Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

Charging System Problem

47K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  Timber Cruiser  
#1 · (Edited)
I need some help. My 2013 RZR-S has a problem putting out enough voltage to keep the battery charged. I've changed the voltage regulator out thinking that was the problem, but it is still only putting 12.5 volts to the battery at idle, and 12.7 with the engine reved up. My friends RZR puts out 13.5 volts while at idle 14.2 reved up. I can ride about 5 to 6 hours and the battery drains to low and the machine starts cutting out, and then won't have enough power to start.
Out of warranty. Has anybody got any ideas? Thanks
 
#3 ·
It could be a battery starting to get weak on you. On my ATV I had my heated grips accidentally left on and drug the battery down to dead...completely recharged it and kept a trickle charger on it for a week and after about 2 hours of riding the alternator couldn't charge the system fast enough to counter the amp draw of the machine and it started cutting out.

I would suggested pulling the battery...go to the nearest auto parts dealer in your area and have them test the battery to see how it tests...but this is where I would start.
 
#5 ·
Thanks, but I have bought and installed a new battery. Checked the connections. Tested the voltage of the new battery at 13.5 volts, but it also ran down. Then with the help of a friend, trouble shot and thought we determined that the stator measured right, but that the voltage regulator measured low. So changed out the votage regulator, but no luck. Still have the problem. Looking for suggestions. Thanks for any help!
 
#4 ·
Definitely start with the easy stuff. A bad battery may not accept a charge even from a $200 battery charger. Can you put in a known good battery from another machine, or even a riding mower? Repeat your voltage tests and see if they get up to the 13-14 volt range like they should.
Don't go after the charging stator until you try the easy stuff first. Also, make certain that the ground cable to the battery is clean and tight where it bolts to the chassis.
 
#6 ·
Have a friend you can try his regulator on yours? If stator putting out and the wiring system is good, grounds good, then back to the regulator. Double check all grounds and be sure there is bare metal at connections. Another test, use volt meter on fully charged battery and crank engine. If the battery voltage stays above 12 volts, good. If it falls under 12 v. bad battery. Double check it all. Something has been missed. Have seen bad battery cables or broken wires inside of wiring harness cause strange hard to find problems.
 
#9 ·
I would download a service Manuel and go by what Polaris says for testing. Someone had a 2013 in pdf. Have it on my desktop, forgot who had it on this forum. Maybe someone will know and post it.
 
#11 ·
Thanks, I found one at
2013 Polaris Ranger RZR Service Manual PDF Download
$4.95 to download. Has everything in there. A lot to look at.
Checking the system it says to:
1. Using an Inductive Amperage metering device, (set to DC amps) connect to the negative battery cable.
2. With the engine off, key and lights in the on position, the ampmeter should read negative amps (battery discharge)
3. Start the engine. With engne at idle, observe meter readings. ..continued++[/COLOR]+++My question is, Do I connect the ampmeter into the negative battery circuit? I'm not sure what to connect to what. And what is a inductive amperage metering device?
 
#12 ·
Yes, you will disconnect the neg cable. Now place one lead of the tester on the neg cable, and the other test lead to the neg terminal of the battery. Now all charging or discharging activity flows through the test meter and is shown on the needle or display.
A standard shop or consumer VOM (multi meter) can usually only handle 10 amps, so it will blow the internal fuse. Larger car repair shops usually have one. Make some calls to see if they will test your RZR for you.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Larry, an inductive amp meter is a clamp on or clamp around meter. It dose not make electrical contact with the circuit being measured, it uses the magnetic field created by the current flow to measure the amount of current or amps. A regular multi meter with an amps position is connected into the circuit in series however most multi meters can only read to 10 amps so using this method to measure you may smoke the meter or at the least blow the fuse. A clamp around amp meter that can read DC amps is your best bet.Good luck and if you need more info PM me. You should do the charging system test procedure in the manual that will eliminate useless and expensive parts replacement
 
#15 ·
Larry, an inductive amp meter is a clamp on or clamp around meter. It dose not make electrical contact with the circuit being measured, it uses the magnetic field created by the current flow to measure the amount of current or amps. A regular multi meter with an amps position is connected into the circuit in series however most multi meters can only read to 10 amps so using this method to measure you may smoke the meter or at the least blow the fuse. A clamp around amp meter that can read DC amps is your best bet.Good luck and if you need more info PM me
Thanks, that makes sense, really appreciate it.
 
#16 ·
Mike, good input. I only had access to a high capacity inductive meter, and was thinking of Larry trying to detect a very low current draw with his key in the off position. Your idea is better! He should be able to easily spot if it is charging or not, and also see if it is discharging a bunch at idle due to the ECU, fuel pump, tail lights etc.
 
#19 ·
In situations like this I would highly recommend seeking out a buddy with a Fluke DMM w/mV Ampere Clamp. With such DMM and clamp, amps are converted to mV so that readings on the DMM can be taken from very minute to several hundred amps load draw because the meter uses the VDC readout and you just move the decimal place on the meter for number of amps with absolutely no risk to your meter (just stay within the tolerances of the Amp Clamp rating ie. 0-250amps).
 
#22 ·
Well it appears after running all the test outlined in the Service Manual, that
when clamping the amp meter on the negative battery cable the amps go negative,
the voltage coming out of the stator are low, about half of what they are supposed to be at the 3 different rpm tests,
The highest the charging voltage ever gets is about 12.7 volts,
and all three legs of the stator ohm out as shorted to ground.

Looks like a stator replacement is in the near future.
 
#23 ·
UPDATE.....I found out what it was... Turns out the dealer only attached 2 of the 4 cables to the battery. once i installed all 4 cables everything is running great! Thanks to everyone for their help. Reading through this forum saved my Trip to UT last week. Moab and Duck creek would have sucked if my Rzr didn't work!
 
#30 · (Edited)
Factory atv batteries are not known either for their longevity or durability. The battery is a very easy place to start. A good charged battery may read anywhere from 12.5 to 13.2 volts.(this may vary a little.)A load test is the best tell.

I am not sure that polaris is using quality stators or regulators either. My experience with my 2013 last fall was that on its first trip out I was 800 miles from home in remote far northern Ontario, Canada. I was 28 miles from base camp when the regulator and stator blew, leaving me stranded.(IN THE NIGHT)(LIGHTS ON WITH NO ONLY STANDARD EQUIPMENT WITH NO ACCESSORIES TO DRAW AMPS) My rzr 800 only had 4 hrs on it.
I was eventually able to get the machine and equipment out to a dealer 3 hours away. The tech advised me that they had been having trouble with stators on the rangers.

Outside of the warranty work polaris did nothing for me to ease the pain. 12 hrs worth of driving to and from dealer, no machine for a week, walk with an eventual ride to camp, etc. etc. etc.
On the plus side when I got it back I had many wonderful cruises. Some of those small lakes hold some really hungry walleyes (pickerel)

Timber cruiser
just saying