Yes you can wall mount the E-Track... Put a load lock in front of the front tires and behind the rear tires and secure front and rear to the E-Track...

 

To the OP: Is there a way you could E-Trak the floor allowing it to be used for the Snowmobile AND RZR? That seems like it would be more versatile.

 

Grant22, I have been trying to come up with a way to E-track the floor that would not get in the way of the snowmobile. My main concern is the studs and carbides of the snowmobile having problems with the E-track. I thought about rolling rubber matting over the whole floor to cover the E-track also. I will need to cover the floor anyway since it is aluminum tread plate (Studs and ATP do not go well together).

Those of you with E-track, it looks like it is just fastened to an aluminum floor with sheet metal screws in every other hole of e-track? I noticed the manufacturer is not really willing to give install advice for liability reasons.

 

DR, Those studs likely won't come into contact with the E-track, but the carbines may, right? Lots of rubber sled rubber matting options you could cut to fit it seems. Maybe take some real good measurements and try to position the E-Track so that you can get a good solid tie on the XP and also be able to hold the sled down without running the carbides on the metal track. There's got to be a happy medium in there somewhere... I think those ski carbides will shred those tracks over time and could damage your studs if one gets lodged and ripped out. Tricky combo, but got to be a way.

 

Just mount it to the floor, the width of your rzr tires. Then when your hauling the snowmobile, put it between the tracks, so you'll only have the rzr going over the track. There is plenty of other strap options, use bonnets on the rzr tires and regular ratchet straps for the snowmobile. Etrailer.com has good prices.

 

I used stainless 1/4 - 20 nuts and bolts and only used them every other 3-4 holes or so. This was, however, mounted to a metal decking so I can get away with less fasteners.

I guess the studded tires/tracks do throw a wrench into the operation.

Could you stagger the vehicles in relation to the E-Trak? Meaning shift the snowmobile to one side of the E-Trak or vice versa?

Keep in mind, using E-Trak on a horizontal surface will reduce the load capacity of it considerably. Not only are the walls weaker than your floor, but E-Trak is designed for a 'direct pull' if you know what I'm sayin'.

Here's a pic of my operation.......but no snowmobile is in the mix here in AZ.

Good luck!

 

I but E-trak on both the walls and floor of my enclosed trailer so I can tie down RZRs and secure furniture and other items I need to hall around. I used self tapping screws in the medal studs of the walls and into the cross braces of the floor. I then filled in the other E-trak holes that don't align with the metal braces with wood screws that have heads that match the self tapping metal screws so they all look the same.

 

That sounds like a very neat method to use for E-Trak.

I hope the OP posts some before and after pics so we can see what's up.

 

I'll get a picture soon but I have an 14'x7' enclosed trailer with E-Track on the walls 3' up the side as well as on the floor at the sides and 1 track running up the middle for a total of 3 on the floor and 5 total in the trailer. I haul the RZR, Harleys and a Trike. and with the track on the wall, I can put 2x4's across and put plywood for a shelf or whatever. It also allowes me to tie down at the rollbar and not the bumpers or whatever. We also camp in the trailer and put outdoor carpet down when we get th where ever were going.

 

We have moved a snowmobile for a friend and just pud down a rubber mat in the middle and had no problems

 

I thought I would show you a factory E track install. This trailer was custom with a 7 foot door heigth and E track on 56 inch centers on the floor and wall mounted e track as well. It works extremely well and even keeping mud out of the tracks has proven easy with a high pressure sprayer.

outside of the trailer

Tire bonnet tiedown

Closeup of the very back of the trailer

Another view

I have been meaning to show this trailer off as its been perfect hauling the RZR anywhere I need to. The lumber in the back is for some home rennovation we are doing FYI.

 

Thanks guys! I think I am just going to floor mount the E-tracks at the width of the tires of the RZR. Then when putting the snowmobile in, I will lay rubber matting over the whole floor and E-tracks. I will try to get some before and after pics up.

Can you cut the E-tracks to length? They come in 2', 5', 8' and 10' lengths. I would like to cut it so it runs all the way from front to back. The stock lengths won't add up to what I need. I also have an aluminum floor, so I will probably just drill and bolt with 1/4" lags and washer, lock-washer and nut from underneath the trailer

 

 

I am new to posting pics on here, last post and this are a couple pics to show what I am working with. I am going to order the E-track tonight and hope to have it by next weekend for install.

 

First of all, you should be jailed for drilling any holes in that ultra clean trailer. It's too pretty!

Second, yes, you can cut to length.

Third, consider Harbor Freight Tools (Itsruf's favorite place) if you have one near you for the Etrak......even they can't screw up Etrak.

Nice trailer man, look forward to seeing it once you're done!

 

I am not feeling good about drilling holes in the new trailer!!! I wonder if E-track makes a suction cup tie down instead. Hahaha It's even prettier when you crawl under it. Never seen that much shinny aluminum, but as it is now, there are no tie downs. It came with d-rings that I can install where ever, but thought I would skip the D-rings, and if I gotta drill holes anyway, might as well spend the money and get E-track.

I didn't know Harbor Freight had E-track. I have one by me. I will go there to get it. Thanks for the heads up.

 

One more thing, if you think you may ever get a RZR S or XP, think about placing your Etraks a little wider to accomodate the wider track of a possible future vehicle.

 

I wondered about mounting just a bit wider, but thought I would lose effectiveness since the weight of RZR would not be right on the e-track. This would also make it easier to put the snowmobile between the e-tracks since the ski stance and the wheels of the rzr are the same.

 

Although it would be optimum to place your tires directly over the mounting points (E-Trak), it's a 950 lb machine (not that heavy of a load)......you should be more than ok offsetting a bit, and it's gravy that it would allow your SM to go in between.

 

Just keep in mind the track can become packed with mud and dirt, making it tough to move the anchors or clean. That's what steered me away from that set up, it is a neat set up tho. I have that track system in the bed of my Nissan and I love it!

 

d-rings and bonnets from harbor freight.

 

d-rings and bonnets from harbor freight.

Nice setup Big...

OP: You have factory D rings on the new trailer and you're not using those why? :think: Maybe I missed that part.

 

cut up an old plasic bed liner thats how my buddy dose it works good and easy to find for free hell I have two right now.

 

Couple of more ideas:
You can fast forward to 2:00 to see e track on my little trailer:

Here's a new clamp system from SuperClamps:

And of course SuperGlides work awesome too!

 

I have mounted alot of E-track in various trailers. If you are mounting on the walls make sure you locate the studs (if your wall is skinned) prior to designing your layout. You don't want the ends terminating off of a stud location. I mounted it using 3/16 stainless pop rivets. I have an industrial pneumatic rivet gun. HF sells a knockoff for much cheaper and it will pull Al. rivets well enough but my friend's broke the collet pulling SS rivets. If you know of someone with a HD gun rivets work well and are flush mounting. BTW, I have used riveted track to hold down race cars and street cars up to 3200lbs without any pulling up of the track.

Robin A.

 

BTW, I have used riveted track to hold down race cars and street cars up to 3200lbs without any pulling up of the track.

Robin A.

That may be true Robin, but the actual test is how it holds when it really needs to, in an accident. I'm thinking those rivets would blow right out with any real force, especially once a couple popped, it would rip apart on impact like a zipper.

 

Just my opinion but on an all-aluminum trailer I think I'd add something to reinforce the floor under the tracks. I'm assuming your floor is 1/8" plate? How far apart are the crossmembers?

 

If you put E-track on the floor, like the wall, layout the sections where the predrilled holes line up to tie in to the floor cross-members. Reinforcement of the floor is not necessary, IME, if you plan this out to intercept the most cross-members. Don't just throw it down and start fastening it in without planning this out. Mark's thinking is correct in that poorly anchored track (ie. into the flooring without tying into structural members) will pull up along with your floor when you least expect it.

 

One other thing...Many different types of anchors are available with e-track. I suggest avoiding the cheaper 3-piece non-spring loaded type clips. The spring loaded ones are about twice the cost up front but save you money considering the cost repair damage done when "that clip I KNOW I fastened properly" comes loose. Learn from my experience on this one...LOL

 

If you haven't bought already, check out ebay...I saved a lot of $$ by ordering my kit from there (8 5' tracks, 8 d-rings, 8 strapped d-rings, and 8 end caps for $140 shipped). The only place I found it locally was Tractor Supply, and they want $12 for a 2' section and $5 per d-ring.

I ran two strips down the outer edge of my trailer, 2' off of the walls...which put the tracks under the rzr tires, and allows me to put 2 quads side by side, and the tracks run directly under the center of them. I'm going to order another kit so I can run a strip along each wall, about 3' up for securing loads to the wall (grill, nitrogen bottle for filling tires, etc).

As for securing it down, I bought a cheap $30 stud finder, which worked really well to locate the center of the beams under the wood floor. My floor is 3/4" wood, so I used 3/4" long wood screws ever 3rd hole, and used 2" self-tapping metal screws to tie into each beam under the floor.

I will post a few pics later this evening of the setup.

*edit*

the seller on ebay is globalpartspro if anybody else is interested in picking some up.

 

Jim, I understand your concern regarding rivets. If the proper rivet is chosen, installed correctly into the underlying structural element, The will hold better than a drillscrew. I have hauled many vehicles much heavier than RZRs and have not had a problem. My son had an offroad excursion in my 45ft bus at 76mph when a driver's front tire grenaded and everything in the trailer tied down with the e-track held fine (including my porsche cabriolet and two formula cars).