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Better then Anti-Seize??

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7.7K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  Denver  
#1 ·
We use Anti-Seize to prevent surfaces rusting together in several areas of our machines. Latest suggestion is to use on the secondary clutch splines. Got to wondering if there is not a better product to use today. Thinking of the dried teflon that is on some clutch puller threads. It works great, never comes off and last for much abuse. Maybe there is some thing else. This is what we need.

Stops metal from rusting.
Easy to use for DIY.
When dry does not attract dust, dirt etc.

Anyone know about the dry teflon? Or what is your suggest??
 
#5 ·
Anti-Seize is great but not for all applications. 89sandman, tell us more about the liquid teflon. What do you use it for?

As for others, do you really want to risk anti-seize getting on your clutch surfaces and belt? We now have see two secondary clutches that have rusted on the transmission shafts. To prevent that we need a product to place on the shaft to keep them from rusting. Anti-Seize in that application will most likely cause a lot more problems then it fixes. Imagine trying to get all traces of anti-seize off of a belt and clutch surfaces and internals. Might as well throw them all away and buy new. There has to be a better answer.

Looking for a product that can be applied as a liquid, then dried to fasten it to shafts that will not fly off and contaminate other areas.

RZR Joe, maybe you need to rethink your answer.
 
#6 ·
I've used anti-seize on the splines of my secondary clutch since the first time I took it off, never found a trace on the sheaves or belt. Don't go gobbing it on there all willy nilly, a little goes a long way, but it's perfectly suitable for the application.
 
#8 ·
You are experienced, thinking of all the newbies and there lack of expreiace thinking "if a little is good, then a little more must be better" and all the problems they will encounter. I know there is a product that is used on clutch puller threads that is a teflon based and looks like it was heat shrunk on. Very effective and does not wear off with lots of use. If we can find that product then we all have a real winner. I am very experienced with years of mechanical background, I hesitant using Anti-Seize in that application because I have also see the aftermath of it getting in the wrong place. The down side is huge and very expensive. We can do better with a better product.
 
#9 ·
Why not just teach the newbies the proper use of the readily available and commonly used product?

I just feel you're trying to re-invent the wheel here, and practicality quickly takes a back seat. This is probably what you're thinking of:

But that's not something that anyone is going to consider for a weekend garage project, nor is it cost or time effective.

There's also these ( and several other variants ), that would be slightly more practical, but I've still never seen them on the shelf at the local auto parts store, and I'm not certain of their longevity under use:


 
#10 ·
#11 ·
That falls into the same category as the aerosols I linked above... I'm not certain how that's going to hold up during use in the application. Teflon lube wears off over time during use, I don't think most people pull their secondary off often enough to continually reapply a dry film lubricant. Anti seize paste will remain effective for years on those splines.
 
#12 ·
There must not be any wear between the secondary and the shaft or rust would not form to cause then to seize. What I like is it is cheap, many uses and very easy to get a hold of. Something one could use for many uses as a DIY. Once sprayed on it dries. Not gong to migrate out to belt etc. This is something I will use without worry of clutch issues. Think I will order it.
 
#13 ·
This is a thread sealant but I use it in any application that I would use antiseize in where it contacts liquid. It dries to a nonsticky film and does not dilute when exposed to liquids. Works perfect for splines where you don't want to attract grit and grime. Also makes a water tight seal to keep contaminates out. Have been using this for decades.

 
#14 · (Edited)
I have never used any anti- seize or anything in that area ...and I have never had a problem.

The Polaris manual doesn't recommend it ... most people dont use it ..not a common problem. Especially if you inspect and clean you clutches like you should .

I do wire brush out the splines and scotch bright the shaft if needed ....problem solved
 
#15 ·
Thanks 89sandman for you sharing with the paste. I was wondering how it would work in other areas. Think I will add it to my tool box.

Max H, this seems to be a newer problem just now showing up on turbos. We have had two on this forum that had major problems getting the secondary off. One was a aftermarket, think he had to cut it off, never heard for sure. The second was OEM. He did get it off and found it was rusted on. An ounce of prevention as they say. Secondary are not cheap.
 
#20 ·
Splines on the trans input shaft, which mate up with the helix in the secondary clutch:

My alignment tool is covering them, but it was the handiest pic I have:
Image


This was a recent thread where the OP had it stuck on:
 
#24 ·
Yeah, I’ve been using it on all of my suspension and steering heim joints. Also on my shocks and A-arm Pivot points to stop squeaks. It works great to stop the squeaks. It’s the best and longest lasting dry lube that I’ve used for that purpose and I’ve tried about everything.

I’m not sure what the propellant is, but when you spray it , it’s very thin and drys leaving a slick chalky white residue of Teflon behind.

Not sure how well it would work as an anti seize on the clutch splines but I’m sure it would be better than nothing at all.
 
#26 ·
Was going to make some stupid comment about staying out of the mudholes but decided to just keep my trap shut, I might meet some of you all in person someday... :eek: :ROFLMAO:
Seriously, where I ride dust is the problem. I've never had a problem popping the secondary off. I do realize where some people ride staying dry is not an option.

We had an aerosol product on the C-130, was a spray dry graphite lube. Instructions said to bake it on but oven was usually unavailable for flap control shafts, too long. Stuff worked well, similar is available at Walmart and doesn't need baked, just allowed to dry. I think it stays on better than the PTFE teflon spray lube under heat or high pressure conditions, but that's just my opinion. I use the regular anti-seize on inboard axle splines but that's about all.