ground connection at the frame w/ wire brush
remove/check and clean ALL battery terminal connections w/ wire brush
retest.
remove connection at distribution block. check/test. also look for pushed out pins.
retest.

 

Get a voltmeter. Look at electrical schematic in the service manual. move from point to point until you see power. Do NOT get into the wire harness unless you have to

 

Thanks all, for your thoughts. I am sure there is a systematic approach to troubleshooting these things.
As stated above it ran fine (apart from no fan) I relocated, and replaced circuit breaker, which now tests fine.
I have cleaned, checked grounds and connections in the vicinity. But that is the only thing I changed prior to the no start. I did remove a piece of plastic loom and some old electrical tape when I spliced into to move the fan circuit breaker. I will start there and see if I knIcked or disturbed something. My last attempt, then I’m shipping it to the dealership 🤬. I hate letting it beat me, but I’m over my head.
Thanks again for the ideas.

 

second thread on same problem?

Check wire continuity of pump ground to chassis.
Contact #4 on on fuel pump harness plug.

Check wire continuity of pump 12v to fuse box.
Contact #3 on fuel pump harness plug to contact A4 on fuse box.

Pump relay ground (fuse box contact B4) is controlled by ECM.
Pull connector from ECM (behind drivers seat) and check contacts for corrosion, dirt, or water.
Check continuity between fuse box contact B4, and ECM plug contact 19 (#219).

A comment on your first post in this thread:
Key on power should give you TAIL lights.
BRAKE lights should come on with brake pedal being depressed.

2011 RZR 800
key to position 1, and . . . . Break lights are on.

And after re-reading first post, is the battery fully charged?
Engaging starter with low battery, may pull voltage down till relay drops out.
Relay drops out, disabling starter circuit . . voltage rises . . Relay pulls in engaging starter . . . Relay drops out . . .
Hence buzzing sound.

 

To clarify, tail light come on with the key, brake lights when pedal is pressed. Battery is good, I put charger on it as well, but shows 12.78v and load tests good as well. I apologize for the”double thread” , I’m also new to forums🤨. As far as tracing wires and testing continuity etc, I may be over my head. Neither my eyesight or my patience can handle much more. I think I am going to bite the bullet and send it to a shop.

 

At least you honestly know when you’re over your head. Good for you. Let us know what you find out

 

Yes, I am very self aware.

 

Well, I conceded! It beat me! I am sure this has to be something simple. I left the skid plate, and plastics off, to hopefully save on some labor. I hope the dealership doesn’t rape me too badly! But I am sure it will be cheaper than the sledgehammer approach I have been contemplating!!
I will be sure to post the outcome when the find a solution. Although they may not get it inside for a week!
Stay tuned.

 

Good luck. A week that's super fast for a Polaris dealer. By me your lucky if you get it back after 2 months.

 

Here is an update: after 2 weeks at dealership I got a call today. Said they have put over four hours into diagnosing already and gotten no where. She said I do have 12volts at the fan circuit breaker now! Which I had when I brought it there! I had stripped most plastic/skid plate etc, and included a typed chronology of everything I have already checked.
she tells me they think I need a whole new wire harness ( $1000 part) or the ECU.
they say their diagnostic tool is not reading the bike at all.
I am going in to talk to the mechanic tomorrow, but kinda feel I’m getting screwed!

 

Here is an update: after 2 weeks at dealership I got a call today. Said they have put over four hours into diagnosing already and gotten no where. She said I do have 12volts at the fan circuit breaker now! Which I had when I brought it there! I had stripped most plastic/skid plate etc, and included a typed chronology of everything I have already checked.
she tells me they think I need a whole new wire harness ( $1000 part) or the ECU.
they say their diagnostic tool is not reading the bike at all.
I am going in to talk to the mechanic tomorrow, but kinda feel I’m getting screwed!

Oh god. Sounds like typical polaris dealer scams to me. See all they do is throw parts at it instead of troubleshooting. I swear they pick people up from Wal-Mart to work as mechanics at a Polaris dealership. Well it's your call cause i would say you are getting screwed. They are gonna replace the entire wiring harness that's is big time dealer pay day. Unreal

 

ECU is a 400$ plus part right there. The dealer is that deep already in labor. Man.....i feel for you. You were just relocating two wire's? How did it turn into this? Wow......sucks man. Good luck.

 

I'd put it back to original config first and see how that is. I know that fuse location is bad but replacing a whole harness and ECU is extreme and they can't guarantee success.

 

Agree.

 

So, after two and a half weeks, I went to the dealership, and had a chat. The guy was a complete dick! I asked what he had done, and how he came to the conclusion I need to replace my entire wiring harness,and he basically told me my list I had typed out for him Of the items already checked. I even had all the plastics and skid plate removed to make his life easier. I asked him if he has tested continuity on any of the wires, or put power direct to fuel pump. Nope!
He claims that his diagnostic tool won’t “communicate “ with the bike. He has thrown his hands up , his answer to my question was “come and get your bike, and you can knock yourself out”! Very disappointed with service and the “just throw new parts on it until it’s fixed” attitude! Doesn’t anyone diagnose/troubleshoot and repair anymore?? Bike will be picked up this week, and I am back to the drawing board.
if anyone knows of a electrical guru near wasaga beach Ontario, please let me know.

 

Polaris dealers don't troubleshoot they just rip you off. I actually have a good dealership near me with a certified tech and is pretty good but he manages doofus mechanics that can't even tighten a hose clamp. What I would recommend is get on Facebook and ask for help locally like on what's happening Ontario or something like that. Should be someone in the area with power sports knowledge that can get this figured out for you. It's Canada so there should be some knowledgeable people for powersports. Have them work on it at your home so you can watch him and communicate with him as long as you have tools.Good luck. Hope you get it going soon.

 

Check other dealers in your area. In my home town, the dealer's mechanics are incompetent. In the town 30 miles away, they are quite sharp.

 

Check this thread 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

 

Check this thread 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

That was an interesting thread. Man that guy who had the problem really did some work. He wasn't messing around. He got it though.

 

Yes, I ready through it all, and did get some ideas. I went and ran a jumper (used my test light) from ground on battery, and poked the other end behind the green wire (he spoke of in his post) going into the EFI relay. I could feel it click when I turned the key on! I pressed brake and turned key to start, and it rolled over!! Still no start, and no fuel pump whirling, but a victory for me! I feel this is indicating bad ground somewhere. I took the big grounding point under the drivers seat apart again and wire wheeled and sanded everything down and put it all back together. No change.
then we had a big storm blow through here so I went in. Downloaded a service manual, and reading more on the forums. I have a buddy coming at some point who is going to teach me the finer points of using a multi meter, and help me trace wires etc.
I am determined to beat this thing now……. And then go chop some donuts in the Polaris dealer parking lot😁👍.

 

Yes, I ready through it all, and did get some ideas. I went and ran a jumper (used my test light) from ground on battery, and poked the other end behind the green wire (he spoke of in his post) going into the EFI relay. I could feel it click when I turned the key on! I pressed brake and turned key to start, and it rolled over!! Still no start, and no fuel pump whirling, but a victory for me! I feel this is indicating bad ground somewhere. I took the big grounding point under the drivers seat apart again and wire wheeled and sanded everything down and put it all back together. No change.
then we had a big storm blow through here so I went in. Downloaded a service manual, and reading more on the forums. I have a buddy coming at some point who is going to teach me the finer points of using a multi meter, and help me trace wires etc.
I am determined to beat this thing now……. And then go chop some donuts in the Polaris dealer parking lot😁👍.

Hell yea lol you got this. Did better than the stealership did already. Good luck man.

 

Pverra I'm doing some wire tracing on the diagram based on what is working and not working. I read earlier that with the key in the run position the dash lights up, the tail lights are on and brake lights work when peddle is pressed. But no fuel pump and when key turned to start it will not crank over. Is that correct? Can you check a couple of things and let me know the results?
1- Key on -Do the headlights work
2- Key on - is there power in the acc socket ?
3- Key on - is there power on the red wire in the plug for the ignition coil?
4- Key on - is there power on the orange wire in the plug for the speed sensor?
5- pull the plug off the temp sensor on the motor, then turn on the key. Does the fan start?

 

Ok people, sorry for the lengthy delay in updating. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new ecu. Since I will no longer deal with the local “stealership”, I went with an aftermarket from another (non brand specific) shop. Back ordered for a month and a half. Finally arrived and totally different plug🤬. Refund given, time wasted. Three dealerships in Ontario have OEM for $585+ tax and required to bring machine there to have programmed/flashed @ shop rate!
Not in the budget, so ordered used off EBay, from Rzr 800 (s), but same part #. From known running machine.
Arrived yesterday, and “ta-da” , fuel pump runs…cranks…..starts!! Only problem, check engine light on, and idles a little erratically. Doesn’t seem to hit as high of rpm as before. Although haven’t driven yet. Haven’t put much time in on it (Thanksgiving here🙄), but any suggestions what to do next? Will I still need a reflash? Any help retrieving or clearing codes? Thanks again as always!

 

Ok people, sorry for the lengthy delay in updating. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new ecu. Since I will no longer deal with the local “stealership”, I went with an aftermarket from another (non brand specific) shop. Back ordered for a month and a half. Finally arrived and totally different plug🤬. Refund given, time wasted. Three dealerships in Ontario have OEM for $585+ tax and required to bring machine there to have programmed/flashed @ shop rate!
Not in the budget, so ordered used off EBay, from Rzr 800 (s), but same part #. From known running machine.
Arrived yesterday, and “ta-da” , fuel pump runs…cranks…..starts!! Only problem, check engine light on, and idles a little erratically. Doesn’t seem to hit as high of rpm as before. Although haven’t driven yet. Haven’t put much time in on it (Thanksgiving here🙄), but any suggestions what to do next? Will I still need a reflash? Any help retrieving or clearing codes? Thanks again as always!

I would think you need it reflashed. That known running machine you got it from could of had the check engine light on. Probably going to have to tune TPS again. Sadly polaris dealer will have to hook it up to digital wrench and they can tune it from there.

 

Ok, latest update. As I said above the new (used) ecu arrived, plugged in, starts and runs. Idles erraticaly , check engine light is on, and seems like it goes in limp mode above 2-2500 rpm. I have also learned that although same part number, the ecu I got was from a 2014 (mine is a 2011). Not sure if this is an issue. So scroll through the menu to “check eng” and it shows a code : 0520 194 - 3. I am reading this has to do with “throttle release signal” that the voltage is to high. I.e - stuck throttle cable.(which it isn’t) . I have looked around the throttle pedal for a electrical plug of sorts, but don’t see anything. Is this something added after 2011? Called every dealer in 100 km of me, and they can look at it in Dec. Deer season is here, and I could really use it! Any advice, or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!

 

What is the part number of original ECU?
What is the part number of replacement ECU?
What is part number on sticker on both ECUs?


TRS - Throttle Release Sensor
Added to 800 in 2012 or 2013
It is to prevent unintended runaway launching IF you start RZR in gear with gas pedal fully depressed.
Obviously an added feature by Corporate Lawyers, after someone had alleged experience.

See attached PDF.