Make sure your shocks are turned all the way down first. Then just use a pry bar or somthing to get it in position. Thats what I did, and it worked. A little fiddling and you can get it in there.

 

I wouldn't put zip ties on the coils. Too dangerous if they start letting go.

It can be done without using a spring compressor tool. It is difficult to do but if you stick a tapered punch into the shock mounting point hole and then into one side of the lift kit peice you can pry the shock up to get the bolt started.

 

You can get a McPherson Strut Spring compressor from AutoZone or Advance...they'll let you borrow it for a $40 deposit; you can either keep it and they keep the $40 or you can take it back and get your money back.

 

Heres what I did. I took a ratchet strap, tied it around the bottom of the shock and the other end to a high point of the frame behind and centre of the shock. tighten the ratched and it will slide the bottom of the shock into place. It will be a little tight, but you can still rotate the bottom of the shock to get it in place. Hick, I know, But do what you gotta do to get the job done.

 

If you have to force the shock in or compress it to get it in, that is not good. The reason it won't go in is because your arms and cv's have reached full droop and you are trying to force it further into a bind. We have never gotten to more than 1.5" further before cv bind. We have tried a couple of times in an attempt to provide a 2" longer shock kit in lieu of a lift kit. Lift kits are 2".

 

My kit is a 2" kit, and they do fit, they are just a bit tight when the machine is up in the air (and or brand new with new springs). Once you set that thing down, its just fine. I actually had to modify my design to work with your shocks for a customer, since then, I sell all of them to fit with your shocks and Elka's shocks.

What I did when I installed one of my kits was I put my foot on the wheel hub and pulled up a bit on the box and it went in just fine. It also helps to back off the pre-load on the shocks to the minimum when installing the kit.

I have probably 150+ kits out there and so far so good....its a good kit, and a perfect size in my personal opinion.

 

Some lift kits may be 2" but not ALL..

 

I just installed my RD 2" lift blocks two weeks ago and had minimal problems getting them in. I took the preload off the shocks, "followed the instructions", and in about an hour it was all done. I initially had a problem getting one of the front shocks to line up with the holes but then realized the 4x4 I had on top of my floor jack was holding the A-arms up ever so slightly. Once I adjusted the jack and applied a little downward pressure with my foot, the bolts slipped right in. They really add to the looks of the machine, clear my 28 inch tires (with the help of a 1 inch spacer) and provide the much needed clearance for the RZR. In my opinion, it is a quality product, well thought out design with quality workmanship. I am very happy I went with Rubber Down rather than some of the other cheaper and more expensive kits.

 

I just installed my RD 2" lift blocks two weeks ago and had minimal problems getting them in. I took the preload off the shocks, "followed the instructions", and in about an hour it was all done. I initially had a problem getting one of the front shocks to line up with the holes but then realized the 4x4 I had on top of my floor jack was holding the A-arms up ever so slightly. Once I adjusted the jack and applied a little downward pressure with my foot, the bolts slipped right in. They really add to the looks of the machine, clear my 28 inch tires (with the help of a 1 inch spacer) and provide the much needed clearance for the RZR. In my opinion, it is a quality product, well thought out design with quality workmanship. I am very happy I went with Rubber Down rather than some of the other cheaper and more expensive kits.

If you notice in my comments above I specially said a "little" downward pressure. Enough to get the bolts to clear that extra 1/16th of an inch. As far as the cv joints and everything else refered to, I dont think a fraction of an inch is going to impact them that much (IMO)..Still think RD lift is the best bang for buck when it comes to lift kits..........

 

thanks Lynn for the very kind words

 

So let me get this straight, you need to push down on the a-arms beyond what the cv's and ball joints etc can normally travel to get the shock mounted?? That seems crazy to me. You have to put your suspension into a situation where the limiting factor is being overloaded to put in these blocks?? I can understand that once the car is back under its own weight it will sit a little lower to not be in a bind situation, but what about when you jump, and go up a trail and one of the tires lifts off the ground? Your ball joints and/or cv joints are going to be binding and forced beyond what they should be right? How do these parts (axle cv joints, ball joints and tie rod ends) last if the car ever gets driven harder than how grandma would cruise around a parking lot??

Not trying to be an ass, or knock any products.. but i just don't see how this could be a good thing for your suspension. Maybe i am missing something here?? please explain.

G-

 

I can't wait for the answer to this because I was beginning to think I was alone here. :dankk2:

 

I have ran mine like I stole it in the mud, and the dunes, with no problems whatsoever. Jumps, whoops, ect with 27's in the mud, and 4 paddles in the sand. Love it so far. Thanks Rubberdown.

 

i was thinking it was more like a 3/8" off because i thought they said the bolt was about a hole off.. maybe i was imagining that.. my bad. so i guess 1/16th isn't too bad. But keep an eye on your tie rod ends.. they are the limiting factor on the front end dropping down..

g-

 

When all said and done. And logical physics aside. No one is having a problems with tie rod ends or axles and these things are being driven hard. Im not saying its not going to happen.

Besides when the suspention is full out when in a jump, your wheels may be spinning but thiers no load on them. The only resistance your suspention is recieving is the weight of the wheel. Once you wheel contacts the ground the suspension levels out within resonable load and angle. EXAMPLE: when the full weight of a landing is on your suspesion, your suspension will be more horizontal (depending on the speed and height) and that is where your axles have the most strength.

Make sense to me.

 

The suspension as far as I see it on these machines, being a double a-arm has a limited amount of "droop" as its being called like the rear suspension on the polaris sportsman. or the yamaha grizzly, and when you try to let the 2 a-arms drop, there is only so far they can go due to the way they are bolted to the frame AND the hubs and the length of the axles, this limits the amount they drop, not the CV angle or the tie rods that I can tell. And yes, its a "little" pressure to get that shock into the new mounting position.

Listen, Makin' Trax and LSRGreg, I am not forcing anyone to buy a lift kit from me, I get very good feedback and reviews of the kit and I sell a LOT of them. If I ever have any dis-satisfied customers, they are always welcome to return their product, its my policy that I would rather you be happy without my product than pissed off that you are "stuck" with it if its not what you where looking for on your machine. You guys dont want my kit, no problem, there are other kits out there, Makin Trax and LSR, you sell lots of stuff, so you guys obviously arent interested in my kit, maybe you are trying to sell more shocks so you are trying to insult or bash me and my product in the hopes of discouraging a possible future customer so they might buy your product instead. If that is the case, thats pretty low by any standards, if not, then you have my sincerest appologies for my mix up.

Anyways guys, if anyone wants to order a Rubberdown Lift kit, you know where to find me, here or my forum, or the PRC forum or you can shoot me an e-mail, you all have a great Saturday today, it looks pretty nice outside, I'm going to cut the lawn

 

Rubberdown,

I am sorry if you took my post personal. I am in no way attacking your, or for that matter anyone else's kits. I only stated facts from experience. If you think that my post is a stratigic marketing plan to steal your potential customers and sell more shocks, you are on an orbit the space shuttle can't reach. If that were the case, I'd just offer 2" longer shocks. But we haven't and won't.

So, apology accepted! Relax and enjoy. Sorry what I said touched a nerve and you felt it was about you.

 

On all the RZR's that I have personally checked here in the shop, the ball joint is what limits the amount of droop in the suspension. That is with the shocks disconnected. The shock limits the amount of travel when it is installed. So, yes, there is a little added stress to the ball joints. But as RubberDown stated, it is very little pressure that has to be exerted to install the shocks.