A lot more information would be helpful. Year, make, u joint location. Picture of broken u joint. Without that: A u joint has a limited angle it can run safely. CV joints can run at more extreme angles and can take more lateral movement where a u joint will bind when it reaches its limit angle. U joints are much cheaper.

Only place used on RZR is the drive line to the front. That is a fixed angle and very small movement. If those are breaking would find the cause.

 

The heck kinda bind are you getting your self into thats causing you to break so many U-joints anyways?

 

The rear u-joint is prone to failure if you are hammering on it hard. I've broken one myself and it was 100% my fault. A HD driveshaft (CV or u-joint style) removes this weak link. Keep in mind the weak link has now moved somewhere else. An inexpensive alternative to high dollar aftermarket is take your driveshaft to a local drive line service shop. Have them build you one using better components, should be in the $300-500 range. @SuperATV makes a cost effective quality driveshaft in both styles. I have been running thier HD Bouncer driveshaft all year. I've beat in it pretty hard and the u-joints are still tight as when I put them in. Can't say I'd recommend it for the average Joe because they require constant maintenance. They make a good CV style that is almost an install and forget it besides annual maintenance. If you replace the DS I would suggest replacing the OEM carrier bearing with a quality unit as well.

 

It's been the rear u-joint on the driveshaft. 19 turbo 4seater. I'm not racing but like to climb hills on occasion. Probably rougher on it than the average Joe. Already swapped to a RS1 diff and better axles up front. The last time it broke I took it to a driveshaft place and this happened. Not blaming them just looking at new options from people that are running them. Thanks for the ideas

 

You might investigate the possibility of going to a bigger U joint. With the flange coupling it might be possible. Would have to have the shaft end changed to a bigger u joint and a bigger coupler that still fits the shaft. Suspect all that is available. As you said, the weak point will move to somewhere that might do more damage when it lets go, like the front U joint. Lot harder to get to.

The other thing is to BE SURE AND US A SPICER U JOINT. Not a cheap China one. If you break a Spicer joint then you will have major problems. Cheap China junk breaks easy. Have never seen a Spicer joint break. Have seen yokes ripped apart with U joint intact. Cheapest and easiest is to find a real Spicer U joint.

 

Here is the video of when it happened this time. At the end. The front end did come up but I was out of the gas mostly. Like I was saying its not the most aggressive driving but maybe more than some. This Joint probably had less than 100 miles on it and zero mud.

 

Putting good u-joints on a stock driveshaft is a waste of money. You'll twist the OEM driveshaft in two.

You might want to shorten the video to the time frame it happened if you want us to watch it. Not watching 11min of video.

 

Ive tried to ask if there was a way to post a video without it being a YouTube video. Couldn't get any answers. Any info on cv style vs ujoints.

 

Thanks for the help so far.

 

Not that I'm aware of, just youtube. CV style are sealed and require less maintenance. U-joints are stronger but require maintenance, periodic greasing.

 

Wait, U-joints are stronger than CV joints?


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Generally speaking a CV can handle greater load.

A cv is stronger than the standard needle bearing u-joint. But the larger needless bronze bushing style u-joints are stronger. I was thinking I'm terms of the needless u-joints but left that out.

 

I went through several u-joints. Last set installed was the Keller Spicer upgrade with bronze bushings. They were in great shape when I changed to cv style prop shaft as I was still getting some bad vibrations. Solid style carrier bearing was installed long ago with u-joint based prop shaft. CV style now using isolating style carrier bearing like OEM. The OEM prop shaft was no longer straight and yokes not phased correctly. Very pleased with the CV style prop shaft being quiet and vibration free. Maintenance requires shaft to be removed every 2000-3000 miles per manufacturer. Sealing boots can get compromised requiring unscheduled maintenance when grease starts to sling out.

 

I use RCV CV shafts. The stock shaft lasted me about 400 miles before the front u-joint failed. I don't like parts that break. The stock shaft is inadequate for anything other than mild trail use.

 

My RCV cv shaft kept taring boots. Finally it all broke loose on me up pea gravel hill ( Royal Blue) . I then went with SATV rhino drive with bounty series u joints.

The RCV shaft was nice while it lasted but just couldn’t hold up to my abuse on East Tn terrain. The Rhino Shaft with bounty U joints has lasted me longer than the RCV did and hasn’t failed me “ yet “ . Just my experience on the subject

 

A few of the RCV shafts have had the boots fail. I think they got that fixed. Glad to hear SuperATV shafts are holding up.

 

Many will discover that their yokes are slightly bent 'twisted' a few degrees.
its not obvious until you pull the original joints out. Take an appropriately sized socket and push through the yoke. Does the socket indicate yoke alignment?

Installing a good new bearing in a twisted yoke is a recipe for failure. And folks wonder why they continue to loose U Joint bearings. By the time your first bearing goes out odds are your yokes are twisted.

I also agree with the previous RCV shaft or same style CV shaft. DO NOT use a solid 'pillowblock' style bearing. There is not enough play to allow the CV shaft to shift. The rubber isolated 'Toyota' style carrier is a much better choice.
it also allows 'end play' which your diff and snorkle gear will appreciate. The entire shaft assembly is constantly moving angles and lengths. A solid pillowblock interferes with this.

Anyone want to buy a used SuperATV Carrier Bearing with a grease whip pre installed?

 

Old thread, but what did you decide on this?

 

You're not going to get answer from him as he's not been on the site for two years.

What exactly is your question?