Prepare for lots of driveline noise and having to let off at 50 because the 16 clutch has issues.

Probably should go ahead and relocate your voltage regulator and while your at it go ahead and buy a timing chain tensioner.

Welcome to RZR! I'm right there with ya.

 

What clutch problems are you referencing? I may have overlooked a thread...

 

Run it in low for the first few hours and avoid WOT. This lets the belt break in good and the motor too.

 

ive always heat cycled mine several times, then ran it like I stole it.

 

No clutch issues on my 2016. 0 to 70+ in a blink. However, I only get to within about 1000 rpms from the limiter in high range. My elevation is (6500+ft).

I agree with the driveline noise and vibration in low range though!

 

break it in like you are going to drive it any other time. if you are going to race it or rip around the trails then by all means break it in like that. if you are going to putt around the yard then do that, not sure why you would putt around the yard with a 1000 xp tho. lol

 

The only time I have acceleration issues with mine is when my intake screen gets clogged with mud or wet sand. Which is always...

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

OP, the more research you do on this topic the more you'll fine it's just like the "what oil" threads. Many different opinions, no one right answer.

I feel its important to put her through the whole RPM range while breaking it in. start in low for a few miles then throw her in high and do 0-WOT runs, don't sustain any RPM for any length of time. avoid idling. do runs for 15-20 min then let it cool down. Repeat. my opinion...

 

Bought my 2016XP and unloaded it and drove the piss out of it and never had no problems but only put 144 miles on it.

 

Found these engines need the oil changed after a couple good hours breaking it in.
Find a good oil and change it atleast twice in the first 400 miles is my recommendation.

 

I ran low range for ~20 minutes (basically while the rest of the group unloaded from the trailers and geared up), then a break, then high range with varying throttle for a total of 90 miles, with 3 or so breaks to grab a drink in that stretch. No issues since. I replaced the timing chain tensioner with the Alba unit at around 200 miles as a preventative measure.

The bigger issue IMO is breaking in the belt appropriately, meaning let it get to temp then cool back down a little bit. Watch a video or two on how your clutches work so you understand what will shred a belt. Before you ride, grease everything and check your air filter in the bed to make sure it's firmly attached, add a hose clamp or T-bolt if you feel your riding style could dislodge the air filter from the intake tube.

 

What does the owners manual say?

 

Starts out ;
The break-in period for your new POLARIS vehicle is the first 25 hours of operation, or the time it takes to use the first two tanks full of gasoline.
Clutch and drive belt break-in periods vary depending on operating conditions.

STANDARD BREAK-IN;
Drive at slower speeds for the first 50 miles of operation. Carry only light loads. Avoid aggressive acceleration, high-speed operation and prolonged operation at a specific RPM during this period.

So yeah leaves alot to be interpreted ...

 

I think I'd follow Polaris engineers' opinion instead of random forum users

 

Don't believe I've ever read a thread relating engine problems to in-proper break it.

Belts yes, engines no.

 

My dealer told me drive it like I stole it. You need to cycle the shocks all the way otherwise if you barely cycle them they will barely cycle their whole life. Nowadays engines do not need to be broke in. Do you break in a brand new vehicle off the dealership when you buy a car. NOPE.

You will have to change the oil at 25 hours which is sooner than normal but drive it hard to break it in.

 

"Starts out ;
The break-in period for your new POLARIS vehicle is the first 25 hours of operation, or the time it takes to use the first two tanks full of gasoline.
Clutch and drive belt break-in periods vary depending on operating conditions.

STANDARD BREAK-IN;
Drive at slower speeds for the first 50 miles of operation. Carry only light loads. Avoid aggressive acceleration, high-speed operation and prolonged operation at a specific RPM during this period."



I followed the book. I have 3600 miles in a year on my stock belt and it looks like I can put on another 3500 miles. I have a friend that has 6K miles and has no issues on his belt. They didn't just put that in the manual to just jack with you. They had a reason.
The other reason I would bet my belt looks good is I don't ride it like I stole it. I ride it like a sane person that wants to keep his extra money to do other things rather than throw them at Polaris for more parts.

 

I am with Roger Lee on this one. If you do have a engine or something big go they might look into computer which from what I have heard can tell if you ran it like you stole it. If your dealer told you that you might be ok. I have purchased many vehicles and toys new and have never had anyone tell me to break it in like that. I do break in my new cars and trucks also by the way.

 

To "Break it in like you stole it", is to NOT break it in. And just run it.

If it were to eat a piston skirt, I would suspect Polaris might deny warranty.

 

i gotta ask. is there an issue with the timing chain tensioner? i see people are changing them. 2 miles on mine. unfortunatly im in north carolina working so it wil be a few weeks before i get to see it again. oh and we got 40" of snow in the last ten days back home....

Go home mother nature. Your drunk...

 

Most of the time if you drive your Polaris product like a sane person and do things like break ins as they suggest you don't have issues. Do things outside what is recommended or fail to do good research on a modification and it may cost you bucks out of pocket and make Polaris bottom line very happy. $$$

Polaris like many engine aircraft or auto companies spent millions on research and design. They wrote things in the manuals for a particular reason. Staying within those guidelines has some benefits.
I don't have an issue with mods or racing or anything of the sort. Just people doing things and then blaming the company that it didn't hold up to their abuse or riding style. It becomes your cross to bear and your 401 retirement money to fix it.

I'm a Rotax aircraft engine Heavy Maint. facility (the only one in AZ) and an instructor so I get to see all kinds of these things. The people that don't follow the manuals and or fails to read them and then listens to Joe next door's advice makes me a great salary every year not to mention making money for Rotax.

Polaris, Chevy, Ford, Can-Am , ect.... is no different.

In my previous life part of my job was a GM trained driving instructor for Fire and Police. They taught me to use the vehicle not abuse it. There is a fine line.

 

"i gotta ask. is there an issue with the timing chain tensioner?"

The stock tensioner used more oil pressure to help tension and that's why some get the rattle at start up until the oil pressure comes fully up. The aftermarket tensioners tend to use constant spring pressure so there is no waiting for oil pressure and no rattle. This is one modification I did do after waiting and watching others for a year to make sure there were no issues.
Many times it's not good to be first in line.

 

How much is this after market tensioner? also seen people relocating the voltage regulator. what is the reasoning behind this?

 

" also seen people relocating the voltage regulator. what is the reasoning behind this?"

A couple of things. Because it is located just under and behind the drivers seat in the engine compartment it is more susceptible to water. Driving and splashing water isn't a problem. Some here use there Razors as part time submarines and this causes corrosion and possible leakage around the VR body. This location probably isn't the best for cooling air circulation either. Others have added too much power drawing electronics which cause internal heat and cooks them.

I did relocate mine up high on the back of the passenger seat in the engine compartment. Better airflow for heat dissipation and up out of the normal water crossings. There is plenty of wire already on the VR.

You may never have an issue provided you don't put it into submarine service all the time and don't overload the Razor with electronics without knowing what all your accumulated power drawing electronics add up to in continuous amperage pull.

I haven't seen a single person on the forums add up all the continuous current draw on their razor that have had all these failures. We di it in aircraft all the time. It's a must especially if a certain group has more failures than another.

If you want to help protect your VR from water and moisture corrosion and intrusion spray it good with Boeing T-9 and anything else that might corrode. (Dielectric grease in all the plugs) This is what this product was made for. I used to MFG dive compressors. They were always in saltwater. People who kept their units sprayed never had corrosion issues or internal water damage. Remember the old saying: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

My last XP1K was still on the original belt at 1800+ miles. I drive it around easily for a few miles, then progressively ran it harder and harder. I did this till 25 hours then changed all the fluids with the Polaris severe duty stuff just for warranty purposes. After the fluids change I took it to the sand dunes and ran it like it was meant to be...not stupidly. They program enough power management into the ECM to protect it for the most part. As stated earlier, with roller cams and such, a short break-in to seat the rings and such is all that's really necessary. The belt break-in is probably the most critical process you'll have to do if you want it to serve you well.