[JC Whitney]

No I dont leave it 4x4 all day, I look ahead and switch it in as needed and then back to 2wd. I think for $23000 you should be able to leave it in 4x4 all day though.

 

[JC Whitney]

In another thread someone said they had to replace the output drive and that was the cure. So I guess its leaking out of the splines not the seal.That part is $360 retail so will see what my dealer does.

 

[HoustonHayseed]

JC, I had the seals replaced twice in my TRE and the passenger side still seeped. I finally had the hubs replaced under extended warranty and it stopped the leak. The seals fit around the outside of the hubs and stop AWD fluid from leaking around the outside of the hubs. Inside the hubs is a metal plate that is friction fit inside the center of the hubs. Fluid can leak through this fiction fit. If you are interested, I have a lot of photos that I sent a friend that has a leak that he is working on. PM me with your email and I will forward you the photos that explain the two sources of leaks on the hubs.

 

[JC Whitney]

JC, I had the seals replaced twice in my TRE and the passenger side still seeped. I finally had the hubs replaced under extended warranty and it stopped the leak. The seals fit around the outside of the hubs and stop AWD fluid from leaking around the outside of the hubs. Inside the hubs is a metal plate that is friction fit inside the center of the hubs. Fluid can leak through this fiction fit. If you are interested, I have a lot of photos that I sent a friend that has a leak that he is working on. PM me with your email and I will forward you the photos that explain the two sources of leaks on the hubs.

PM sent,Thanks

 

[spent]

Could you guys post those pictures if its possible? thanks

 

[HoustonHayseed]

Below are photos below of my understanding of the source of AWD fluid leaks where the axles connect to the AWD on a Gold Matte LE. First some background information. I bought my LE in August of 2016 shortly after they were announced. I have over 2,000 miles on the unit, much of it in AWD going very slow. I do a lot of rock crawling. My AWD has been noisy since day one and has been plagued with fluid leaks. To try to quiet it down, I have replaced the pinion bearing, replaced the carrier bearing and finally replaced the prop shaft with a one piece RCV prop shaft. The AWD is still noisy but currently does not leak. I am not a mechanic. I have a great mechanic that does my work and I ask a lot of questions. I took photos of some parts that I had replaced to explain to a fried where leaks can happen in the AWD where the axles connect.

Above is the hub assembly in the AWD. On a TRE model, they are 4 1/4" from end to end. The high spots near each end are the bearings. The small portion past the bearing are where the seals go and the axles are inserted.

This is the inside of one of the hubs. There is a circular piece of metal that is pressed into the center of the hub. It is a friction fit metal to metal. AWD fluid can leak between this center circular piece of metal and the inside of the hub. On the other side of the circular piece of metal is the end of the axle. The fluid works down the splines and coats the can on the axle.

This is the outside view of the hub. There are splines inside the hub that the axle slides into. The bearing is an open bearing and is lubricated by the AWD fluid. The ball bearings are visible in the bearing. You can also see the outside of the circular piece of metal that is supposed to seal the fluid from flowing from the hub to the axle.

This is a photo of the seal that fits around the outside end of the hub. If you look at a cross section of the seal, it is U shaped with rubber flaps over the top of the U. There is a spring inside the U that holds the seal tight against the hub.

This is a photo of the hub with the seal in place. This is kind of misleading. The seal is actually pressed into a recess in the AWD cover plate and when the cover plate is bolted onto the AWD housing, the seal fits over the hub as shown in the photo.

In my experience, there are two places that the AWD can leak fluid onto the axles. I have had both types of leak. It can leak around the seal, in two different ways. The seal is pressed into a recess in the cover plate. I had a leak between the cover plate and the seal. The hubs spin inside the seal. The spring inside the seals hold the seal tight against the hub. I am not aware of a leak between the hub and seal on my machine.

The second way that the AWD can leak fluid onto the axle is through the circular piece of metal that is friction fit inside the hub. I have had this problem and had the hubs replaced under extended warranty. Replacing the hubs stopped the leak. My mechanic had coated the end of the axles with gray antiseize compound. The fluid would leak through the splines and I had a mixture of gray antiseize compound and AWD fluid on the axle cans.

 

[JC Whitney]

HH, this helps alot. I talked to my dealer today and they are just starting on my warranty of the above problem and I explained the possibility of the fluid leaking in the spline area too. They said he would make a note and look for it during tear down.Thanks again,JC

 

[HoustonHayseed]

JC, Good luck on the warranty repair. I bought an extended warranty from RPM One when I purchased the RZR. The mechanic that I use has been in the repair business for 5 years. RPM One considered that sufficient and let him do the repair work under warranty. When he told them that the seals had been replaced and it did not stop the leak, they agreed that the next step was to replace the hubs. They paid for the hubs and labor. They paid the mechanic directly and I paid nothing. I just signed the receipt that the work had been completed and they mailed the mechanic a check. It was a great repair experience.

 

[JC Whitney]

While visiting the Windrock train in my truck yesterday, I talked to a TRE owner and he said zero drive line vibs with his. I also asked about a diff leak and he said no so I looked at the right front and no leak. Later he was showing me front bumper/skid plate area and i walked around to the left side to get a better look and sure enough his left side CV was wet near the diff. So add one "no vib" and one more front diff leak to the list of TRE owners.

 

[Moab.Jim]

I have a regular 17 1k that I noticed a driveline vibe in 4WD only. I read a lot and then had the driveline balanced and straightened at a driveline shop. I did not have it phased because I think Polaris built them that way for a reason, (driveline shop agreed). I also replaced the carrier bearing with a new one (not Polaris) and did the silicone repair on the rubber part of the carrier. It is much smoother now just like in 2WD when I am in 4WD but I never put in 4WD unless I need it. No evidence of a dif leak but that part may be different on a LE model. I have about 500 miles on mine and did the driveline work at about 250. It was still under warranty when I did the driveline work but I figured the dealer would say it is normal. Driveline balanced and straightened should be about $100 to 150

 

[steverj64]

Me Too. Since new. Just assumed it is because the shaft is so long from the engine to the front end and it passes right under our seats. When I purchased I noticed the output of the transaxle is pointed a little downward. I assumed because of the 1.5" suspension lift associated with the vehicle. However I just noticed the front shaft has a wear mark on it after a long weekend where its been rubbing on the safety hoop (u bolt to keep it in place if it breaks, right before it goes under the cabin). I just clocked in at 825 hours. Got a check engine light too this weekend but I didn't know how to check for the code before it went out. I sure don't want to have to take it back to the dealership after every use. Just got it back for a fuel gage sending unit issue right before I went out.

 

[HoustonHayseed]

I had a mechanic install a Sandcraft carrier bearing on my TRE. It changed the angle of the driveshaft and the safety hoop wore the driveshaft into two pieces. I ordered an RCV one piece driveshaft and installed that and removed the safety hoop.

 

[JC Whitney]

the trans remains in the same spot with or without lift on any independent suspension,lift is obtained thu some sort of suspension add on such as springs,spacers or drop brackets ect.poor design, long drive shaft plus the rubber mount on the carrier bearing and the down pointing transaxle is why you are seeing the mark on the hoop. not going to hurt anything as long as your carrier bearing/rubber mount are still good. I have the sandcraft motor mount to point the rear drive up and it did not help with vibs at all. find the other thread on location of the grease fitting for the center slip on the front portion drive shaft and grease yours.add a spacer under the hoop to raise it if you think its bad

 

[stetson]

My 2018 T & R from day 1 has had the growling/howling/vibration in 4wd high and low range. I now have 739 miles on it. I can hear it through my radio headset.

I have a message into the shop now waiting for a reply.

 

[Fury]

My 17 TRE had the vibration from day one but no diff noise. At about 400 miles the howling, growling and whining started. Talked to the dealer and got the "That's Normal" reply. At 800 miles it was so bad that I was afraid to take it out in the back country for fear of breaking down. I mounted my GoPro camera on the a-arm with the intention of recording the noise from the diff. I got a great video of the front prop shaft wobbling up and down as well as all of the different noises coming from the diff. I took the video and the contaminated diff fluid that I had drained and saved at 27 Hrs into the dealer. Long story short, a month and a half later I had new F&R prop shafts and a new front diff replaced under warranty. Being curious, I set up my GoPro again to get an "after" video. The new prop shaft didn't wobble as bad as the first one but there was still some out-of-round movement. The new diff was quiet. The only noise that I recorded was the agressive tire tread on the pavement. Well, that didn't last long. I now have 1400 miles on my TRE. I don't feel the prop shaft vibration but the "new" diff feels and sounds like it is going to come apart whenever I'm in 4wd. It's not so bad in 2wd but the growling is still there.
Also, another concern has developed with my TRE. When I'm crawling over large rocks or crossing a ditch at an angle I get a very loud "THUNK" from the front end. At times I can even feel a jerk in the steering wheel. I'm thinking that when one of the front wheels raises off the ground it starts to spin and when it makes contact again it catches and grabs the terrain. Sometimes the "THUNK" is so violent that I'm surprised that a corner hasn't broken off my machine. This can't be good for the drivetrain. I have owned an 800 S, a 900 XP and a 1000 XP before and have never experienced this problem before the TRE. I'm wondering if this is unique to the TRE. I would like to hear from any other TRE owners that are having this problem before I go back to the dealer for the "Growling" and "Thunking" issues.

 

[stetson]

4wd

2wd

recorded in waterproof case

 

[Greybeard]

HoustonHayseed and I had a terrible go around with our TREs. We ended up having to replace our hubs with a kit from Hawk Engineering and a Driveshaft from RCV (through Craig Stumph @ proutvparts). I tried repairing my hubs as can be seen here but it worked only for a few hours. Honestly I love the capability of my TRE but I am really tired of shoring up Polaris by replacing their low quality parts. Between the clutch, driveline and front Demand drive I have spent in the neighborhood of 4 grand on upgrades to make it work like it should have from the beginning and as someone noted, when driving with 4WD on but not activated it still interferes with steering.:crying

 

[Fury]

IMHO Polaris had good intentions when they came out with the TRE. However, they really screwed up in the engineering and design of the front differential. With so many TRE owners having ongoing problems with these models I believe that Polaris should step up to the plate and issue a recall to either provide a fix or offer to buy the units back. If TRE owners can't use the features that they bought the units for then they did not receive full value for the amount paid. A reputable company like Polaris Industries should correct this wrong without hesitation.

 

[Greybeard]

IMHO Polaris had good intentions when they came out with the TRE. However, they really screwed up in the engineering and design of the front differential. With so many TRE owners having ongoing problems with these models I believe that Polaris should step up to the plate and issue a recall to either provide a fix or offer to buy the units back. If TRE owners can't use the features that they bought the units for then they did not receive full value for the amount paid. A reputable company like Polaris Industries should correct this wrong without hesitation.

I agree, it has been an expensive hassle trying to get the driveshaft and Demand Drive to work as they should. And like all other XP1000s it still interferes with steering all the time the AWD switch is on. Oh well.

 

[Rockymtn5280]

4wd
https://youtu.be/jKBaBDOQnIw

2wd
https://youtu.be/xT3MZCwWRUU

recorded in waterproof case

That is EXACTLY what mine does. In 4WD, the wine.

Have not had any actual problems other than the right front diff leak. Warranty covered it and 200 miles later, no leaks.

Still have the wine.

Thanks for posting the videos.