Cage. Gear the transmission low. Sliders. Skid.

 

I’ve already got a 30% reduction in the portals. If I go any lower in the transmission I’ll be topping out at 25 in high gear, lol.

Aside from that, thanks.

 

Do not use ball joints that require snap rings. Kryptonite are a good value option.

Many say sliders when referring to "tree kickers". Steel is a horrible material to actually slide over rocks compared to plastics.
I prefer UHMW skid plates from factory UTV with the "sliders" option. I have no use for tree kickers and find they would only get in the way in my terrain (Western US rocks).

Only you will know if gearing is right for you. My 17 XP4T is regeared in trans plus 30% portals for 37s. It's a true crawler. You can do low and leave high range alone.

Reinforce the frame asap.

Agree with a real cage. Quality .095 wall. No need for 0.120 wall.

Steering will suffer. Plan on superatv ezsteer. The rack will eventually fail unless reinforced. Options are preemptive Sandcraft stabilizer, shock therapy race rack, or super atv rack (cheaper option, but not as strong). Full hydraulic is a very expensive but superior option. With no steering wheel installed my 600w ez-steer can turn lock to lock like turning a door knob.

Your next weak link is the prop shaft. Easy to twist a shaft if you get bouncing. Pick up a used take off to store in the trailer at the very least.

have you read this thread: Portals - The Definitive Guide ?

 

yeah, read the thread a few times before ordering my portals. Not going to claim I remember everything.

I’ve looked at some options for the steering including the EZ steering wheel and read about improving the mounts for the rack due to the holes being wallowed out over time. I don’t think hydraulic will be in my future but EZ steer and moving to a better rack when this one fails (or I decide it’s the priority). I’ll look at the Stabilizer also. Hadn’t considered that

Part of the reason I looked at Portals instead of a gear reduction is to reduce drivetrain stress. Now I’m more worried about stress at the A arms and trailing arm mounts.

Thanks

 

The gear reduction would have reduced drivetrain stress. Same with gearing a vehicle. Less power to do the same or more work.

 

True, but my axles would still be dealing with the full stress of turning 35s. With the portals I have all drivetrain components under less stress. A gear reduction could reduce it even more but I don’t think it will be necessary. With 35s I should still be a good 10-15% under stock for overall gearing with the biggest stress issue being suspension mounting points and steering.

once I have the 35s on and drive it I may decide to go ahead with a further reduction depending on how it feels. But it’s geared pretty low right now and I’m happy with it. Will be a little bit before I work through other upgrades and ready to mount new tires.

 

Since you have portals, just build it now for 37s and skip the cost of upgrading to them later.

 

Looks like I’d need a lift kit to fit 37s, and I really prefer keeping my suspension sitting level at ride height.

 

With the portals I have all drivetrain components under less stress

I'm not really familiar with the portals, but am a mechanical engineer, and I'm here to tell ya, you just put an increased amount of pressure on the on a lot of other drivetrain components..

Unless I'm thinking of something else. I got my info from

Portals - The Definitive Guide

This thread will be about addressing all things portal related. Where you will be able to find information about portals, setups, and ask questions. I get asked a lot of questions about portals both here and on the trail. I will lay out my thoughts and try to provide some insight. The guys at...

www.rzrforums.net

Cons:
1) Cost (more than just the portal cost - I'll go into that later)
2) Increased steering effort
3) Harder on components

SO, your initial thought could possibly, maybe, could be sorta wrong.. Not that I have a dog in this race, I looked into portals, and considered a second mortgage on the house, then decided to do a gear reduction, which I'm in process of right this very minute.. So far the hardest thing is going to be getting the #$%^&! tranny out of the RS1..

But I'm determined to do so, and according to those in the know, I'll be able to run 35's... I'm guessing I'll need to upgrade the prop shaft, and I have new Rhino axles to help with the stresses...

I am NOT the end all for information on this, and had you not mentioned less stress, I likely would have kept my opinion in my pocket LOL..

 

Yes, suspension is under more stress and steering components due to the 4” push out on the front tires.

But I was speaking specifically of the drivetrain. I’ve already beefed up the an arms, trailing arms and radius rods. Next will be ball joints and steering linkages along with beefing up the mounting points for the trailing arms and an arms.

From my perspective it’s much easier to beef up the suspension components than diffs and transmission components behind the reduction. And large tires are already going to require some suspension beef so that’s something that would happen regardless.

That’s my take on it anyways. Plus I get some lift without running out my suspension travel and an 8” wider footprint for stability.

 

Your on the right track. The A Arms are a problem for me with portals. The plastic bushing do not last on my rig and the Mega Ball joints I use are barley adequate.

 

1. Cage even a low speed endo can crush your head with a stock cage.
2. Harnesses
3. UHMW skid
4. Winch - sounds like you have that covered.
5. Me? Gear reduction
6. Portals

 

1. Cage even a low speed endo can crush your head with a stock cage.
2. Harnesses
3. UHMW skid
4. Winch - sounds like you have that covered.
5. Me? Gear reduction
6. Portals

I put in harnesses before my first trip out. Didn’t do any serious crawling or steep climbs, etc. But seemed like a good first move.

 

Well, I see one of our wizards are here @RZR_Joe , I'll summon the other 2....

@Crash City SxS
@SuperATV

 

Well, I see one of our wizards are here @RZR_Joe , I'll summon the other 2....

@Crash City SxS
@SuperATV

 

@Younggun84 , you're off to a good start buddy. Tons of good tips in here so far.

You have the arms, portals, ball joints, tie rods, radius rods, skid plate, and the rest of the basics.

Its time to head down to Windrock and test it out.

 

@Younggun84

Its time to head down to Windrock and test it out.

I'm there now 😁

 

Your original post said you were considering 35" Roxxzillas in standard compound. Unless something has changed in the last few months, they only make soft compound in 35's or larger. I now have about 300-350 miles on a set of 35 Roxxzillas stickies. Not showing signs of any noticeable wear yet and work very well.

 

You’re correct. While looking around I’ve found there are no 35” standard compound. I considered a different tire but decided as much as I’m spending to make this a good crawler it wouldn’t make sense to handicap it with the tires

 

I'm amazed at just how sticky they are.. can't wait to mount and use them...

 

FWIW, I could buy anything I wanted, and got rockzilla 35"....

 

Temper your initial expectations with the rozzzillas or any soft rock tire for that matter. They suck until they break in fully. A half worn roxxzilla is perfect. When first using stickies you'll see chunks of rubber being ripped off and you'll question your decision. Give them time and miles and you will love them in the rocks.

 

This bushing replaces the delrin bushings. The same center crush sleeve is used.