If you want anything covered under warranty, I would use Polaris oil and follow the user manual.

whether or not that is the best break in procedure or not could be debated forever.

 

The conventional wisdom on this issue has shifted over time. Used to be, they wanted you to break the engine in on non-detergent, straight-weight oil, and then switch-over to multi-grade detergent. The Continental and Lycoming Aircraft Engine factories followed this procedure for years (may still, I don't know). They wanted you to run the non-detergent for the first 50 hours before switching-over to the detergent. Lycoming and Continental aircraft engines run chrome rings in Nikasil liners, and the rings would not break-in and "seat" properly using just the detergent oil from first start-up. Moving forward in time, I notice that, nowadays, virtually all of the high-end and exotic new cars come with multi-grade synthetic oil, straight from the factory, and they want you to break the engine in with, and continue using, the same oil going forward. I can only surmise that the modern oil-producers have come up with compounds in their additive packages that promote ring break-in while still using multi-grade synthetic oils.

In light of the foregoing, if I was experiencing questionable ring-sealing and/or oil-consumption on my new, or low-mileage, RZR, I would be tempted to replace the synthetic-oil with straight-weight non-detergent and run it for awhile; it couldn't hurt, and it just might solve the ring-sealing problem. My two-bits..........

Cheers

 

I have lab results coming back on the polaris break in oil shortly on my 1000. I do work for Driven Racing Oil and we are using my 1000 to do a lot of testing with. Polaris has to stand by there warrently as long as you are running the same viscosity as what they recommend there is a goverment rule on this. I do know after doing some testing that the polaris motor oil is not a good oil for protection and performance. Once i get done with the brake in time on my motor we will be going to the dyno with MX1, Polaris Oil, XP7, and another performance oil to test and see what makes the most power. Will be at the Sand Sport Show for anyone that has questions.

 

Also to help with your question i Drained my oil out the day i brought it home and put BR30 in it. I have seen a lot of crazy stuff with motors and not being broke in right. Only product i trust before i even started working here. Used to work at Evernham Motorsports Engine shop and we had a lot of problems till we switched to the gibbs stuff. Not trying to sell you on it just my opinion.

 

I'm dropping mine and putting in the BR oil. What was your break in procedure with the BR30? How long or how many miles did you leave it in? And what did you put in for oil after? Thx.

 

Polaris motors have a good track record on durability if left stock, just put a couple of smart hours on it, meaning drive it easy for the first 10 minutes to let it build up heat, shut it off for 20 minutes and repeat 2-3 times. Then warm it up and drive it fairly normal but don't hold it at any sustained speed, you can hammer it for a few seconds then back off and go through the rpm range with short blast. Example: a quick blast from 10mph - 40 mph then cruise for a minute and go from 40-60mph then back down to 20 mph and cruise for a minute etc. etc...if you can get on asphalt where you can get good traction you can "load the engine" by going from a slow roll to full throttle for a few seconds, do that a few times, its hard to really load the engine on dirt because the tires just spin and wont really put any stress on it. I personally dont agree with the whole dump the oil immediately theory, but DO CHANGE THE OIL at half of the hours the manual says, if polaris says 20 hours for the first oil change, do it at 10 hrs, then do each oil change a little sooner than recommended and you'll be fine.

 

agree totally that there oil is okay. If you are looking to get the most power and best protection for the motor then you need to look for something else. With my 800s i broke it in on Polaris oil and even did the first oil change on polaris oil. Rode for 10hrs on polaris stuff check the oil it was really dirty and had broke down. So i changed it to MX1 and changed to Wix filter and after 50 more hrs the oil still looked brand new. After sending polaris oil to the lab after 10 hrs and then MX1 after 50hrs you wouldnt believe the what happen to the polaris oil and how the MX1 held up. I am not a vendor on here so i am not trying to sell anyone anything just stating the facts of what i have learned so far. Still testing and trying new things.

 

The break-in period for a RZR/RZRS is 25-hours.
I'm not sure what it is with the XPs nor the 1K's.

Is it still 25-hours?

That's a long time in my world of riding where we go on a ride and the engine-hour-meter only shows about 4-5 hours of clock time per day.

 

Not sure on the 1k, but the XP900 was 25 hours too.

 

If you guys would like more information on our products please get a hold of tim/swingarm1. He is a dealer and I keep him updated with all the data we our collecting on these motors and the different oils.

 

I will run the 25-30 hrs on the BR30 and then I will switch to MX1.

 

Also you can just drop the oil cold put in the BR30 and then let it warm up and be fine. When we do testing we will change the oil to BR30 and run it for a little then drain it and replace it with BR30. Pretty much flush the system but this is just for testing.

 

I've been around the motorsports industry for a long time. There's always been companies selling a magical oil or additive that will work miracles. The claims are big but in reality they offer very little hard data to back it up. I remember when you had to add Marvel Mystery oil to your small block or it would self destruct in short order. It's kinda like the snake oil sold for chronic pain, plays on peoples fears and ignorance. Polaris has great engineers that spend a lot of time to get this right. I'd go with their recommendations.

tpollock33, for not being a vendor you sure are doing a lot of selling.......

 

..........tpollock33, for not being a vendor you sure are doing a lot of selling.......

Ya, Steve, I noticed that too. Seems like the snake-oil salesmen are ALWAYS lurking close at hand, looking for ANY opportunity to peddle their wares.....LOL.

Cheers

 

Would you say running the straight BR would be fine. Its a 50 weight so it should?

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BR30 is the way to go you can talk to swingarm (Tim)/ Holz or Kroyer Racing Engines for the reason why. Has to do with SAE regulations.

 

I talked to Matt at Holz today, he said I can use the straight BR and be good. I know it's a 50 weight and polaris uses 50 weight oil, even tho I,ve heard the polaris weight is closer to a 40 weight. It's still warm where I live too. I'm gonna give it a try. I'm pretty sure last time I got break in oil from Holz it was the BR 50 weight.

 

Glad you got a hold of them and they helped you out.

 

I can't find any joe gibbs oil here in canada but I did find a break in oil made by royal purple but it is a 10w30 oil. Anyone know if that would be fine ?

 

Where you at in canada and I can tell you where to buy at?

 

I'm in Sudbury ontario


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Performance improvements in barrie, on is closes dealer to you. Royal purple 10w30 will be a little thin and you would be better off with the polaris stuff that comes stock in the machine then using it.

 

Any other suggestions of oils ? I'd rather not run the synthetic stuff. Any other companies make break in oil ?


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Manual says 25 hrs for first oil change.

 

25 hours Or the first month

 

I've had a few rzr's over the years, 2-RZR S, 2-XP900's, and now my 1000. I always break them in a little on the aggressive side, but not stupid. always run through a few good heat cycles and then a few short wide open blast and always make sure my motor is warmed up before driving hard. But back to the oil issue, just use the factory oil, I always change it early, especially the first oil change (around 15 hrs) I think 25 is too long for the first change, unless maybe your never gonna run it over 4000 rpm's...lol. Polaris has obviously built a good product, some of you hard core racers might think otherwise, but for most consumers the 1000 is all the car anyone will need or use. Polaris does not want you to blow up their motor, and they have the technology and money to make their oil as good as it needs to be, or to use whatever they think is the best oil for this motor. Everyone has a favorite oil, and as long as it's a good oil I'm sure it will be fine, I use Mobil-1 in my Harley's, my performance boat and all my vehicles, and if I couldn't find Polaris oil I would use it in the XP also. The big picture is, polaris wants their motors to last, it's good for business...lol.

 

Honestly don't see anything in those engines what need to be break in.
And they will not fill the new engines with synthetic oil, if some break in period is needed. IMO
milos

 

What gets confusing is when Polaris says to change the break in engine oil at 25 hours or 1 month?? So if I only put 2 hours on the engine and let it sit for the remainder of the first month, I should change the oil with just 2 hours on it??

 

LOL exactly! Mine is 3 months old but has also only been ridden 4 or 5 days. The first month I was on vacation, guess just having it sitting in my garage must have broken in the motor! I'm going by hours or miles instead.

I have heard everything now.

Change oil immediately,
Wait longer than suggested break in period because they are not all breaking in fully,
Run the break in period to be safe then get rid of that polaris oil.

This is what alba was suggesting and I think a few others have agreed this is a good way to go. Polaris RZR oil change kit (Get that Polaris oil out of your RZR).

I just bought some but have not changed the factory oil yet. I'll probably do it after this weeknds ride which will put me around the suggested break-in period hours wise. I believe alba says this stuff is thicker than polaris oil yet it is only rated as a 10-40?

I'm a little worried about warranty, dealer told me I must have them do the first service, but I'm not sure that is legal and will probably do it myself anyways. Then they told me after that I can do it myself but I need to save receipts. Well I get my oil under the table from a friend of a friend that works for maxima, so there are no receipts for the oil (just the filter).

Any suggestions?

 

All oils must meet a specific viscosity range for them to be classified as a certain weight oil. Some oils maybe on the thinner end of that range and others maybe be on the higher end. However, IMO, that does not matter as much as how much the oil will shear during use.

While I have no hard proof, I have read more than once that the polaris 40 and 50 weight oils( manufactured by Lubrication technologies in MN) shears pretty fast.
I don't believe that any Poo engine will suffer failure while using polaris oil with proper OCI, but I do believe there is much better oils on the market for less $$$ than the polaris oil.

I'm not saying don't use polaris oil, you have to use whatever makes you sleep well at night.

Also, if you are unsure of what is the best way to break in an engine, follow the engine builders advice. On brand new RZR's that would be the owners manual. Many people have their own opinions on how to break in an engine, but how do you know they are right?

P.s. The dealer or manufacturer cannot force you to pay them for service. That's illegal.