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Cold start issues

26K views 62 replies 10 participants last post by  zackhowells92  
#1 ·
went out this morning to get bike started to go on trailer for the park, it was 52 degrees this morning if that matters. 2013 rzr 800 S LE 4 seater. Try to start bike and it fires up and dies right away. Did that 2 more times and wouldn't idle. So now I try it again and I get a sound like a starter just spinning and not engaging, but I can faintly hear the motor puff from the exhaust, almost like a loss of compression all of a sudden. So I stop for minute or 2 and try again and it fires off and then dies. I literally did this for 30 mins before it finally would idle on its own and run. After that, it has started up first time all day and ran good. But for some reason, starting it after it's been sitting overnight is almost impossible
 
#2 ·
Can't say I've had your exact problem but mine would crank up, idle for 5 to 7 seconds and then die. If you got into it and cranked it and gave it a little gas it's almost like it was missing on a cylinder. I bought a fuel pump and am planning on installing soon; however, I had the bed off yesterday and went a head and brought a plug with me to the parts store. The factory champion plug cross referenced to a NGK 4644 for like $2.50. I said what the hell, bought them and gapped to 0.035, filled the spark plug boot with electric grease and it doesn't act cold natured anymore. Starts up and runs like a top. just my 2 cents
 
#4 ·
That might be an expensive hit/miss deal there. On my other machine (rubicon500) when I went to an aftermarket exhaust I did the exhaust from the head back, high flow uni foam 2stg filter and fuel programer and it runs just fine. I bought that exhaust from HMF and they basic "say" if you put the exhaust on you're flowing more throught the engine without adding more fuel. They may just say that to get you to buy the programer but it kind of makes sense to say you might be leaning out the fuel ratio.
 
#6 ·
I would bet you are lean. Everything I've ever read talks about how the 2011-14 800's are really lean from the factory, thats why they say you dont gain much performance from intake, exhaust and programmers. They are pretty close to maxed out from the get go.
 
#8 ·
Thats why I just left my motor stock. Had a buddy with dual exhaust, didnt run as good as my stock stuff, just louder and he had programmer. Needless to say I decided to spend my money on other mods.
 
#12 ·
The plugs will be white. If they are light tan you should be good. Normally way too lean will make the exhaust header glow red also.
 
#14 ·
Well thats a good sign, but its not an exact science.
 
#15 ·
Have you checked the fuel pressure? Also, and its a long shot, but check your oil pressure relief valve. Sometimes they start sticking and dont like to start.
 
#17 · (Edited)
This bolt.Take it out then use a pencil magnet to lift the spring and dowel pin out. Pay attention to which end of the dowel is up. Clean the dowel with some scotch bright pad then re-install. Sometimes it will stick closed causing too high of oil pressure. This can hold the valves open since the 800 uses hydraulic lifters.
 
#18 ·
Actually its a good idea to remove this and clean/inspect it every oil change. If/when it gets stuck it can be darned near impossible to remove. DO NOT try to tap it down to break it loose if it wont come out! That only knocks it deeper and then the only way to remove it is to pull the engine and tear it apart!
 
#20 ·
Then the adventure begins! Have read of people taking the bolt and spring out, holding a rag or bunch of paper towels tightly over the hole then having someone turn the key over. If you are lucky then the oil pressure will be enough to push it out, since the bolt and spring aren't adding pressure. Oh and also it will squirt oil out so it will be messy! If that dont work you can soak it with penitrating oil, wd40, liquid wrench, etc. And try, try again. And worst case pull the engine. But hopefully it will come out with the magnet.
 
#21 ·
Stock PRV parts.

NOTE: Chamfered end of dowel pin is down when installed.
 

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#23 ·
Pretty important. If it wont come all the way out it has carbon and gunk stuck to it. That means it probably isnt regulating the oil pressure correctly. Which could be the cause of your problem.
 
#25 ·
I'll say they do require alot of maintenance, but really no more than most offroad toys. I'm assuming you purchased this used, if that is the case sounds like the previous owner may not have did enough maintenance. Thats where most problems come from in my opinion. When I bought mine used it looked new, so I thought great its should be ready to ride. Well I was wrong, all the bushings were bad, tie-rods shot, wheel bearings were getting loose, brake pads close to needing replaced. This was at 1000 miles/100 hours. The person I got it from was a honest guy and I still believe him now, he said he washed it every ride and greased it after washing. He obviously didnt mistreat it, it hardly had a scratch on it anywhere, but stuff still wears. And if you dont do dilagent maintenance then you are living on borrowed time. Most people dont know to clean the oil prv, its not in the owners manual to do it. Also the air filter is very important to keep clean and alot of people overlook it.
 
#26 ·
Ok here's issue. Dowl pin stuck. Tried magnet and nothing. Had someone else start bike and give it some gas and nothing. I can leave the whole open with no towel or anything and no oil comes out the hole. I can watch oil move around over the top of pin, but nothing is coming out of the hole with it open. What's my next plan of action to get the pin out? Removing the motor is not a option.

That header pipe gets extremely hot and quick. I could just feel the hear pouring off of it
 
#27 ·
Yikes! Only option then would be soak, soak, soak with solvent. Have you tried putting the bolt and spring back in to see if the dowel is bottomed out?
 
#28 ·
After re-reading some old threads on stuck prv's, maybe try putting the spring and bolt back in. Start the engine and let in warm up to operating temp, but I wouldnt rev in more than necessary because who knows how high the oil pressure is with it stuck. Anyhow, with the engine warm the prv bore may expand enough to let the dowel move. If so then get in ther while its hot and try to work it up and down with the magnet until you can get it out.
 
#30 ·
How far did have to push the bolt and spring down to get it started threading? Just trying to determine if the dowel stuck all the way down, half way down or where.