Search results for query: beadlock

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Walker Evans.
Stock offset,all silver so no chips or scratches show and are a one piece machined wheel.

 

I own multiple sets currently across a couple different machines. Have owned dozens of sets since about 2008. You can’t go wrong with Walker Evans, STI, Raceline, Fuel, Hiper, Douglas, or ITP. Even the Tusk brand wheels from Rocky Mountain are a good option. Just stay away from cheap eBay stuff that sounds or is priced too good to be true. It probably is. Stick with a well known brand of wheel and you shouldn’t have any issues.

 

I had the STI HD5's and replaced them with the Tusk Wasatch Beadlocks. The Tusk's are a much beefier wheel. Would buy another set for sure.

 

I've got a set of he sti hd a1's and the system 3 sb5's and they are both nice. I like the system 3's aesthetics better.

 

I love my method beadlocks I would highly recommend them

 

I'd recommend looking at all the known brands and pick a style you like that has 6+1 or 5+2 offset unless you want a narrower wheel.

We can't choose your wheel. Everyone has run every known brand and typically like what they choose.

I went with the fuel anza wheels as I liked the style the most, they match my project truck...and they aren't the method wheels many choose.

Second choice would be the walker evans. I don't really like any other style but that's just me. I looked at every wheel in a 5+2 in 15" for our bolt pattern.

The fuel wheels are on the heavy side if that's a concern. Method has one of the lightest and strongest wheels made...i don't know where all the others fall.

 

Raceline, Method, I'm running Tusks on my trail and they're good. I especially like the, 5/16" grade 8 bolts on the rings.

 

Not only that, but my Tusk Wasatch's have double the number of holes on the wheel vs on the rings. Worked out well when I got one cross threaded. I just moved over to the other set of holes.

I swapped out the original bolts for some 316 stainless steel ones. Looks better as they stay bright.

 

The only issue I had with the Racelines was the dumb lug nut key that goes along with it. It would barely fit the the lug hole. It was often get stuck in there and I have to beat it out. I am now Running Methods and love them.

 

I’m running some Walker Evans Legend 2 15x6 5+1s on my Turbo S right now with 34s that I’m able to use the factory lug nuts with. First set of aftermarket beadlocks I’ve even owned that I could do that with.. it’s kind of nice not having to mess with a splined lug key.

 

System 3 6+1 offset - Happy so far.

 

STI beadlocks do not have an extra set of beadlock ring bolt holes. At least not any of the sets I’ve owned. I don’t re torque my beadlock ring bolts unless I have a reason to think they need it. Beadlocks don’t generally give much trouble once you get your tires mounted, providing you do it correctly.

 

I would never use stainless bolts on a beadlock ring application. They are like cheese. Just my opinion, and everybody has one. One thing that’s not opinion is that anti seize is a must for ring bolts. Tell your brother to have fun changing tires when his get worn.
I could see the “pressure” being an issue when pertaining to an on road wheel and tire setup. But, I don’t run more than 8 psi in any rzr/ranger tires I own. I wouldn’t worry about it, personally. At 30-40 psi, maybe. But one bolt snapping off is not going to allow air pressure to escape. You’ve gotta loosen 3-4 bolts, usually, before a 14-15” beadlock will start losing any air at these pressures.
My dirt tires only see lower speed crawling and technical trails, and my sand tires work best for me at 8 psi.