Wow that looks great!

 

Much better than the ugly old school factory look

 

It's actually going to be a lot brighter. The resistor that is on the board right now is sized for the factory red LED's. I have to figure out the correct value and then change it. I would say it will be twice as bright as it is now.

 

WOW I like that! Good job

 

Sweet!! ... now I'll have to come up with a color that will go with my Yellow plastics. :rollfinger:
Ken

 

did you ever get a parts list or anything on this yet

 

how did i miss this one.....yes info when your done sir.

 

X 2

 

looks cool

 

I would also like the info.opcorn:

 

OK, I got all the tools, you can post anytime now.

 

Here's the part number of the LED's.

LB T67C-P2R1-35-Z OSRAM Opto Semiconductors Standard LED - SMD

I still need to figure out the resistor value needed. The factory resistor is too high right now. It still works but the LED's are only burning at about half brightness.

It kinda got put on the back burner with the holidays. I will post up more info after the first of the year.

 

Greg did you get your speedo.

 

opcorn: I think me 2 dumb to do this but its pretty cool!!opcorn:

 

This is for the 2008-2010


Parts list:
LB T67C-P2R1-35-Z OSRAM Opto Semiconductors Standard LED - SMD

QTY 8 - That's it. No resistors needed.

You will need to cut the housing in order to get to the board. remove the cluster from the machine. Remove the rubber ring from the housing. You will want to make a cut about 5/8" from the top inside lip. You can use a Dremel to do this but a hot wire cutter works best. You can find them at most hobby stores. It is used to cut Styrofoam.

Once cut, remove the top section to get to the gauge face. You will need to remove the needle by pulling straight up on it. Make sure to not move it from zero. Once the needle is removed you can peel the face away. You will then see four torx head screws. Remove them and the assembly will slide out of the bottom section of the housing. It may be a little tight because of the seals on the pins.

Now flip over the board and you will see two more torx head screws near the middle. Remove them and the white plastic front will now come off. Be very careful not to lose the LCD display rubber connector.

You are now ready to replace the LED's on the board. If you look closely at the LED's you will notice one corner has a notch. Be sure to make note of which way this notch faces.

Remove and replace one LED at a time. Use a fine point soldering iron for this. Do not remove the center LED for the needle, leave this one alone.

Once all LED's are replace you will need to make a small jumper wire for three locations.

These are used to jumper the resistors. You can remove the resistors or just leave them in place and use the jumper wires to bridge them.

Once everything is done reassemble the board in the reverse order that it was taken apart.

Before gluing the housing back together, place it back into the RZR to make sure everything sill works. Once you verify everything still works you will need to glue the housing back together with the glue of your choice. Once glued back together put the rubber ring back on. The ring will cover your cut.

That's it! Now you have a blue cluster.

 

You obviously know the next question.
1. How do I get the custom message in the display?
2. Do you still see all the other thing like odometer and trip in the display now that there is a custom piece there?

Great post.

 

Did that just for our display RZR.

Your display will work as normal.

 

But is there any way to have that along with the normal display?

 

looks very cool!

 

but with the needle led being left alone...will it still be red?

 

There are three reasons for leaving it red. I changed to blue at first but it was hard to see against the background. This is because the voltage cannot be changed on this LED, so it did not light at full brightness. The needle has red/orange paint applied to the underside, so blue did not show up well at all. Now the most important - this LED is controlled by the ECU. This means that the resistor is not on the board, but in the ECU, and cannot be changed. This LED also serves as a warning light that flashes when the RZR gets hot. So considering all of those factors, I feel it is best to leave it alone.

 

Well, i was about to say your one step ahead of me, but then i don't have the skill to do this so that probably adds a few more steps. I would love to see it in white!

 

COME ON!!!! Hook us up! In box ready to ship, HOW MUCH? I understand you dont want to be responcible but DGAF!! I want one!!!! At least give us a part number for the other colors and a pic of that white. PM me. I HAVE TO HAVE!!!

 

SOOOO, any other word on this? I also would like to know more info. BTW, good write-up on the "how to" but I would like to ask more info about this. Would you be open for some additional information requests?

 

I would be glad to answer any more questions you might have.

 

sweet gregg very nice write up ordering my parts today!!!!!!!

 

hmmm I'm not sure IF I can do it but I may just try it!!! My speedo doesnt work half the time anyway.

 

I've been reading and re-reading this thread ever since Greg started it and often thought about how much nicer a different color gage cluster would look - long story short, after a buddy of mine flipped his sportsman and his gage busted wide open, I got a good look at the inside components and figured I'd be able to handle this project... boredom and lack of any rzr mods for awhile, I finally went for it and switched out the Red LEDs for some White ones. Personally I think it looks a lot better.

Gotta thank to Greg for answering all my questions, and for posting up these instructions to begin with. int:

 

The white is sexy. :clap:

Glad everything worked out for you.